Serpent F110 Manual

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THE BUILD

STARTS

NOW

The F110-13 is in stores now and three kits have made

their way to my door. One is already on my work bench being built, for

testing and to finish off the F-1 series here in Victoria, Australia. The

following will detail the build as they appear in step form in the manual.

I have been waiting for over a year now, for the release of the F-110 but

SERPENT held off the release to do extensive testing to make sure the F1

was as near perfect as could be. Below is a short wrap up of the past year

for the F-110

SERPENT HERITAGE:

Serpent started developing and manufacturing RC

cars in the Netherlands in 1980, and has

expanded its RC car program ever since!

Serpent has won multiple World Championships,

as well as European, American and Asian

Championship titles. Michael Salven is head of

design for all on road Serpent cars.

Michael has been racing all his life, and has won

World and European Championship titles, as well

as many German national titles. His experience

and knowledge has also been used to design this

new Serpent F110 car, as the Serpent entry into

the growing 1/10 Formula one class. Michael has

worked together with Nacho Lopez and a number

of test-drivers like Jan Asmer and Ludovic Leflon

and a number of Asian drivers with Team-driver

Yuya Sahahsi heading the team.

Michael Salven

RACING:

Serpent team driver Jan Asmer from Germany has raced the Serpent F110 proto-

type since the 2nd round of the ETS championship, and has won the 2012-2013 ETS

title. The F110 prototype was also used at the TITC in Thailand with great success,

and Team-driver Yuya Sahahsi won a recent F1 race in Japan with the almost final

production version of the F110 car.

The F110-13 and all your SERPENT needs can be

sourced from

www.walterrchobby.com.au

the AUSTRALIAN

distributor for SERPENT.

“LET’S BUILD THIS WEAPON”

The F110-13 Manual is to be downloaded from the

SERPENT web page, easily read with full colour pictures of the processes

you’re undertaking.

I have built all the SERPENT Off Road Range 811T, 811B, 811Be and

never have I come across any mishaps with installing or with any parts

supplied in their kits, Top Quality___ that’s it, and after opening the box

that’s exactly what I got - QUALITY!!!!

The first process was to CA glue around all the edges of the CF (carbon

fibre) to prevent it from possibly splitting I found the best way was to

pour a dab of the CA glue on to a piece of plastic cut off the parts frame,

using the round end and run along the side of the CF, I coated it twice.

After letting it dry completely it was time to start putting it together.

The next step was to start with the front suspension components.

There are 3 different height spacers 1, 2 and 4mm this will give you a

various range of ride heights, easy to adjust simply by loosening the two

holding screws removing or adding spacers then re-tighten

Servo brace - the two bottom servo tabs of your servo need to be

removed I cut them off with a hack saw then smoothed it off with the

dremal.

When fitting the king pin use a 1.5mm tool in the end of the king pin and

screw into the steering block, the manual doesn’t mention this, don’t want

you using pliers or similar as this will damage the pin and bind the spring

movement.

#HINT: I FOUND THAT TRYING TO FIT THE SPRING AND E-CLIP NEAR

IMPOSSIBLE. FOLLOW STEPS IN MANUAL WHEN YOU GET TO THE STEP

FOR FITTING THE FRONT SPRING: REMOVE THE KING PIN FIT THE E-CLIP

THEN SPRING, FEED THE KING PIN THROUGH THE LOWER ARM BALL AND

SCREW BACK INTO THE STEERING BLOCK ELIMINATES A LOT OF

PAINFUL FAILURES, NO LOST E-CLIPS OR SPRINGS.

Next is the rear pod and wing, I attached the factory wing for the build

but I’ll use the 3 Racing FGX wings as they were laying around may as

well put them to use as they fit, just need to place an extra 3mm spacer

so the wing mount clears the rear wing CF mounting brace

Above: Rear pod and factory wing ready to fit to chassis.

Below: fitted with the now standard pivot ball system.

The rear axle supports for the top deck and side spring installations were

next on the agenda. The side springs are to be set at approximately 3mm

down as that is where mine worked well. The manual has them tight

against the top plate.

# HINT: TURN THE CHASSIS OVER AND LOOK FLAT ALONG THE

CHASSIS BASE IF THE POD ISN'T LEVEL ADJUST SCREWS SO THEY

LEVEL THE POD