Ramsey Electronics UAM2 Guía de instalación

UAM2• 1

Universal Audio

Amplifier

Ramsey Electronics Model No. UAM2

•Whopping 20W output at 18V.

•Runs on 8V to 18V DC.

•SNR: 102dB at 15W into 8Ω, 18V

95dB at 10W into 4Ω, 12V

•THD + N: 1% at 15W into 8Ω, 18V

.2% at 10W into 4Ω, 12V

•Square board for screw mounting, or circular “break out” board for

attaching directly to speaker magnet.

•Line level input

•Adjustable gain: 12dB, 18dB, 23.6dB, 32dB

•Remote shutdown input

Need more audio “punch” for a project? Build your own

powered speaker or juice up that audio kit with this high quality

audio amp. Maximum 20 Watt screaming output for any

application; lower gain settings with the change of a jumper.

UAM2•2

PARTIAL LIST OF AVAILABLE KITS:

RAMSEY TRANSMITTER KITS

• FM10A, FM25B FM Stereo Transmitters

• AM1, AM25 Transmitter

RAMSEY RECEIVER KITS

• FR1 FM Broadcast Receiver

• AR1 Aircraft Band Receiver

• SR2 Shortwave Receiver

• AA7 Active Antenna

• SC1 Shortwave Converter

RAMSEY HOBBY KITS

• SG7 Personal Speed Radar

• SS70A Speech Scrambler/

Descrambler

• TT1 Telephone Recorder

• SP1 Speakerphone

• MD3 Microwave Motion Detector

• PH14 Peak hold Meter

• LC1 Inductance-Capacitance Meter

RAMSEY AMATEUR RADIO KITS

• HR Series HF All Mode Receivers

• DDF1 Doppler Direction Finder Kit

• QRP Series HF CW Transmitters

• CW7 CW Keyer

• QRP Power Amplifiers

RAMSEY MINI-KITS

Many other kits are available for hobby, school, scouts and just plain FUN. New

kits are always under development. Write or call for our free Ramsey catalog.

UAM2 Universal Audio Amp

Ramsey Electronics publication No. UAM2 Rev. 1.1

October 2003

written permission of Ramsey Electronics, Inc. Printed in the United States of America.

UAM2• 3

Universal Audio

Amplifier

Ramsey Publication No. UAM2

Manual Price Only $5.00

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction to the UAM2.................................. 4

UAM2 Circuit Description.................................. 4

“Learn-As-You-Build” Kit Assembly ...................6

Parts List........................................................... 8

Assembly Steps................................................. 9

Setup and Testing ........................................... 11

Troubleshooting Guide.....................................11

UAM2 Parts Layout Diagram........................... 13

UAM2 Schematic.............................................13

Ramsey Kit Warranty.......................................15

KITASSEMBLY

AND INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR

RAMSEY ELECTRONICS, INC.

590 Fishers Station Drive

Victor, New York 14564

Phone (585) 924-4560

Fax (585) 924-4555

www.ramseykits.com

UAM2•4

INTRODUCTION

The UAM2 is a small, high quality audio amplifier that you can plug any line

level source into and get a whopping 20W out! So if you want, you can plug

your portable cd player in and run your big ol’ speaker! The board is made so

that you can mount it directly onto the back of a speaker or just use it as is

with the mounting holes. It puts out great quality sound with lots of power and

the active parts are all surface mount! You’ll be amazed when you fire it up,

20W is going through a tiny TSSOP IC, and it doesn’t even get warm. There

are 4 gain settings giving you a rough volume adjust, and also a shutdown

input so you can turn the UAM2 off without disconnecting the power.

UAM2 CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

The UAM2 is built around the Texas Instruments TPA3001D1 audio

amplifier. It is a 20W audio amp in a 24 pin TSSOP package that we have

soldered onto the board for you. We know that many of our customers have

super skills, but we soldered it on for the sake of the ones that might have a

hard time with a small part like that. All the other parts are left for you to

solder, and if you have some surface mount experience it should be really

easy. If this is your first kit, it may be a little challenging, but if you work

slowly and carefully it should come out all right. The TPA3001D1 is a class D

audio amplifier. The “D” is the magic behind how a tiny chip can handle 20W

without going “poof”. If you already know how a class D amplifier works, you

may skip this section. If, however, this is your first exposure to class D amps

as it was for me when I designed this kit, keep reading and allow me to

enlighten you.

audio input

reference signal

outp

outn

differential

output

filter

output to speaker

comparator and

switch

UAM2• 5

First, your audio input is compared to a high frequency reference signal. This

generates two squarewave outputs. These outputs change phase in

response to the audio input.

When the audio input is 0 volts, the two outputs are nearly in phase and the

differential voltage is almost zero most of the time, just little spikes. But, when

the audio input is greater than zero volts, the two outputs are out of phase

and the differential voltage becomes greater, that is, its duty cycle increases.

The voltage is high a greater percentage of the time. This differential voltage

is filtered to produce a sine wave that is sent to the speaker. The magic of all

this is that the circuitry needed to carry out these operations can be digital

because all the waveforms are squarewaves; the voltage is either high or

low, on or off. until they go through the filter. This means that the circuitry

need only have switches to turn the voltage on and off. Switches don’t

consume power so a tiny chip can be used without getting hot. This is in

contrast to other types of amplifiers that have resistive elements in them

which burn up lots of power. They have to have big fat transistors in them

that can handle lots of heat. For more info on class D amps check out the

TPA3001D1 data sheet at:

http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3001d1.pdf

Or a Georgia Tech site:

http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/ece4435/f01/ClassD2.pdf

audio input = 0 volts audio input > 0

UAM2•6

RAMSEY Learn-As-You-Build KIT ASSEMBLY

There aren’t that many solder connections on the UAM2 printed circuit board,

but you should still practice good soldering techniques.

•Use a 25-watt soldering pencil with a clean, sharp tip.

•Use only rosin-core solder intended for electronics use.

•Use bright lighting; a magnifying lamp or bench-style magnifier may

be helpful.

•Do your work in stages, taking breaks to check your work. Carefully

•brush away wire cuttings so they don't lodge between solder

connections.

We have a two-fold "strategy" for the order of the following kit assembly steps.

First, we install parts in physical relationship to each other, so there's minimal

chance of inserting wires into wrong holes. Second, whenever possible, we

install in an order that fits our "Learn-As-You Build" Kit building philosophy.

This entails describing the circuit that you are building instead of just blindly

installing components. We hope that this will not only make assembly of our

kits easier, but help you to understand the circuit you’re constructing.

For each part, our word "Install" always means these steps:

1. Pick the correct part value to start with.

2. Insert it into the correct PC board location.

3. Orient it correctly, follow the PC board drawing and the written

directions for all parts - especially when there's a right way

and a wrong way to solder it in. (Diode bands, electrolytic

capacitor polarity, transistor shapes, dotted or notched ends

of IC's, and so forth.)

4. Solder all connections unless directed otherwise. Use enough heat

and solder flow for clean, shiny, completed connections.

SURFACE MOUNT COMPONENT SOLDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

You’ll notice that the circuit board contains only a few holes for component

leads to pass through. This is because the SMT components will be affixed to

the “solder” side of the PC board, the side that contains the PC traces. Be

aware that the component view for assembly is looking at the solder side of

the PC board. Patience is the key when installing surface mount components.

Typically, the first step (after identifying the component) is to “tin” one of the

PC traces that will connect to the part. Once this is accomplished, the part can

UAM2• 7

be installed by holding it with tweezers in contact with the “tinned” trace and

re-heating the solder (see the associated diagrams). Another commonly used

technique is to glue the surface mount components to the printed circuit board

before soldering. The procedure is to take a small amount of glue (usually with

a pin or toothpick) and “dab” the circuit board in the place where the

component will be affixed. Be careful not to apply too much glue as when the

part is placed it may “squash” the glue underneath the soldering tabs of the

component. Carefully place the part into position, and when the glue dries,

solder the connection.

UAM2•8

UAM2 PARTS LIST

Sort and “check off” the components in the boxes provided. We do our best to

pack all our kits correctly but it is possible that a mistake has occurred and we

missed a part. Please note that physical descriptions of parts are for those

currently being shipped. Sometimes the parts in your kit may have a different

appearance but still have the same values.

RESISTORS

2 51 ohm surface mount resistor [510] (R1,R5)

4 120K ohm surface mount resistor [124] (R2,R3,R4,R6)

CAPACITORS

7 1 uF surface mount capacitor (C2,C3,C5,C6,C7,C9,C11)

2 .001 uF surface mount capacitor (C14,C15)

2 .22 uF surface mount capacitor (C12,C13)

1 .47 uF surface mount capacitor (C8)

1 220 pF surface mount capacitor (C10)

1 1500 uF surface mount electrolytic capacitor (C1)

INDUCTORS

2 surface mount ferrite bead (L1,L2)

SEMICONDUCTORS

1 TPA3001D1 audio power amp [marked TPA3001D1] (U1)

2 20BQ030 Schottky diodes (D3,D4)

MISCELLANEOUS

1 red/black twisted wire, 2 ft

1 3 terminal green screw header (J7)

1 RCA jack (J3)

1 2.1 mm power jack (J4)

2 2 pin header (J1,J2)

2 screw posts (J5,J6)

1 foam tape, 4 inches

UAM2• 9

UAM2 PC BOARD ASSEMBLY STEPS

Let’s start with the surface mount components first, and do the big through

hole parts last, except for J3, which we will install as a reference part to get

our bearings. You want to be careful about how much heat you apply to the

teeny parts. Just get the tabs and circuit board pads hot enough to get the sol-

der to flow. We have also given you extra caps and resistors in case you torch

them. The one really tough surface mount part has been installed at the fac-

tory for you. Be very thankful. . . it’s a bear to do yourself!! Orient the board so

that you can read the writing and let’s get going.

1. Install J3, RCA jack, at the left side of the board.

2. Install R2 and R3, 120K resistors [marked 124], near J3. These are

pullups for J1 and J2, which are the gain setting jumpers.

3. Install C7, 1 uF surface mount capacitor, to the right of R2.

4. Install C5, 1 uF surface mount capacitor, to the right of R3.

5. Install C8, .47 uF surface mount capacitor, just below R7.

6. Install C9, 1 uF surface mount capacitor, above C5.

7. Install C6, 1 uF surface mount capacitor, next to C9.

8. Install C10, 220 pF surface mount capacitor, next to C6.

9. Install R4, 120K surface mount resistor, next to C10.

10. Install R5, 51 ohm surface mount resistor, above R4.

11. Install C12, .22 uF surface mount capacitor, to the right of R5.

12. Install L2, surface mount ferrite bead, next to C12. This acts a trap for

high frequencies at the speaker output, so the kit doesn’t radiate lots of

RF and upset the FCC.

13. Install D4, Schottky diode, under L2. Make sure it goes in the right

way. The white band on the part should line up with the band on the board

drawing.

14. Install C14, .001 uF surface mount capacitor, next to D4.

15. Install C11, 1 uF surface mount capacitor, under D4.

16. Install D3, Schottky diode, under C11. Again, watch the polarity.

17. Install C15, .001 uF capacitor to the right of D3.

UAM2•10

18. Install L1, surface mount ferrite bead, under D3.

19. Install C2, 1 uF surface mount capacitor, under L1.

20. Install C13, .22 uF surface mount capacitor, to the left of C2.

21. Install R1, 51 ohm surface mount resistor, to the left of C13.

22. Install C3, 1 uF surface mount capacitor, to the left of R1.

23. Install R6, 120K ohm surface mount resistor, down and to the left of

C3.

24. Install C1, that big ol’ beast electrolytic surface mount capacitor. Yeah,

you know the one I’m talking about, that big shiny one. BE REALLY SURE

IT GOES IN THE RIGHT WAY. During initial testing for this kit, someone

soldered it in backwards, and well, there was an incident. The black band

indicates the negative lead. It’s pretty easy to solder in. The leads are big-

ger so it will take a little more solder than the teeny parts.

Okay, enough with these weenie parts. Let’s solder in the through holes.

25. Install J6 and J5, the big silver screw post things on the right side of

the board. Don’t be afraid to use enough solder to hold them in well.

26. Install J7, the green three terminal block thingy at the bottom of the

board.

27. Install J4, the power jack, lower left of the board. Be sure to use

enough solder.

28. Install J1 and J2, the two pin headers at the upper right left of the

board.

29. Install, wait, uh, I guess that’s it! Now it’s testing time.

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