Mod 102+ Manual de usuario
1Copyright © 2015 by modkitsdiy.com
Use these instructions to learn:
How to build a tube amp.
This tube guitar amplifier circuit is based on a classic American circuit design combined with a British style
class A output section. At low volume it produces a clean chimey tone that moves into smooth overdrive at
higher volumes.
MOD 102+ GUITAR AMP KIT (K-MOD102+)
+features include a three position progressive toggle switch for off-standby-power and additional push-pull
functionality for each control:
Pull out the bass control knob for “mid boost.”
Pull out the treble control knob for “bright.”
Pull out the volume control knob for “turbo.”
MOD 102+
TUBE AMP KIT
BASS
®
modkitsdiy.com Pull-MID BOOST
5
2 8
1
7
010
9
4
3
6
VOLUME
Pull-TURBO
5
2 8
1
7
010
9
4
3
6
TREBLE
Pull-BRIGHT
5
2 8
1
7
010
9
4
3
6
ON
OFF
STBY STBY
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
TOOL LIST …………………………………………………………………………...3
PARTS LIST …………………………………………………………………………...4
SAFETY …………………………………………………………………………...5
SOLDERING TIPS …………………………………………………………………...6
WIRING TIPS ……………………………………………...................................7
HARDWARE FASTENING TIP …………………………………………………...8
STEP BY STEP ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS …………………………………...8
Section 1 - Mounting of Top Components …………………………………...8
Section 2 - Mounting of Front Components ………………………………….10
Section 3 - Mounting of Rear Components …………………………………...11
Section 4 - Mounting Terminal Strips and Components ………………………11
Section 5 - Connect Rear Mounted Components ……………………………..15
Section 6 – Connect the Tube Filament Wiring ………………………….……16
Section 7 – Finishing Up ………………………………………………………16
Label Mounting Instructions …………………………………………………18
PARTS LIST DRAWINGS (4)
There are four parts list drawings separated from these instructions to help you find and
identify each part.
ASSEMBLY DRAWINGS (8)
There are eight assembly drawings separated from these instructions to help you with
each step of the assembly.
MOD 102 GUITAR AMP KIT – BACKGROUND
The MOD 102+ Guitar Amp Kit was designed for anyone who is interested in building their own tube guitar
amplifier head.
It is meant for practice amp volume (up to 8 Watts). It has an 8 ohm output impedance. (We recommend
using it with a speaker cabinet that has an overall power handling of at least 10W). Use 16 AWG speaker
cable to connect from the amplifier to your speaker cabinet.
The web-site www.modkitsdiy.com has been set up to help answer your questions after you have thoroughly
read through the entire set of instructions.
3
TOOL LIST
Wire Strippers
Needle Nose Pliers
Cutting Pliers
Desoldering Pump
Solder (60/40 rosin core)
Soldering Station
Phillips Head Screwdrivers
Slotted tip screwdrivers (3mm tip)
Digital Multimeter (DMM)
Alligator Clip Test Leads (to fit DMM)
Channellock Pliers (or similar type)
Miniature Round File (fine cut)
PARTS LIST
Please see the parts list drawings for help with finding and identifying each part
along with corresponding part numbers.
RESISTORS:
Description Quantity
100Ω 1W 3
150Ω 5W 1
470Ω 1W 1
1.5kΩ 1/2W 2
5.6kΩ 1/2W 1
6.8kΩ 1/2W 1
10kΩ 1/2W 1
10kΩ 1W 1
100kΩ 1/2W 3
220kΩ 1/2W 1
220kΩ 1W 1
470kΩ 1/2W 1
1MΩ 1/2W 1
TERMINAL STRIPS:
Description Quantity
5 lug terminal strip (1st lug common) 3
5 lug terminal strip (3rd lug common) 1
7 lug terminal strip (1st & 7th lug common) 1
2 lug terminal strip (2nd lug common) 1
HARDWARE:
Description Quantity
#8 self-tap screws 4
#6 screws 13
#6 hex nuts 13
#6 lock washers 6
#4 screws 4
#4 hex nut 4
3/8" lock washers 5
TUBES:
Description Quantity
12AX7/ECC803 1
6BQ5/EL84 1
TRANSFORMERS:
Description Quantity
Power Transformer 269EX 1
Output Transformer P-T31 1
4
CAPACITORS:
Description Quantity
150pF 500V 1
250pF 500V 1
.022µF 400V 1
.047µF 400V 2
.1µF 400V 1
22µF 50V 2
47µF 350V 3
100µF 100V 1
MISCELLANEOUS PARTS:
Description Quantity
Solid state diode 1N4007 2
250kΩ audio push-pull pot 2
1MΩ audio push-pull pot 1
knobs 3
Input jack (switched) 1
output jack 1
9 pin miniature tube socket 2
preamp tube shield 1
EL84 tube retainer 1
Rubber Grommet (3/8" center) 4
Rubber Grommet (1/4" center) 1
red jewel 1
Power switch (3 pos. prog.) 1
1A fuse 1
Fuse holder 1
Light bulb 1
Lamp holder 1
Handle with mounting hardware 2
Rubber bumpers 4
Power cord 1
Steel chassis box and cover 1/each
Labels 1 set
Green 20 AWG wire 4 feet
White 20 AWG wire 6 feet
Black 22 AWG wire 1 foot
5
DANGER
HIGH VOLTAGE
MAY BE PRESENT
ON FILTER CAPACITORS
DO NOT TOUCH!
SAFETY
Tube amps operate at high voltages that have the potential to injure and kill. Please remember the following
when working on this project.
Only work on the amp when you are wide awake and sober.
Do not plug the amp in until you have gone through all of the instructions, checking and re-checking
each step.
Do not turn the amp on until you have connected it to a speaker cabinet.
Be aware that tubes become very hot when the amp is on and can take up to 10 minutes to cool down
after power is turned off.
Work in a ventilated area when soldering.
Always follow the one hand rule when working with an amp that is connected to power or may have
voltage present. (Any amp that has been plugged in at one time, may have high voltage present).
ON STANDBY
The one hand rule (pictured below): is a safety precaution for working on an amp that is
plugged in or could potentially have high voltages present. Using alligator clips with your
DMM, clip the ground side to the chassis and use the other side to probe at various test points
with one hand. This prevents a fatal shock which can result from current passing through the
heart. (Many people even put their other hand in their pocket or behind their back).
Always probe the amp for dangerous voltages at several test points before working on it, even if it has been turned
off and unplugged for months.
Test points include:
Each positive end of polarized filter caps
Visit www.modkitsdiy.com and e-mail [email protected] if you have any problems when first turning on
your amp for troubleshooting help. If you smell or see smoke, hear something pop, or the chassis becomes
too hot to touch, turn off power and unplug immediately.
SOLDERING TIPS
1. Bend the component lead
and wrap it around the
connection point.
2. Wrap the component lead
so that it can hold itself to the
connection point.
3. Heat up both component
lead and connection point with
the soldering iron.
4. Apply solder to both
component lead and
connection point.
2. Apply fresh solder to mix in
with old solder joint
1. Heat up old solder joint
with the soldering iron.
3. Use a de-soldering tool to
remove the old solder joint
while it is heated.
De-Soldering Tip
6
It is important to make a good solder joint at each connection point. A cold solder joint is a connection that
may look connected but is actually disconnected or intermittently connected. (A cold solder joint can keep
your project from working.)
Follow these tips to make a good solder joint. Take your time with each connection and make sure that all
components are connected and will remain connected if your project is bumped or shaken.
Bend the component lead or wire ending and wrap it around the connection point.
Make sure it is not too close to a neighboring component which could cause an
unintended connection.
2. Wrap the component lead so that it can hold itself to the connection point.
Touch the soldering iron to both the component lead and the connection point allowing both to
warm up just before applying the solder to them.
Be sure to adequately cover both component lead and connection point with melted solder.
Remove the soldering iron from your work and allow the solder joint to cool. (The
solder joint should be shiny and smooth after solidifying.)
Cut off any excess wire or component leads with cutting pliers.
Clean the soldering iron's tip by wiping it across the wet sponge again after making the
solder joint.
WIRING TIPS
7
Because of the electro-magnetic
properties of current traveling through a
wire, there are wiring conventions used
when making wire connections.
A) Twist the wires together where
indicated in the instructions.
B) If two wire paths intersect, try to have
them cross over each other as
perpendicular as possible. (You should
follow the path of the wires shown in the
instructions).
Measure the wire by running it along its actual path (shown in the drawings) and then cutting it with
your wire cutters at a length that will give it a little bit of slack after stripping off the insulation and
soldering.
It is important not to make the wires too long.
Be careful not to burn the insulation of nearby wires with the soldering iron.
With the terminal strips used in this kit, you might want to connect some wires to the lower holes
and components to the upper holes. (Doing this can make it easier to change components for
modification).
5W 1K
5W 1K
Wires connected to lower terminal holes.
Components connected to upper terminal
holes.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
A) Twisted Wires
B) Perpendicular
Intersection
STEP BY STEP ASSEMBLY
Please refer to the respective drawings for each section. We recommend browsing over the instructions and
looking at all drawings once before actually beginning to assemble the kit.
HARDWARE FASTENING TIP
When fastening components with mounting hardware (screws, lock washers, and hex nuts), the lock washer and
hex nuts should be fastened on the other side of the chassis from the head of the screw in the order pictured
below.
SECTION 1 – Mounting of Top Components
Please refer to Drawings 1 – 3. Find your chassis box. Drawing 1 identifies the names of
components that you will be mounting to the top of the chassis box.
Step 2 – Mount the rubber grommets with the 3/8" centers
Drawing 2 shows where to mount these four rubber grommets. Squeeze the grommet into
the hole and push it into place with your fingers.
8
Chassis
Screw Head
Lock Washer Hex Nut
Component Mounting
Bracket
(4)
Step 3 – Mount the 9 pin miniature tube socket for the 12AX7 with its tube shield
Drawing 2 shows where to mount the 9 pin miniature socket “V1”. Make sure that pins 1 & 9 face the front
of the chassis. Use #4 hardware and the tube shield to mount this socket.
(2)
(2)
1 9
Tip: Because the tube shield mounting holes are very close to the
socket edge, it may be easiest to fasten the first screw loosely and then
the second screw by holding the hex nut (flat side to socket edge)
against the chassis holes and then inserting the screw from the top of
the chassis. Finish up by fastening both screws tightly.
Top of Chassis
Before you begin!
Use a fine cut miniature round file to carefully file away the paint
coating only from the inside edge of each chassis hole.
(The chassis provides the ground connection for many components so it is
important that the inner edge of these holes are not insulated by the paint coating).
Step 1 – Mount the Labels
Follow the label mounting instructions on page 18 and attach each
label over its corresponding chassis hole.
Step 4 – Mount the 9 pin miniature tube socket with its retainer for the EL84
Drawing 2 shows where to mount the 9 pin miniature socket “V2” and its retainer. Make sure that pins 1 & 9
face the “TR1” side of the chassis. (Use #4 hardware).
(2)
(2)
9
Step 5 – Mount both side handles
Mount both handles to the sides of the chassis box using their supplied #8 hardware. (Doing this step now
will help you flip the chassis when mounting the two transformers).
.25
"
Mount both side handles.
(4)
(4)
(2)
Step 6 – Mount the Power Transformer (TR1)
Remove the 269EX power transformer from its packaging. Drawings 2 & 3 show where to mount the power
transformer.
A) Cut off the gray wire as described on the drawing.
B) Place the transformer on its side and push the wires (one at a time) through their respective grommet holes
as indicated on the drawing.
C) Slowly tilt the transformer upright so that the mounting holes line up with the transformer feet, while
continuing to push each bundle of wires through the grommet holes. (Be careful not to dislodge the rubber
grommets).
D) Use #6 mounting hardware to fasten the power transformer in place.
(4) (4) (4)
Step 7 – Mount the Output Transformer (TR2)
Drawing 3 shows where to mount the output transformer P-T31.
A) Hold the transformer up above the chassis and push the wires through their respective grommet holes as
indicated on the drawing.
B) Place the transformer on the chassis so that the mounting holes line up with the transformer feet.
C) Use #6 mounting hardware to fasten the power transformer in place.
(2) (2) (2)
SECTION 2 – Mounting of Front Components
Please refer to Drawing 4.
Step 1 – Mount the Lamp Holder
Drawing 4 shows where to mount the lamp holder. Be sure to mount it so
that its solder lugs point towards the bottom opening of the chassis box.
(Once the lamp holder is mounted you may screw in the bulb and then the
jewel).
Step 2 – Mount the Power Switch
Drawing 4 shows where to mount the power switch. Be sure to mount the power
switch with its solder lugs directed toward the bottom opening of the chassis box.
Step 3 – Mount the Controls
Drawing 4 shows where to mount the bass, treble, and volume pots.
Remove the two nuts and two flat washers from the 250K
Bass and Treble pot bushings. On each pot put one nut on the
bushing, turning it all the way down on the bushing.
Put one of the 3/8" lock washers on the bushing, then mount
the pot to the front panel with all lugs facing up.
Place one of the flat washers on the bushing followed by the
remaining mounting nut and tighten. (Keep the remaining flat
washers as one will be used in the next step).
Symbol used in the layout drawings to show the switch
and potentiometer terminal connections simultaneously.
DPDT switch
Pot lugs used
w hc
w hc
(2)
Treble and Bass:
Volume:
Remove the nut from the bushing leaving the black lock washer on the bushing.
Bend back the small mounting tab on the side of this pot so that it does not
interfere with mounting.
(1)
Bend back mounting tab
Put one of the flat washers from the previous step on the bushing followed by the nut, and tighten.
Put one of the 3/8" lock washers on the bushing and mount the pot to the front
panel with its solder lugs facing up.
PWR
STBY
10
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