Liquid.cool Vortex One Manual de usuario

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1

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AM002

Installaon Guide v1.02

Advanced PC Watercooling Soluon for the DIY Enthusiast

CPU Waterblock Installaon for INTEL 115x

Take the 115x backplate as pictured below, turn your Motherboard upside down carefully and place the backplate on the back of

the Motherboard, It will only ﬁt one way. Ensure the threaded lugs are inserted through the Intel mounng holes, then turn the

Motherboard the correct way over, holding the backplate in place.

Place a washer over each of the four mounng screws followed by four springs on top, then your installaon should look like the

picture below. You are now ready to screw down the four thumb screws on each of the four mounng screws.

Take a thumb screw, and thread it onto each mounng screw as above, as far down as you can just before the spring starts to make

tension. Repeat this for the others. Once all four of the thumb screws are in place, you can start to ghten them down opposites at

opposite corners so that the tension is evenly applied. Tighten them unl the thumb screw stops.

Socket

Take four of the washers you have received in your mounng pack and place them over the four Intel mounng lugs as shown below.

From the same mounng pack, ﬁnd the mounng screws, and thread them into the 115X backplate to secure it in place, making sure

the washer is separang the mounng screw from the Motherboard.

Ensure the CPU is ﬁed correctly into the Motherboard, then apply paste to the CPU to the top as required. Only a small amount is

needed to produce a thin layer, then smooth it down with a ﬂat plasc card or spatula making sure you clean up any excess with a

ssue or an alcohol wipe.

Place the CPU Waterblock over all four of the mounng screws which are now ﬁed to the 115X backplate, the waterblock will sit

nicely on top of the CPU with the board up right, you shouldn’t need to hold it in place.

CPU Waterblock Installaon for INTEL 1366 & 2011

Locate the four mounng screws for Intel 115x, and four of the washers from the mounng pack. these are used in the installaon

for socket 1366. Place a washer over the small threaded end and insert it through the 4 motherboard mounng holes as shown

below. Next turn the Motherboard upside down, and locate another four washers, place them over the thread you placed through

the Motherboard, and then screw the four nuts over each one. Tighten them down carefully with a small spanner or pliers, be

careful not to damage the Motherboard tracks on either side.

Locate the four mounng screws for Intel 2011 in your Mounng pack. With socket 2011, you simply use the 2011 mounng screws

by threading these in to the standard 2011 Socket plate on your Motherboard. No washers are needed here.

Ensure the CPU is ﬁed correctly into the Motherboard, then apply paste to the CPU to the top as required. Only a small amount is

needed to produce a thin layer, then smooth it down with a ﬂat plasc card or spatula making sure you clean up any excess with a

ssue or an alcohol wipe.

Place the CPU Waterblock over all four of the mounng screws which are now ﬁed to the Motherboard, the waterblock will sit

nicely on top of the CPU with the board up right, you shouldn’t need to hold it in place.

Place a washer over each of the four mounng screws followed by four springs on top, then your installaon should look like the

picture below. You are now ready to screw down the four thumb screws on each of the four mounng screws.

Take a thumb screw, and thread it onto each mounng screw as above, as far down as you can just before the spring starts to make

tension. Repeat this for the others. Once all four of the thumb screws are in place, you can start to ghten them down opposites at

opposite corners so that the tension is evenly applied. Tighten them unl the thumb screw stops.

CPU Waterblock Installaon for AMD AM3 & AM4

Locate the four mounng screws for AMD Sockets in your Mounng pack. With socket AM3 and AM4, you simply use the AMD

mounng screws by threading these in to the standard AMD Socket backplate on your Motherboard. No washers are needed here.

On AMD Socket AM3 and AM4 motherboards you will ﬁnd around the socket a plasc retenon mount which has 2 or 4 screws in

it, you need to remove these 4 screws as shown below, this will remove the retenon mount on the front of the Motherboard and

give you 4 screws in the standard backplate which we can use. Ensure the backplate doesn’t fall oﬀ by holding it with your ﬁngers.

Ensure the CPU is ﬁed correctly into the Motherboard, then apply paste to the CPU to the top as required. Only a small amount is

needed to produce a thin layer, then smooth it down with a ﬂat plasc card or spatula making sure you clean up any excess with a

ssue or an alcohol wipe.

Place the CPU Waterblock over all four of the mounng screws which are now ﬁed to the Motherboard, the waterblock will sit

nicely on top of the CPU with the board up right, you shouldn’t need to hold it in place.

Place a washer over each of the four mounng screws followed by four springs on top, then your installaon should look like the

picture below. You are now ready to screw down the four thumb screws on each of the four mounng screws.

Take a thumb screw, and thread it onto each mounng screw as above, as far down as you can just before the spring starts to make

tension. Repeat this for the others. Once all four of the thumb screws are in place, you can start to ghten them down opposites at

opposite corners so that the tension is evenly applied. Tighten them unl the thumb screw stops.

Tube Roung Advice:

Before you cut any tubing, ensure that you’ve temporarily mounted all your watercooling in place, so you can see how long you need

to cut the tubing, allowing a nice hose ﬂow that isn't too ght and has a nice loop to it.

Once all the kit is installed in the case, you can then

begin to cut the tubing to pipe the system up. If

you’ve never done this before it’s best to follow the

two examples below:

Example 1: (Pictured le)

PUMP OUTLET >> FLOW METER (Oponal) >>

RADIRADIATOR >> CPU BLOCK >> PUMP INLET

Example 2:

PUMP OUTLET >> FLOW METER (Oponal) >>

CPU BLOCK >> RADIATOR >> PUMP INLET

Once you’ve piped the system up, it’s not me to

ﬁll just yet, we need to remove the kit from the

case, away from your new Hardware, and perform

a 24ha 24hr leak test ﬁrst. You can do this by using the

24pin bridging tool included in the kit so that the

PSU doesn’t need to start your Motherboard, for it

to power the pump which you will connected to it.

Plug this tool into

your Powersupply,

it will allow you to

start the PSU with-

out the

Motherboard

being switched on.

TThis is a safe way

to power your

Pump while leak

tesng for 24hrs..

The radiator can be mounted in a variety of places inside or outside of the case. The posion depends on the amount of room you

have in your case, the size of the radiator and mounng opons that case oﬀers.

The radiator can be posioned either way up, and both tubing connectors can be used for either INLET or OUTLET.

Example installaon:

Airﬂow:

Always ensure the case has good Airﬂow, this

is key to cooling down the internal system

temperature as well as helping your overall

ambient temperature for the watercooling kit.

If you mount the radiator in Opon 1 as shown

hehere, then you will want cool air coming in to

the case from fans mounted where Opon 3 is.

If you mount the radiator in Opon 2 as shown

here, then the same applies as above, you can

use Opon 3 OR Opon 1 as your air inlet.

If you mount the radiator in Opon 3 as shown

here, you will need to have fans mounted in

OOpon 1 to bring cool air into the case.

In all instances above, your Radiator will act as

the air outlet, so all warm air from the case and

radiator is removed from inside the case.

Nothing is set in stone, you can set this up in a

diﬀerent way, as long as the case has air ﬂow

being pushed into the case as well as the

rradiator acng as an Exhaust, its OK.

Radiator Installaon & Tube Roung

Within your new Watercooling system, we have included a high performance Copper radiator. Most modern PC cases are now made

with full support for watercooling radiators to be ﬁed inside the chassis, please check the product speciﬁcaon of the case or with

the retailer you purchase the case from before ordering to conﬁrm compability with 240mm or 360mm Radiators as standard.

Pump & Reservoir overview

Compression Fing & Tube overview

Compression ﬁngs are an ideal ﬁng for watercooling, they are 100% leak free when installed correctly. Follow the details below

for guidance on how to correctly install your ﬁngs and tube to the components within this watercooling system.

Failure to install them correctly may result in coolant leaks, which may lead to damaged hardware..

When installing your compression ﬁngs into your CPU Block, Pump/Reservoir Radiator or Flow Meter you do not need to use

excessive force. These ﬁngs are ﬁed with an O-ring on the thread and will seal the ﬁng correctly without need for any

addional items such as PTFE Tape or Thread lock. Screw each ﬁng in all the way with your ﬁngers, ll the O-ring starts to

ghten up the ﬁng, then turn a further quarter turn unl the ﬁng is hand ght. This is all you need.

NOTE: Using spanners, pliers, grips or other tools to install your compression ﬁngs is not needed and will damage the threads on

your watercooling parts.

Compression

Collar

INLET 2

INLET 1

FLOW

OUTLET

Your Pump & Reservoir will have 3 main threads

which you can insert ﬁngs into. At this stage,

take a moment to think about where you will

install the pump inside your case, you can then

work out which of the two INLET ports to use.

If you decide to use INLET 1 as your return back

t

to the pump, then you will need to install the

Blank ﬁng which is included with your kit to

seal INLET 2, but don’t seal it just yet. We’ll be

using the other INLET as a way to ﬁll the reservoir.

Blank it when ﬁlling is complete.

The FLOW OUTLET is the ﬁng which the liquid

will pump from at speed. This is usually sent

st

straight to the heat source or radiator ﬁrst, please

refer to the secon on Tube Roung within this

manual for further details.

The pump is powered by a 4Pin Molex plug, and

will ﬁt into any standard PSU 4Pin power plug

inside your PC case. It’s always best to run the

pump on its own feed from the PSU but if that

is

isn’t possible, it will be ﬁne.

When ﬁlling the system, ﬁll the reservoir 3/4 of

the way full, and switch the PSU on, the pump

will acvate and push the liquid into the loop.

Be sure to switch oﬀ when the reservoir is empty

so you can ﬁll it up again. Repeat this process unl

the system is full.

N

Note: Do Not allow the pump to run dry at all, it

will cause damage to the pump impeller inside.

Compression

Body

Once your ﬁngs are installed ﬁnger ght into your parts, you can start to install the hose. Unscrew all the Compression Collars

and keep them safe, you’ll need these later during the temporary installaon of the parts in your case, prior to leak tesng.

Fig 1: Cut your tubing to the desired length using a sharp knife, scissors or preferably a tube cuer, try and cut as straight as

possible. Push your tubing onto the barb of the Compression Body unl fully down all the way.

Fig 2: Slide a Compression Collar over the tube with the thread poinng down towards the thread on the Compression Body.

Fig 3: Screw the Compression Collar all the way down, ﬁnger ght. There is no need for tools here during this process.

Once those three steps are complete, you can now duplicate this over the rest of the ﬁngs during the installaon process.

Pure Dislled Coolant & Colouring

Addional safe to use coolant

Here at Liquid.cool we manufacturer the best liquid on the planet for PC watercooling end of! If you like the look of “Opaque” setups

like the ones pictured below and don’t want to use the Pure Dislled + Dyes that come with this kit, we recommend you check out

the Liquid.cool CFX Opaque coolant from your Liquid.cool retailer. This coolant is a safe to use, non-clogging and non-separang High

Performance liquid speciﬁcally made for the PC Watercooling industry.

Colours include:

Cherry Red, Sky Blue, Pure Blue,

Vivid Green, Electric Yellow, Atomic

Orange, Steel Grey, Purple Violet,

Shadow Black and last but not least

Ghost White.

SCAN FOR MSDS

RECOMENDED

Non Toxic

An-Freezing Bio-degradable

Inside you kit box will be a bole of Pure Dislled coolant which you will use to ﬁll up the system. This is an Ultra Pure liquid with

all the nases that are in tap water removed. This liquid does not contain any An Algae or Biocides.

Also inside the kit box, you’ll noce it comes with 3 coloured dyes which

you can use to make your system look unique and colourful.

Take care when using the dyes, these are concentrated dye stuﬀ liquids

and if proper precauons are not taken, this can and will stain hands and

clothes. When the dye is added to the system and diluted, it becomes a

non-stain soluon.

Y

Your kit contains, UV Reacve Blue, UV Reacve Green and Cherry Red

To mix the dye, you can either

dye the Ultra Pure liquid in the

bole OR you can ﬁll the

system

and then add the dye to the

reservoir unit, and watch the

ﬂow chase the dye around the

loop u

loop unl fully coloured.

When adding the dye, add

drips

at a me, rather than lots at

a me to get the desired

colour preference. Dyes can be

mixed to make custom colours.

All our dyes come with An Corrosive Biocide mixed in. Please do not mix these three dyes with any other manufacturer’s dyes.

Addional Liquid.cool Pure Dislled coolant can be purchased from your Liquid.cool retailer.

Frequently Asked Quesons

Queson:

I have bubbles in the system, how do i get rid of them?

Answer:

The bubbles in the coolant will usually leave the system within 24 hours. Addionally Shung down the system and ensuring the pump

is switched oﬀ, leaving it for a while for the bubbles to sele can help before restarng.

Queson:

MMy Pump is making a noise ?

Answer:

Check your coolant level. If the coolant falls too low air will get into the pump and make a noise. It is normal for some noise

upon ﬁlling and bleeding the system, this will fade quickly and become almost silent when all the bubbles are gone.

Queson:

Can i use tap water to ﬁll the system up ?

Answer:

NNo, tap water contains lots of impuries which may cause a build up or growth inside the watercooling setup. We recommend to

use only the Pure Dislled that comes with this kit or Liquid.cool CFX High Performance liquids.

Queson:

My CPU temperature seems high, what could be wrong ?

Answer:

Check to ensure the pump is running ﬁrst of all, double check all of the air has been removed from the radiator and that the air ﬂow

to the radiator is not restricted in any way. It’s always best to check there are not kinks of blockages in the pipes. If the problem

pe

persists, remove the CPU waterblock and clean the old thermal past oﬀ and then reinstall it using high performance thermal paste.

Queson:

Water is leaking from the connectors ?

Answer:

Please revert back to the Compression Fings & Tube secon, where it details the correct way to install the ﬁngs into the hardware,

and also how to use the compression ﬁngs correctly. Drain the system and re-ﬁt them correctly.

Queson:

WWater is leaking from from the CPU block, Pump or Radiator ?

Answer:

In the unlikely event of a leak from one of the components in this kit, drain the system down and contact your retailer for further

instrucons.

Installaon Guide v1.02

Advanced PC Watercooling Soluon for the DIY Enthusiast