KD1JV Designs Mountain Topper Manual de usuario
The Mountain Topper
Tri-bander
(revised 4-10-14)
A very small, very efficient, three band rig
By
KD1J Designs
580 Durand Rd
Randolph, NH 03593
http://kd1jv.qrpradio.com stev[email protected]
Specifications:
Three bands, choose 3 - 40M, 30M, 20M or 17M.
80M possible, but filter parts not supplied.
Receiver:
MDS: ~0.2 u
Small signal band width ~ 500 Hz
Audio output limited to ~ 1200 mv p-p
Headphone output, 16 ohms min recommended.
Minimum current (no signal) ~40 ma
Transmitter:
2.5 watts @ 9 volt supply typical
Spurs -50 dBc or better
Table of Contents
Assembly:......................................................................2
Check out and Calibration:...........................................13
Reference Oscillator Frequency Calibration:....13
Local Oscillator frequency trim and FO
adjustment:........................................................14
FO adjustment: ..............................................14
Receiver input peaking:.....................................14
Transmitter test and output (low pass) filter
adjustment:........................................................14
asic operation:...........................................................18
Turning the rig on and off:.......................................18
and selection:.......................................................18
Volume control: ......................................................18
Input attenuator:......................................................18
Control switches:....................................................19
Frequency tuning: ..................................................19
Tuning limits: .....................................................19
RIT:.........................................................................19
MENU:....................................................................20
Quick selections: ....................................................20
DFE Mode: .......................................................20
Tune Mode: .......................................................20
attery Voltage:.................................................21
Fn switch only selected functions:..........................21
Frequency readout: ................................................21
S: Selecting Keyer code speed..........................21
M: Keyer Memory entry: ..................................21
Checking and storing the message:...................22
Sending messages: ..........................................22
eacon Mode:...................................................22
P: Program user preferences.............................23
Straight key mode:..................................................23
Operating voltages: ................................................23
HIGH SWR CAUTION: .....................................23
1
Assembly:
●Your work area should be reasonably clean and uncluttered. Good lighting is a must.
●Empty the packets containing the parts into small paper bowls. This will ensure that they do not get
lost. Some people like to do the assembly over a cookie sheet as the lip around the edge helps to keep
parts from going far. The metal sheet also provides some measure of static control, especially if you
ground it. A white sheet under your work area could help in finding a part which might get away from you.
●A very thin 0.015”) solder is supplied for soldering the surface mounted parts. Very little solder is
need for each connection. Ideally, you want a little convex fillet at the end of chip resistors and
capacitors. Try not to end up will a ball of solder at the end of the part.
●Do not use liquid solder flux. It simply makes a mess and is difficult to clean off the board and get out
from under parts. If not completely removed from the board, it can cause problems.
●Before placing a part, lightly tin one pad for where it will go. You can speed assembly by tining one pad
at all the locations for which a particular value of part will go. There is no need for a low wattage
soldering iron. It is best to have a hot tip which will let you get the job done quickly. You will need
a small tip on the iron, 1/32” to 1/16” chisel or round is best.
●Most of the surface mount parts come in part carriers. To remove the part s), hold the carrier close to
the work surface and carefully peel back the clear plastic covering the part. This can be done with the
tip of a sharp hobby knife such as a #11 Xacto blade or pointy tipped tweezers. Once you remove the
clear plastic strip, dump the part out of the carrier and onto your work surface.
●If you use tweezers to handle the parts, be very careful you don't grab onto them too tightly. These
little parts have a way of flying out from between the tips of the tweezers, never to be seen again.
Apparently, they go into the twilight zone, along with all the pens, small parts and hardware which
falls off the bench. They must go someplace since its never anywhere I can ever find them again!
●An alternative to using tweezers to handle the parts is to use a tooth pick or chop stick with the end
rubbed into a little bees wax. The bees wax makes the end sticky so the part will stick to it. For the
smaller IC's I grab them length wise with the tweezers.
●Tack the end of a part in its place by applying heat to the end of the part over the tined circuit board
pad, while applying a little pressure to make sure it lays flat to the board. Be sure to heat both the
pad and the end of the part. Generally, you will not have to add any additional solder to this
connection. Then solder the other end of the part. If you don't do this right away and go onto tacking
down some more parts, there is a good chance you will forget to go back and solder all the parts which
require it.
●It is nearly impossible not to make solder shorts between pins on the DDS chip, due to the close pin
spacing. Remove any shorts with solder wick.
Using solder paste:
Using solder paste is the ideal way to build the board. Small amounts of solder paste in an application syringe
can be bought for about $5.00 from Cash Olson over the internet. Also needed is a warming plate to preheat the
board to about 200 degrees and a low power heat gun. An “Embossing” heat gun is commonly used found at craft
stores), though a hair dryer on low setting might work. A soft air flow is required as to not to blow parts off
the board.
For chip caps and resistors, a very small dab of solder paste is put on the pads and then the part placed
over the pads. The parts will slide around very easily, so one must be careful not to nudge them. For IC's,
placing the IC down first, then putting a bead of paste along the leads looks to be a better method then putting
the paste on the pads first, then the IC.
The LED display should be hand soldered, along with all the through hole parts. Start with the side of the board
with the most parts first bottom in the case of the MTR).
Once all the parts have been placed, put the board on the warming plate and heat to about 200 degrees.
Then slowly heat the top of the board with the hot air gun. When the solder paste reaches its melting point, you
will see it liquefy and the parts snap into alignment to the pad. This is when the solder paste turns from a dull
gray to shinny. Be on the look out for “tomb stoning” which is when a chip cap or resistor will stand up on one
end. Once all the solder has reflowed, remove the power to the heating plate and let it cool down.
I have a youtube video showing how to solder SMT parts, both by hand and using solder paste.
http://youtu.be/Ah5HEjDTHUo You may want to watch some of the other suggested videos on SMT soldering which are
done a bit more professionally then mine.
2
Using the parts placement guides:
The parts placement guides on the following pages are color coded to show the location of the various types of
parts. Parts to be installed are highlighted in various colors to help identify their locations. The guides are
scaled so that the writing on them is easy to see on a computer monitor and come out crisper after the conversion
to pdf. Unfortunately, if you print all these pages out, it will use up a bunch of your ink jet ink.
Some parts do not have values marked on them or are very hard to read. Capacitors are not marked so these have
been color coded with a marker on the part carrier using the resistor color code to indicate their value in pfd.
SOT-23 parts have numbers printed on them, but are very hard to read. Therefore, these parts are also color
coded, but with a color sticker, as they come in plastic carriers. The color on the carrier matches the color
shown on the placement guide diagram.
Resistors have their value printed on them, though it might take a magnifying glass to read the numbers.
Therefore, individual values are not color coded.
Here's what the finished board should look like when your done:
I made the mistake of using hot air to attach the LED display and ended up melting the bottom edge. Therefore, if
you use solder paste, hand solder the display.
3
Component location diagrams
These diagrams show the overall part locations and values. This page can be printed out to help locate part
locations.
Color highlighting is used to help identify component type, not value. Blue = capacitors, Yellow = resistors,
Red and orange = inductors, gray = semiconductors or through hole parts.
Top Side:
Bottom Side:
4
Parts list:
5
QTY Value Color code or value #
1 or
2
51 510 The extra 51 or 270 resistor
used to select 17M band
option.
3 or
4
270 271 50-50 chance of getting the
51 or 270 resistor.
9 470 471
2 2.2 K 222
1 3.9 K 392
7 10 K 103
5 22 K 223
3 100K 104
1 330K 334
1 2.67K 2671 1%
1 14.0K 1402 1%
1 113K 1133 1%
1 267K 2673 1%
7 30 p Trimmer caps
3 3.3 p (3.3) GRN/GRN
5 22 p (22) RED/RED
1 33p (33) Org/Org/ lk
2 47 p (47) YEL/VOL
2 68 p (68) LU/GRY
8 100 p (101) RN/ LK/ RN
11 1000p (102) RN/ LK/RED I accidentally cut a bunch
of strips of 10, so some kits
have one of these caps
loose.
15 0.01 u (103) RN/ LK/ORG
1 0.022u (223) RED/RED/ORG
7 0.1 u (104) RN/ LK/YEL
1 1 u (106) RN/ LK/ LU
2 4.7 u ELECTRO
1 33 u ELECTRO
1 100 u ELECTRO
2 3.9 uH RED L3, L6 SMT 1206
3 10 uH LUE L1, L2, L11 SMT
0805
2 22 uH 40M RED/RED/ LK/GLD
2 12 uH 30M RN/RED/ LK/GLD
2 8.2 uH 20M GRY/RED/GLD/GLD
2 100 p (101) C0G leaded
2 150 p (151) C0G
3 220 p (221) C0G
3 330 p (331) C0G
1 560 p (561) C0G
1 680 p (681) C0G
QTY Part number Color code or
value #
location/description
2 SA612A U1, U4 MIXER
1 LM4808M U3 AUDIO AMP
1 TC1014-3.3VCT713 lue A5xx
(last two
characters
are date code
U6 3.3V REG
1 LM386M U2 AUDIO AMP
1 AD9834 RUZ U8 DDS
1 MCP1703-5002E/D MCP1703 U7 5V REG
1 74AC02M AC02 U9 QUAD OR
1SN74LVC1G3157D V CC5x U5 ANG SWITCH
1 MSP430F2132IPW U10 MPU
1 ASV-50-EJ-T ASV 50.0 U11 50 MHz CLK
2 2N7002 RED [702] Q1, Q2 MOSFET
2 NDT2955 2955 Q3, Q5 P-CH
3 S170 Q4,6,7 MOSFET
1 AV99 YEL [A7] D1
2 ZT52C5V1-F [W8] D2, D3 5.1V zener
1 ZX85C47 GLASS D4 47V zener
1 0.3” 7 SEG LED DISPLAY
1 32.768 kHz CYLINER CRYSTAL
5 4.9152 MHz HC-49/US XTAL, MATCHED
1 DPDT Slide switch
3 DP3T SLIDE SWITCHES
4 6 X 4.3mm TACT SWITCH 612-
TL1105EF100Q
1 1.7mm X 4mm DC JACK 163-4018-EX
1 1.7mm X 4mm DC PLUG 171-3219-EX
2 3.5mm STEREO JACKS
4 0.187” # 2 SWAG THREADED SPACER
4 #2-32 SCREWS
1 Red display filter film
6 T-30-2 RED IRON TOROID
1 FT37-43 LACK FERRITE TORIOD
1 8+ feet #28
MAGNET
WIRE
1 1 feet HOOK UP WIRE
1 48” 0.015” SOLDER
1 CIRCUIT OARD
4 umper feet
1 3” solder wick
1 Enclosure, top and
bottom.
Semiconductor placement
●Finding Pin 1. Some of the ICs used in this kit have a dot or
indentation at the Pin 1 corner of the chip. For others, the Pin 1
locations isn't as obvious. The manufactures logo is sometimes used as
is the case for U1 and U3) or sometimes there is a line along the Pin 1
end of the chip. In all cases, there is a beveled or rounded edge along
the side of the Pin 1 left) side of the IC package. When the package is
orientated vertically and the beveled edge is to the left, Pin 1 is
always in the upper left corner as shown in the diagram.
●U1 and U4, SA612) use the manufactures log NXP) for the pin 1 corner designator.
●Before placing an IC or transistor, tin one of the corner pads and then tack that lead of the part down
first. Before soldering any other pins, make sure all the leads are lined up on the pads. This is
especially important for U8 and U10, where these isn't much room for error. see hit below for an aid to
lining up the leads with the pads) Then solder the lead on the opposite corner from the tacked lead to
make sure the body doesn't move when you solder the rest of the leads.
●You will have to carefully check the number on the 8 pins IC's to tell them apart. Using a magnifying
glass and tilting the part slightly to the light will aid in reading the a part number. The rest of the
IC's are each in unique packages, so are easier to determine their locations.
●Tilting an IC to the light can make reading the part number easier.
●U5 and U6 are very similar. The way to tell them apart is the fact U5 has 6 leads and U6 has 5. To help
tell them apart, the U6 part carrier has a Blue sticker on it. U5 has a faint dot which marks the pin 1
end, also the lettering “CC5R” will be upside down when installed correctly.
●There are several different SOT-23 devices, the packages they are in are each color coded to match the
layout diagram.
●U11 is the rectangular box with the silver top. Be sure to get solder to flow into the little “U” shaped
cups near each corner of the part. A number of builders have had trouble with this and not made solder
connection to the pads under the part. A fine tipped iron is required here. Also, be careful of using
too much solder and making a short to the metal top of the package.
●D3 has very faint line on one end to indicate the cathode end. Look carefully for this line and face it
towards the line printed on the board.
●There maybe more numbers or letters on the semiconductor packages then indicated on the layout diagram.
These are date or lot codes and can vary depending on when the parts are purchased. Therefore these are
not used for part identification on the layout diagrams.
●CAUTION! There are three parts in SOT-223 packages, one of which is the 5V regulator, which goes on the
top side of the board. Do not mix up with the 2955 MOSFETS, Q2 and Q3. The regulator is loose in the
semiconductor parts bag, while the two MOSFETS are together in a parts carrier.
●HINT: Taping a straight edge, such as a thin metal ruler, across the board and lined up with the bottom
outline of U8 or U10 as the case maybe) will aid in keeping the part aligned with the pads. First do U8,
then U10. After soldering the leads, clean up any solder shorts with the supplied solder wick. Be sure to
only pull the wick parallel to the leads, not against the gain!
6
Bottom side semiconductors:
NOTE: The lettering on U5 and U6 will be “up side down” when viewed with
this board ordination. Note the faint DOT indicating pin one on U5 and
the corresponding dot on the board. Look very carefully for the line on
the D3 diode indicating the cathode end.
Whether you use solder paste or hand solder, you will likely have shorts between the leads of U10 and U8. Use the
supplied solder wick to remove the shorts. Place the wick over the leads and apply heat with your iron. Be sure
to slide the wick off the pins along the leads, not across them.
U11: make sure you get the clock oscillator positioned correctly. Once soldered in place, it is very difficult to
remove. Also make sure you solder it well. Not making good connections to the little solder tab cups on the side
of the part has been a problem for some, likely due to have a soldering iron tip which is a little too big.
7
LOCATION PART # PACKAGE
U8 AD9834 TSSOP-20
U10 F2132 TSSOP-28
Q2 Red/702 SOT-23
D1 Yellow /A7 SOT-23
U1/U4 SA612A SO-8
U2 LM386 S0-8
U3 LM4808 SO-8
U9 74AC02 SO-14
D3 -- W8 2 leads
U6 lue/A5xx SOT23-5
U5 ---- CC5x SOT-23-6
U11 50.00 silver
Q3 2955 SOT-223
Remember, Q3 is in parts carrier, not loose
The last letter on U5 is a date code.
Resistors : Bottom
●Since part designation numbers for most parts are not printed on the board, you will need to use the
diagram to locate where the part goes. Pay careful attention to where the part is located to be sure it
doesn't go where a cap will go later.
●Resistor locations are highlighted in yellow. The number shown inside the outline is the same as marked
on body of part. Note that several resistors have four numbers printed on them, these a 1% values.
Resistors with three digits are 5%.
●Three inductors will also be installed with the resistors. These are packaged with the resistors, but are
larger and have no numbers printed on them. There are two values used, so they are color coded. The two
left over “orange” inductors will be used on the other side.
●There will be a number of resistors left over which go on the top side of the board. Put these aside in a
safe place until needed.
●The “approximate location ” in the table will help locate the position of the resistor values on the
board. upper/middle/lower is Y coordinates area while left/center/right is X coordinates.
●Resistors R1, R2 and R3 values depend on the band to be used see band value table below. The placement
diagram shows the location and values for the typical 40/30/20 band line up. You might decided to make
you band selection 40/20/17 or 30/20/17 etc. If you do an alternative band selection line up, you will
need to keep track of which filter parts go into the corresponding band slots later in assembly.
8
Value # places Approximate location
471 1 R4, upper/center
271 3 R7/11/16 upper/center
222 2 R1 Upper right,
R23 lower/center
392 1 upper/center
103 6 R2/5/9/14/17/22
223 4 R1/ R8/ R20/ R24
upper/center/lower left
104 2 R21/35 lower/center
334 1 R6 upper/left
NOTE The next two values
look alike – only the
last digit is different.
2671 1 R13 upper/left
2673 1 R10 upper/left
1133 1 R15 upper/left
lue 1 upper/right inductor.
Red 2 middle/right inductor.
and select values: R1/R2/R3 R3 = highest frequency band. Your band
combination values may vary from that shown on the diagram (40/30/20)
17M (R3) 51 ohm (510) [or 270 ohm {271} since
I ran out of enough 51 ohm resistors at
about 75 kits]
20M (R3) 2.2K (222)
30M (R2) 10K (103)
40M (R1) 22K (223)
Capacitors : Bottom
Capacitors are now numbered and color coded in a manor similar to through hole resistors so that their values are
more easily identified. The “sprocket” side the side with the holes) is the least significant digit. Therefore,
a 0.1 ufd cap will be numbered “104” and color coded Brown, Black, Yellow.
The colors on the layout diagram no longer relate directly to the colors on the capacitors, but are used simply
to make locating the location of caps with the same value easier. Match the value of the component written inside
the outline to the appropriate value as indicated by the color code on the chip carrier. Two digit values
3.3/22/47) will have only two colors on the carrier.
9
Value/highlight
on diagram
Color code
on part
#
places
3.3 Green GRN/GRN 3
22 pale green RED/RED 3
47 teal YEL/VOL 1
68 tanish Blue / Gray 1
101 purple BRN/BLK/BRN 8
102 yellow BRN/BLK/RED 10
103 pale blue BRN/BLK/ORG 14
223 blue RED/RED/ORG 1
104 pinkish BRN/BLK/YEL 4
106 red BRN/BLK/BLUE 1
TOP RESISTORS:
TOP CAPACITORS:
TOP Semiconductors:
10
Value # places location
510 1 R18
471 8 R25 to R32
103 1 R36
223 1 R19
1402 1 R34
104 1 R33
lue 2 (10 uH
inductor)
L1, L11
Value Color code # places
102 (yellow) RN/ LK/RED 1
103 (blue) RN/ LK/ORG 1
104 (purple) RN/ LK/YEL 3
CT1-7 Green trimmer 7
Note notched end of trimmer cap and match
with outline on board. Otherwise adjustment
screw will be “hot”.
Values for C48/C49/C50 depend on selected
band for that switch position.
40 M (C48) 68 lue/Gray
30 M (C49) 47 Yellow/Violet
20 M (C50 33 Orange/Orange/ lack
17 M (C50) 22 Red/Red
Value location
Red (702) Q1
---- tiny! W8 D2 Polarity!
MCP1703 U7 Don't confuse
with Q6!
2955 Q5 SOT-233 mosfet
7 seg display
Hand solder
LED
Display
Make sure
decimal point is in
lower right hand
corner. Once
soldered in place,
the display is
nearly impossible
to remove.
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