Hangar 9 J-3 Piper Cub Manual de usuario

Specifications

Wingspan: 80-1/8"

Wing Area: 850 sq. in.

Weight (Approx.): 6.5-7.0 lbs.

Recommended Engines:

.40-.46 2-Cycle

.45-.60 4-Cycle

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

Raising the Standard of Quality in

Almost Ready-To-Fly Aircraft

• Ultra Covering

• Pre-finished Fiberglass Cowl

• Highest Quality Craftsmanship

• 90% Pre-Built

• IMAA-Legal 80-1/8

Wingspan

ALMOST READY-TO-FLY

PRE-BUILT

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

Table of Contents

Introduction 3

Additional Equipment Required 4

Tools and Supplies Required 4

Section 1: Hinging The Aileron 5

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves 6

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos 8

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage 12

Section 5: Mounting The Wing 14

Section 6: Installing The Tail 17

Section 7: Hinging The Rudder 20

Section 8: Installing The Engine 22

Section 9: Landing Gear Assembly and Installation 25

Section 10: Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank 26

Section 11: Installing The Radio 28

Section 12: Installing The Linkages 29

Section 13: Attaching The Cowl 34

Section 14: Installing The Windows 35

Section 15: Scale Detailing 35

Section 16: Balancing the J-3 Piper Cub 38

Section 17: Control Throw Recommendation 39

Section 18: Flying the J-3 Piper Cub 39

Pre-Flight Check 40

Pre-Flight at the Field 41

AMA Safety Code 42

Cowl Template (for Saito .50 or .56) 43

Throughout aviation history, select few aircraft have achieved

such a level of popularity that they transcend their eras. Such is

the case of the J-3 Piper Cub. This timeless classic is perhaps

even more famous today than when it was first introduced to the

army (then known as an L-4) in the late '30s. 4 out of 5 pilots in

the Second World War are claimed to have gotten their initial

flight training behind the stick of the Cub.

Hangar 9’s J-3 Piper Cub offers traditional scale appearance in

an IMAA-legal size that can be powered with any standard

.40-.46 size 2-cycle engine. Or, for enhanced scale realism,

a .45-.55 4-cycle engine can be used to power this Cub.

Hangar 9’s J-3 Piper Cub comes 90% pre-built to a high level of

craftsmanship and is pre-covered and trimmed in Ultra covering.

This means you can have a large (80-1/8" span), high quality

scale J-3 Piper Cub, showing it to your friends at the field in 20

hours or less. Best of all, they’ll never know it’s an ARF, and

chances are they’ll compliment you on your building and

finishing skill. Don’t worry . . . we won’t tell!

An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious

bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas,

preferably AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying

sites, following all instructions included with your radio and

engine.

Introduction

Warning

Radio Equipment

4 Channels (minimum)

5 Standard Servos

Standard 450-650 mAh Receiver Battery Pack

Y-Harness

2 Servo Extensions

Engine Recommendations

.40-.46 2-Cycle Engines

.45-.55 4-Cycle Engines

Adhesives

Instant thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue

Thick CA glue

CA remover/debonder

White canopy glue (e.g., R/C 56 or Formula 560)

6 minute epoxy

12 minute epoxy

30 minute epoxy

Blue Locktite 242

Tools

Drill

Drill bits: 1/4", 1/8", 1/16", 3/32"

Small and medium Phillips screwdrivers

Z-bend pliers

Needle nose pliers

Pliers

Small round file

Adjustable wrench

Razor saw

Heat gun

Moto-Tool with sanding drum

Hobby knife with #11 blade

Mixing stick

Epoxy brush

Additional Equipment Required

Tools and Supplies Required

Saito .50GK

Recommended JR Systems

JR F400 FM

JR XF642FM/PCM

JR XP783

JR XP8103 FM/PCM

Recommended 2-Cycle Engines

Thunder Tiger Pro .40

Thunder Tiger Pro .46

Webra Speed .40 Sport

Recommended 4-Cycle Engines

Saito .50GK

Saito .50

Saito .56GK

Saito .56

Thunder Tiger

Pro .40

1/16" x 36" music wire

Medium sandpaper

Masking tape

Straight edge

Measuring device

(e.g., ruler, tape measure)

Scissors

Paper towels

Wax paper

Rubbing alcohol

Pencil

Felt tipped pen

Fuel tubing (optional)

Hobby enamel paint: black, silver

Saito .56GK

Right wing panel with aileron and hinges

Left wing panel with aileron and hinges

Note: The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevators

and rudder, are pre-hinged with the hinges installed, but the

hinges are not glued in place. It is imperative that you

properly adhere the hinges and ailerons in place per the steps

below using high quality thin CA.

❑1. Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing panels.

Note the position of the hinges. The J-3 Piper Cub comes

with high quality CA-type hinges, which are manufactured

in the USA.

❑2. Replace the aileron, making sure the hinges slide in place.

Deflect the aileron and apply a few drops of thin CA glue

directly to the center of each of the hinges. The aileron’s

front surface should lightly contact the wing during this

procedure. Ideally, when the hinge is glued in place, a

1/32" gap or less will be maintained throughout the length

of the aileron. The hinge is constructed of a special

material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and

distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the

wood structure.

❑3. Turn the wing panel over and deflect the aileron in the

opposite direction and from the opposite side. Apply

several drops of thin CA glue to each aileron hinge,

making sure that the CA penetrates into both the aileron

and the wing.

❑ 4. Using CA remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove

any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the

wing or in the aileron hinge area.

❑5. Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securely

hinging the aileron in place.

Section 1: Hinging The Ailerons

Instant thin CA glue

CA remover/debonder

Paper towels

Parts Needed Tools And Adhesives Needed

❑ 6. After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp the

wing and aileron to check that the hinges are immovable.

Do this by applying medium pressure, trying to separate

the aileron from the wing.

❑1. Locate the dihedral brace (also called the wing joiner).

Using a ruler, mark the exact center of the brace with a

pencil as shown in the photo below.

❑2. Trial fit the dihedral brace into one of the wing panels.

It should insert smoothly up to the center line marked in

Step 1. Now slide the other wing half onto the dihedral

brace until the wing panels meet. If the fit is overly tight,

it may be necessary to lightly sand the dihedral brace.

Section 1: Hinging The Ailerons

Right wing panel from Section One

Left wing panel from Section One

Dihedral brace

Trim Tape

30 minute epoxy

Masking tape

Paper towels

Rubbing alcohol

Wax Paper

Ruler

Pencil

Mediumsandpaper

Mixing stick

Parts Needed Tools And Adhesives Needed

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

CONTINUED

❑ 3. Next, check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the wing

on a large, flat surface with one wing panel resting on the

flat surface. The opposite wing tip should be exactly 2"

from the surface (see illustration below). If necessary,

sand the dihedral brace until this is achieved.

❑ 4. Mix up approximately three ounces of 30 minute epoxy.

Note: It is extremely important to use plenty of epoxy

when joining the wing halves.

❑ 5. Smear a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner

cavity of one wing half. A scrap piece of wood or mixing

stick is handy here.

❑ 6. Coat one half of the dihedral brace with epoxy up to the

pencil line drawn in Step 1. Note the orientation of the

V side of the dihedral brace; the V must face up. Install

the epoxy-coated side of the dihedral brace into the wing

joiner cavity of the wing half up to the center line, making

sure the V of the dihedral brace is positioned correctly.

❑7. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing cavity of

the other wing half.

❑8. Now apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area of the

dihedral brace and uniformly coat both wing roots with

epoxy.

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

CONTINUED

2 inches

❑ 9. Carefully slide the two wing halves together. Firmly press

the halves together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out.

Using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel, clean off the

excess epoxy. There should not be any gap between the

wing halves.

❑10.Apply masking tape at the wing joint to hold the wing

halves together securely. Place the wing on a large, flat

surface. With one wing panel lying flat on the surface, the

opposite wing tip should be propped up exactly 2" from

the surface. Apply more masking tape to the center wing

joint and recheck the 2" measurement. Allow the wing

joint to dry overnight.

Note: It is a good idea to place a sheet of wax paper under the

wing’s center joint so any excess epoxy doesn’t adhere to the

surface of the work area.

❑11.When the wing center joint is completely dry, remove the

masking tape and apply the included trim tape to cover the

center joint.

❑1. Hold the assembled wing up to a strong light. Note the

aileron servo cut-outs on the bottom side of each wing.

Using a very sharp hobby knife, carefully trim away the

covering material where the aileron servos will be

mounted.

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

CONTINUED

Assembled wing

Two standard size servos

w/mounting hardware

Y-harness

Servo extensions (2)

Wood servo blocks

w/screws

Aileron covers

Hobby knife

Small Phillips

screwdriver

Drill

1/16" drill bit

1/16"x36" music

wire

Masking tape

Scissors

Pencil

Felt tipped pen

30 minute epoxy

Parts Needed Tools And Adhesives Needed

2 inches

bottom of the wing

❑2. Install the grommets and eyelets on both aileron servos.

Now place the servo blocks on the servo as shown and

mark with a pencil where the servo screws attach the

servo to the blocks.

❑3. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the marked location on the

blocks.

❑4. Mount the blocks to the aileron servo as shown using the

screws included with your servos.

❑5. Using scissors, cut out the aileron cover. Also, using a

hobby knife cut out the opening where the linkage exits

the aileron cover.

❑6. Temporarily install a servo arm with a hole located

between 10-12mm out from the center on the servo as

shown. Now trial fit the servo on the aileron servo cover

as shown with the servo arm aligned in the middle of the

linkage opening in the aileron cover.

❑7. Using a felt tipped pen, trace around the wood servo

blocks where it contacts the aileron cover.

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

CONTINUED

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

CONTINUED

❑8. Now mark two equidistant holes as shown on the servo

cover where the servo blocks are to be mounted. Two

sheet metal screws, included with the J-3 Cub, will be

used to mount each block to the servo cover.

❑9. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the servo cover at the four

marked locations.

❑10.Holding the servo in place, drill four 1/16" pilot holes into

the wood servo blocks.

❑11.Using 30 minute epoxy, glue the servo blocks in place,

then screw them into position with 4 sheet metal screws.

❑12.Center the aileron cover over the aileron cut-out in the

wing and drill four 1/16" holes at each corner of the

aileron cover through the wing’s bottom surface.

❑13.Screw the aileron cover in place with four sheet metal

screws as shown.

❑14.Now repeat these steps to install the servo on the other

wing half.

❑15.Remove the aileron covers from the wing halves.

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