Extreme Flight YAK-54 ARF Manual de usuario

YAK-54 ARF

1.60 Class

Instruction Manual

Please take a few moments to read this instruction manual before

beginning assembly. We have outlined a fast, clear and easy method to

assemble this aircraft and familiarizing yourself with this process will

aid in a quick, easy build.

Please read the following paragraph before beginning assembly of your

aircraft!

THIS IS NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even

death may result from the misuse of this product. Extreme Flight RC is

providing you, the buyer with a very high quality model aircraft

component kit, from which you, the buyer, will assemble a flying model.

However it is beyond our control to monitor the finished aircraft you

produce. Extreme Flight RC will in no way accept or assume

responsibility or liability for damages resulting from the use of this user

assembled product. This aircraft should be flown in accordance to the

AMA safety code. It is highly recommended that you join the Academy

of Model Aeronautics in order to be properly insured, and to operate

your model at AMA sanctioned flying fields only. If you are not willing

to accept ALL liability for the use of this product, please return it to the

place of purchase immediately.

Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in

materials and workmanship for a period of 30 days from the date of

purchase. All warranty claims must be accompanied by the original

dated receipt. This warranty is extended to the original purchaser of

the aircraft kit only.

Extreme Flight RC in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter. We

have put these aircraft through the most grueling flight tests imaginable

and have not experienced any control surface flutter. Proper servo

selection and linkage set-up is absolutely essential. Inadequate servos or

improper linkage set up may result in flutter and possibly the complete

destruction of your aircraft. If you are not experienced in this type of

linkage set-up or have questions regarding servo choices, please contact

us. It is your responsibility to ensure the airworthiness of your model.

Thank you for your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC 1.60 classYAK-

54 ARF! The Yak-54 represents the state of the art in modern, high

performance aerobatic ARF aircraft technology. Highly refined and

thoroughly tested, the Extreme Flight Yak-54 is being brought to you as

a complete package, including all first rate hardware and components

and thorough instructions to ensure a trouble free assembly and set-up.

Weight saving components are used throughout, such as carbon fiber

reinforced balsa spars, carbon fiber wing and stab mounting tubes, and

a carbon fiber tail wheel assembly, all ensuring the lightest, most high

performance aircraft possible.

The performance ability of the Extreme Flight RC Yak-54 is

phenomenal! With its low weight and enormous control surfaces, the

Yak-54 is a 3D monster, capable of all current 3D maneuvers as well as

possessing the ability to forge new ground in this exciting new style of

flying. The Yak is also a top notch precision aerobatic machine. It is

capable of performing the entire FAI catalog of maneuvers and it has

the kind of “big plane” presence in the air that will impress the judges.

This makes the 1.60 Yak-54 ARF a great candidate for all classes of

IMAC competition.

We have spent a great deal of time and effort to provide you, the

discriminating aerobatic enthusiast, with the highest quality, most

complete package possible. We are very proud of the end result of our

labor and wish you great success with the assembly and flying of your

Extreme Flight RC 1.60 Yak-54!

A few tips to ensure success

1. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship displayed by

the builders in our factory. Through hundreds of grueling test

flights containing maneuvers that no aircraft should be subjected

to, our Yak prototypes have remained rigid and completely

airworthy. However, it is impossible for us to inspect every glue

joint in the aircraft. Take a few minutes and apply some medium

CA to high stress areas such as servo mounting trays , landing

gear blocks, anti rotation pins, etc. We like to use the Bob Smith

Industries IC-2000 on the servo trays. This is some amazing glue!

2. Having survived the journey half way around the world while

experiencing several climate changes, it is not uncommon for a

few wrinkles to develop in the covering. Fear not! These are not

manufacturing defects, and are easily removed with a little bit of

heat. Use a 100% cotton tee-shirt and your heat gun and heat the

covering while gently rubbing the covering onto the wood with the

t-shirt. Be careful not to use too much heat as the covering may

shrink too much and begin to lift at the edges. Take your time,

and a beautiful, paint like finish is attainable.

3. By the time the Yak arrives at your door step it will have been

handled by a lot of people. Occasionally there are small dings or

imperfections on some of the surfaces. A neat trick to restore

these imperfections to original condition is to use a very fine

tipped hypodermic needle to inject a drop of water under the

covering material and into the ding in the wood. Apply heat to

the area with a sealing iron and the imperfection will disappear.

Deeper marks may require that this process be repeated a couple

of times to achieve the desired result, but you will be surprised at

how well this technique works.

4. DO NOT SKIMP ON SERVOS! The Yak-54 is equipped with

very large control surfaces that deflect over 45 degrees. A lot of

servo power is required to prevent flutter and to maintain the

required deflection for maneuvers. We absolutely recommend the

use of METAL GEAR servos with a minimum of 100 oz. in of

torque. We have had great success with the Hitec HS-5645 servos

in our prototypes. We are using the new HS-5985 for the rudder,

and recommend this servo or the JR 8611 for this position.

5. Use a high quality epoxy for installing the composite control horns

and hinges. We highly recommend the use of Pacer Z-Poxy 30

minute formula. We have used this glue for many years with zero

failures.

6. You may want to add a bead of silicone glue (Pacer Zap-A-DAP-

A-GOO, etc.) to the intersection of the plastic canopy/hatch and

its wood frame for additional strength and resistance to vibration.

DO NOT USE CA here as it will fog the canopy.

7. Add a fillet of epoxy over the hatch pin mechanism where it

mounts to the turtledeck and plywood former on the front of the

turtledeck. Be careful not to get any epoxy on the actual hatch

pin.

Let’s Begin!

Elevator Assembly

1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer/elevator assemblies as well as the

composite control horns and base pieces from the elevator hardware

package.

2. Use a sharp #11 blade to open the 2 slots near the bottom leading

edge of the elevator.

3. Insert the 2 control horns into the base plate as shown in the

following picture.

4. Carefully insert the control horns into the slots and push down until

the base plate is flush with the control surface. Use a fine tipped felt

marker to trace the outline of the base plate onto the covering.

Remove the control horn assembly. Use a sharp #11 hobby blade to

remove the covering 1/16” inside the lines you drew. Do not cut

into an open bay area. Make your cut only where there is

sheeting below the covering.

5. Use some denatured alcohol to remove any residue or oils from the

composite control horns and base plate. If you wish to paint the

control horns for a more finished appearance now is the time to do

so. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy (add a little milled fiberglass if

you have it) and fill the 2 slots in the elevator with epoxy. Use an

old #11 blade to force glue into the slot and make sure they are

thoroughly coated with epoxy. Us an epoxy brush to thoroughly

coat both sides of each control horn as well as the bottom of the base

plate. Use an abundance of glue here, as any excess will be forced

out of the slot when you insert the horns.

6. Insert the horns and push them into the slots until they are seated

flush with the base plate and the base plate is flush with the control

surface. Use some denatured alcohol and paper towels to remove

the excess glue and inspect the assembly. When satisfied set this

assembly aside to dry. Repeat this process for the other elevator

half.

7. Remove the covering from the holes for the hinges. We use an old

soldering iron for this and it works well. Locate 3 hinges per

elevator half.

8. In this step I will outline the procedure we use to install the hinges.

There are several ways to do this and several adhesives you can use.

We will describe the way we do it, as this method has proven itself

over many years of model building. If you are new to this type of

hinging process then I recommend that you install a single hinge

first just to acquaint yourself with this method. Before starting the

process get a few items together that will aid you as you proceed.

You will need the following items: 30 minute epoxy (again, we

recommend Pacer Z-Poxy ), a scrap piece of pushrod or 1/8” dowel,

paper towels and denatured alcohol. Mix a generous batch of 30

minute epoxy. Use the pushrod or dowel to thoroughly coat and fill

the hinge hole with epoxy, then coat the hinge with epoxy. Push the

hinge into its hole until the joint is about a ¼” from its final position

and use a paper towel to remove the excess epoxy that has been

forced from the hole. Push the hinge the rest of the way in and make

sure the hinge pin is centered in the hinge line. Use some denatured

alcohol and a paper towel to remove all excess epoxy, especially on

the hinge pin. When you are satisfied with the result set the surface

aside to dry. Position the drying piece so that any excess epoxy will

pool around the rear of the hinge.

9. When you are comfortable with this process you should be able to

do one side of a surface per batch of epoxy. Glue all hinges into the

stabilizer first. After the glue has set trial fit the elevator to the stab

and adjust if necessary. There should be as little gap as possible

between the stab and elevator. When satisfied with the fit remove

the elevator and repeat the gluing process outlined above. Be sure to

wipe away all excess epoxy! Set aside to dry. Repeat this process

for the other stab/elevator half.

10. After the hinges have dried thoroughly, pull on them to make sure

they are properly installed. The hinges will probably feel a little stiff

as it is almost impossible to get all of the glue out of the joint. Use a

fine tipped hypodermic needle and place one (only one!) drop of

acetone on each side of the hinge pin. Move the elevator back and

forth a few times and you will feel it loosen up. Be careful to only

use one drop as you don’t want to weaken the glue joint! Add a

drop of penetrating oil to each hinge pin and you will ensure a

smooth operating surface with no binding. Seal the bottom of the

hinge gap with a strip of Ultracote or clear packing tape. Be sure to

fully deflect the control surface when applying the tape or Ultracote

to allow full deflection once the gap is sealed.

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