Wild Hare R/C Cap 232 Manual de usuario

Wild Hare R/C

Cap 232 28% and 31%

Assembly Manual

For assistance contact Wild Hare R/C

6508 Cardinal Drive, Flower Mound Texas 75022

817-430-0107 Fax 817-490-1279

Email [email protected]

Preliminary edition rev. 1.01 March 6, 2006

please report errors to tom@wildharerc.com

Warranty Information

Wild Hare R/C, division of Wild Hare Hobbies, Inc. guarantees this kit

to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the time of

purchase. This warranty does not cover any components damaged by

use or modification. In no case shall Wild Hare Hobbies, Inc. liabil-

ity exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further Wild Hare

Hobbies Inc, reserves the right to change or modify this warranty with-

out notice. This warranty extends only to the original purchase.

In that Wild Hare has no control over final assembly or materials used

in final assembly, no liability shall be assumed or accepted for any

damage resulting from the use by user of the final user assembled prod-

uct. By the act of using the user assembled product, the user accepts all

resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the

use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in

new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane

will be used for extremely high stress flying such as racing the modeler

is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

Read through this manual before starting construction. It

contains important warnings and instructions concerning

the assembly and use of this model.

Warning. This is not a toy. If not properly con-

trolled it can cause injury or death and property

damage.

Specifications

Wingspan 85 inches (91 inches optional)

Length 77 inches tail to cowl face

Wing Area 1350 sq. inches (1520 sq. inches on 91” wings)

Weight 16-18 lbs . (18-21 lbs 91” version)

Recommended engine (85”) 50 to 62 cc gasoline engine

(91”) 58 to 80cc gasoline engine

weight not to exceed 5 lbs.

Additional equipment required

Computer Radio with at least 8 channels strongly recommended

2 Elevator servos minimum 120 oz/in. of torque each e.g. Hitec HS5645 or 5945

2 aileron servos, total torque required not less than 120 oz./in. per wing.

Rudder servo(s) at least 180 oz./in. (see text) e.g. Hitec 5955TG or JR 8611a

Throttle/choke servo standard BB servo such as Hitec 425

Radio operated engine kill switch or servo operated choke strongly suggested

Single or dual radio battery packs at least 2100 mah total, preferably high current output cells.

Total capacity will be based on how much flight time is required.

Switch[es] for receiver batteries 2 or 3

Miscellaneous servo extensions. 2x24”, 4x12”, 2x18” typical

The kit includes lightweight foam wheels and axles. These are light duty and may not last more

than a few flights, stronger wheels and axles are in our hardware kit. It also includes a tailwheel

assembly, wing tube (carbon fiber tube on 91” planes) and miscellaneous small hardware for

mounting the cowl, wings, stabs, and landing gear.

Please remember, this is a big airplane with high stresses on the controls. You must use high

performance servos, pushrods, linkages, horns, etc. Flexing in linkage or loose hinges can

and will cause flutter of the control surfaces which will destroy the airplane in just a few

seconds.

Metal gear servos are required. Proper installation of hinges

is critical.

Optional Accessories

Wild Hare R/C makes available accessories that can enhance this kit’s usefulness.

Hardware kit. Your kit has some basic hardware, but our hardware kit includes

all the things you need to assemble the Cap 232 except for engine, muffler, spin-

ner, glue, prop, and electronics. The hardware kit is from US suppliers and all the

hardware has been tested to be completely compatible with our kits. it contains;

3 sets of HD control horns (based on Dubro parts)

6 Sullivan golden clevises with retainer clips

Carbon fiber pushrod materials to make pushrods as explained in this manual.

Wild Hare pull-pull kit for rudder

3 1/2” Dubro or Sullivan wheels and 3/16” axles and 4 wheel collars..

24 oz. gas tank (or smaller if requested), Dubro plus tygon line, tee, and fuel dot

2-56 throttle and choke pushrods with nylon clevises

Many miscellaneous small parts such as nuts, washers, horns, springs, etc.

Spinner. The Cap 232 requires a 4” spinner. Wild Hare normally keeps Dave

Brown Vortec spinners in stock, they are cut to fit a large prop such as a 22-10

Menz, and are normally available drilled for a DA-50 and a 6 bolt pattern as is

used on 3w, Evolution, etc.

Switches. The Cap 232 has holes laser cut in the fuse sides to accept the Maxx

products charge-jack switch, a very nice way to switch your receiver and ignition

batteries.

Servos. Wild Hare sells servos from Hitec and JR. We have flown the planes with

servos ranging from the economical Hitec 645 to the JR 8611 and Hitec

5945/5955. We have found that better servos really do make a plane fly better, and

we recommend that you use the best servos that you can afford no matter where

you buy them.

Carbon-fiber wing tube is stronger and lighter than the supplied aluminum tube.

The CF tube is standard on the 91” planes.

Pilot and instrument panel dresses the plane up and is required to avoid penalty

in in upper IMAC classes.

Table of Contents

Steps Subject

1 Open and inspect everything

2 Mount the engine

3 Hinge the control surfaces

4 Install the control horns

5 Mount the hatch and canopy

6 Mount the horizontal stabilizers

7 Install the servos

8 Install the landing gear

9 Install a fuel tank and fuel system**

10 Mount the radio equipment**

11 Hook up the engine control linkage**

12 Mount the wings

13 Check and adjust balance

14 Control throw adjustment

** These Items require user supplied materials and creativity. These steps as-

sume that the user will be installing mounts, retainers, and other assemblies to

suit his particular building style. For example no servo mount is supplied for

the throttle, we have no way of knowing what type of engine you will use or

what is the best location for the throttle servo.

If you need advice on any of this, call us or email [email protected] and

we’ll be happy to try to try to answer your questions.

28% Cap 232 Assembly Manual

Step 1. Open and inspect everything

This section should be fairly self explanatory.

In the large box you should have a fuselage with hatch., wing tube and stab tube, the eleva-

tor/stab assemblies, the rudder, cowl, wheel pants, canopy, landing gear and packages with

the tail wheel assembly miscellaneous nuts and bolts. The hinges are installed in the eleva-

tors and ailerons, but they are not glued, you have to do that. The hinges for the rudder are

packed separately. We have had good luck with Pro-bond Ultimate and Gorilla glue, both of

which are glues that expand as they dry cure and fill the voids in the hinges and their sock-

ets.

Check everything for shipping damage and/or manufacturing defects. If there is a problem,

report it to us NOW, not after you start building the plane. SAVE ALL PACKAGING

UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THERE IS NO DAMAGE< PACKAGING IS REQUIRED

FOR ANY DAMAGE CLAIM.

Before proceeding to any assembly, now is a good time to go over the whole plane and fix

any cosmetic flaws. Some cosmetic flaws are to be expected, this fact is reflected in the

price.

Known issues and improvements

There are a few areas where, at this unassembled stage, you can improve the final results of

your assembly project. There are many items that cannot be addressed on the assembly line

due to cost and possibly because not every improvement would be welcomed by every

builder. Here are a few items that have come up over time.

First, check the fit of wings and stabs to the fuse. Now is the time to report any problems.

Go over the covering with a heat gun or iron. The covering tends to get loose over time

and with changes in temperature and humidity. It may have come out of the box with wrin-

kles, I can assure you it did not go into the box that way. Also, In particular use a covering

iron to iron down all covering edges, this is an area where production line built airplanes

always need help. Pay close attention to the leading edges of the wings and stabs, be sure

there are no forward facing seams. A piece of transparent packing tape can be a big help to

seal along the LE if there is an exposed seam.

Clean out the hinge holes. Without removing any wood, use a very sharp X-acto knife and re-

move any covering that may have been pushed into the hinge holes. It is very important that the

glue sticks to the wood and not to the covering. See the section on hinging before you do this.

Hardening holes. The fuselage sides on this plane are made of balsa which in certain areas is

doubled by lite ply. The control horn hard points are made of a soft pine or fir type wood. Any

soft wood like this will benefit from hardening with thin CA. It’s a good idea whenever you

drill a hole that must accept a wood screw or the hinge screws to put a drop (or more) of thin

CA into the hole and then if necessary re-drill the hole. The CA will wick into the wood and

harden it, adding strength in that area.

Canopy Hold Down — The canopy hatch as supplied is held on with 4-40 socket head screws

which screw into blind nuts that are pre-installed. We found in testing that these tend to un-

screw when subjected to vibration. The most reliable fix for this is to use a nylon screw

threaded directly into the wood. The text covers how to do this.

Firewall reinforcement — First, be sure the firewall is properly glued, this is one weak spot of

assembly line construction.

Set the fuselage on its side on an angle with the nose down. Put something under it, glue may

drip. Dribble thin CA into the joint between the firewall and the motorbox side. Let it dry, then

repeat until the wood will no longer absorb any Ca. Turn the fuse over and repeat.

Next, do this if you are using a heavier engine. You will find in the kit a piece of aircraft ply the

same size as the rear surface of the engine mount firewall. This ply should be laminated to the

back of the firewall with good quality epoxy to stiffen the firewall for use with larger/heavier

engines. After installing the ply laminate it’s a good idea to install triangle stock in the corners

where the firewall meets the sides, also with epoxy.

If using a light engine (da-50, zdz-50, Brison 3.2) the triangle stock in the corners is still a

good idea. On the 85” planes if you find that the plane is tail heavy when you balance it rein-

forcing the firewall is a good use of any added weight.

Re-glue servo trays — One of the areas that the factory can do better is gluing the servo trays.

You should use some thin CA to securely glue these into the fuse and wings. Servo trays are

under a lot of stress, be sure they are secure.

28% Cap 232 Assembly Manual

Step 2. Engine mounting

The first thing to do, before anything else goes in the fuselage, is to get the engine mounted and

aligned with the cowl. Here’s how I have done it. This is the hardest and most time consuming

step in building this plane. If you can do this everything else should be easy. Do this first before

you hinge the rudder.

Note that the firewall already has a proper amount of right thrust built in, do not use any other

offsets. When you shim the engine out from the firewall use shims of equal thickness on all 4

corners so that you do not introduce any other thrust angles.

With no cowl or hatch on the fuse find a place in your workshop

where you can stand the fuselage up on its tail so that the motor

mount is pointing at the ceiling. Secure the fuse so it stands like

that and won’t fall over. I wrap masking tape around it and tape

it to the side of the workbench.

Set the engine on it’s rear radial mount (assuming it has one) on

the motor mount firewall so the crankshaft is pointing up at the

ceiling. Some single cylinder engines will sit nicely on their mo-

tor mount plate on the firewall, others have too much weight in

the cylinder and will fall over. If yours falls you will need some

method of keeping the engine sitting on its mounting lugs with-

out falling over. In the photo at the right we are showing an en-

gine with its cylinder removed, we do not suggest this method

but it sure does make it easy.

A simpler solution to the problem is to put good quality double sided tape on the firewall ap-

proximately where the mounting lugs will sit. The sticky surface will hold the engine in place

and keep it from tipping over.

When using the Evolution 58 if you do not have standoffs already made you will need to cut 4

pieces of dowel 2 inches long out of 3/4” oak available at Home Depot. Use a sheet metal screw

to attach the dowels to the mount lugs to use during the alignment process.

Now mount the cowl using the supplied screws and washers. The hardware kit has rubber

backed bonded washers to keep the cowl screws from vibrating loose. If you are using a single

cylinder engine it may be necessary to cut out the cowling to clear the cylinder to mount the

cowl, but most singles will fit in the Cap cowl by just removing the spark plug. Cut a little bit at

a time rechecking clearance until the cowl will fit over and mount on the cowl.

Mount the cowl using the supplied screws and washers. Place your spinner back plate over the

crankshaft or prop bolt so that it is centered. You can now just move the engine around to get

the spinner back plate centered on the cowl face.

Once the spinner back plate and engine are in the right po-

sition, remove the cowl and mark the location where the

engine is standing before removing it. You can now drill

the engine’s actual mounting holes in the firewall.

The final step is to install the engine using either blind nuts

behind the firewall or, as we show with a DA-50, bolts

through the back of the firewall into the standoffs supplied

with the engine or which you have made or bought elsewhere. Fine adjust the engine spacing so

that the spinner back plate fits perfectly by leaving the standoffs a little short and using washers

to set the final spacing.. Remember that the firewall is already set with proper thrust angles,

any drilling must be square to the firewall and not parallel with the fuselage line.

Like I said, the rest is very easy.

The photos on this page show a different airplane but the idea is the same.

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