Vintage Model Co MESSERSCHMITT BF109 Manual de usuario
MESSERSCHMITT BF109
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Messerschmitt BF109
THE MESSERSCHMITT BF109
– A MENACING MACHINE
The Messerschmitt BF109 (often called the ME109)
was designed by Willy Messerschmitt and Robert
Lusser of Bayerische Flugzeugwerke (BFW) – later
to become Messerschmitt AG.
The aircraft rst ew in 1935 ironically powered by
a Rolls Royce Kestrel engine as the intended Jumo
engine was not ready. It was designed specically
to take part in a Luftwaffe competition to select
a new ghter aircraft as Germany rearmed in
contravention of the treaty of Versailles. Technically
advanced, it won the competition by some
margin; it would take Focke Wulf, one of the rival
companies, until 1941 to catch up and arguably
surpass the ME109 with the Focke Wulf 190.
The all metal monocoque design had many
innovative features including two large magnesium
alloy forgings that held the engine and the
undercarriage, meaning that the lightly constructed
wings did not have to carry landing loads and could
easily be removed for transport or repair. This
feature, although efcient, left the undercarriage
with a distinctive narrow ‘splayed’ track, resulting
in poor stability whilst landing and taxiing, killing
or injuring many German pilots. The ME109 was
continually developed during the entirety of the war
with nearly 34,000 built, more than any other ghter
in history.
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YOUR KIT
This kit is designed for you to build a traditionally
constructed, rubber powered, free ight model of a
Daimler Benz powered ME109E (Emil). ME109Es
were painted in a myriad of schemes, most of
which were complicated and not in block colours
and would be difcult to achieve with a rubber-
powered scale model such as this. Therefore the kit
is provided with the materials (other than paints) to
complete a simple block colour scheme to capture
the spirit of the aircraft as would have fought in The
Battle of Britain. Alternatively you can decide to do
your own favourite or more complicated scheme if
you wish.
Construction of the model from this kit uses the
traditional method of ‘stick and tissue’, that consists
of a built up balsa wood skeleton (framework),
covered with a tissue skin. The balsa frameworks
are built over a plan that is printed at the exact
scale of the model, which is in essence a real
engineering drawing.
Power is provided by rubber strip motor that is
wound up before ight. Free ight means just that –
once the model is launched, it is on its own. It must
follow a predetermined ight path established when
the model is initially adjusted for ight or ‘trimmed’.
This type of traditional building technique and
ying requires a degree of patience and skill, but is
extremely rewarding.
The ME109 is just one of a series of kits designed
and manufactured by the Vintage Model Company.
Aeromodelling was very popular from the 1950s
until the 1980s and following a decline and the loss
of UK manufacturers such as FROG, KeilKraft and
Veron, a revival is now underway. The advent of
modern technology such as laser cutting of parts
and the growth of the internet giving access to
information on the skills and techniques required
to successfully build and y these models, means
new enthusiasts are discovering the joys of
aeromodelling every day.
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Messerschmitt BF109
Typically for a small model and in the spirit of the
traditional kits, proles are simplied and adjusted
from the original and a relatively large propeller
is used. This is done so that the model is light
and stable enough to y on its own, is simple in
construction and can work with the rubber motor.
These adjustments have been done with care and
sensitivity so that the shape and spirit of the original
aircraft is preserved as much as possible. Also in the
spirit of the traditional kits, additional items required
to build the model are things that can be found in the
kitchen drawer or are easily available on the high street.
KIT CONTENTS
• Three balsa sheets with precise laser cut parts
and strip wood.
• PVA glue for building the wooden frames.
• One 150mm diameter plastic propeller.
• One pre-bent motor hook and shaft.
• Three low friction plastic ‘nose’ bushings
– one for the propeller and two for the
undercarriage wheels.
• One vacuum formed canopy and spinner.
• Piano wire for the main undercarriage and tail
wheel legs.
• One motor peg (cocktail stick or toothpick).
• Rubber motor strip.
• Tissue to cover the model.
• Parts reference sheet (W), full size summary plan
sheet (X), scheme diagram sheet (Y) and scheme
markings (Z) printed on lightweight paper.
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OTHER THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED
CONSUMABLES
• Glue. ‘Cyano’ (sometimes called ‘superglue’),
quick setting epoxy and a ‘glue stick’.
• Cling lm or waxed paper to cover your plan or a
wax candle to rub over it.
• One sheet of standard printer paper (80gsm).
• Tissue sealant – if you want to y your model
outdoors (see ‘Covering’ for details).
• Paints (Humbrol-style enamels) if you want to
give your model an authentic scheme.
TOOLS
• A at piece of wood or cork that is large enough for
the largest part of the model and soft enough for
pins to be pushed into.
• Some modelling pins. If these aren’t available,
dress making pins or drawing pins with tall heads
will sufce.
• A sharp craft knife or scalpel.
• Pliers and wire cutters.
• 180 and 600 grit sandpaper and a small sanding
block, or a disposable nail le with rough and
smooth sides.
• A small engineers square or a plastic set square
from a school geometry set.
• 30cm rule (preferably steel).
• ‘Blu-Tack’ or plasticine.
• A ne marker pen.
• Brushes – one thin and ne, one at and soft
10-12mm wide.
• An old perfume bottle or similar that can deliver
a ne mist of tap water.
• Some sprung wooden clothes pegs to use as clamps.
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Messerschmitt BF109
THE PLAN, GENERAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES,
TERMS, HINTS AND TIPS
The plan provides most instructions for the
construction of the major components.
Major components are all built over the outlines
on the plan provided.
Cover your plan with cling lm or waxed paper or
rub it all over with a wax candle to stop the parts
sticking to it.
There are some terms used on the plan that you
may not be familiar with:
• Laminate: This means to make a glued sandwich
of various parts, often with the grain of the parts
crossed to make a single thicker and stronger
part. When laminating, ensure that the parts are
held together or weighted down and are aligned
according to the plan instructions. Make sure that
you remove excess glue that squishes out, as not
doing so can make the parts harder to sand and
in internal corners, may leave an undesirable
glue ‘llet’.
• Cut through section: This is simply a way of
showing parts on the plan in more detail – as if
you had cut through the parts on the line shown.
The parts that are ‘cut’ are shown ‘cross hatched’.
• Bevel: This means to angle the edges of a part,
usually by sanding.
SAFETY
This kit is not a toy and as such is not suitable for
children below the age of 14. Read and follow
any instructions and warnings given on the
various glues, adhesives and paints, etc. When
ying your model, follow the guidelines in the
section ‘Trimming and ying your model’.
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TIPS TO MAKE A GOOD JOB OF YOUR MODEL
Read and follow the instructions and the plan carefully.
• A light model will y much better than a heavy
one, so use glues and adhesives sparingly. Work
neatly and remove excess adhesive that squishes
out from joints – glue weighs far more than the
balsa wood! A piece of stiff 1.6mm square scrap
wood with the end cut at an angle makes an ideal
scraper to remove excess glue from corners or slots.
• To avoid losing the parts, remove them from the
laser cut sheets only when you need them. Use
the parts reference sheet to identify the required
part(s). Keep what remains of the balsa sheets
once the parts have been removed. This ‘ scrap’
can be useful later to replace a broken part, or
make other detailed parts of your choosing.
• Balsa wood is very delicate – a light touch is
required and this is especially true when sanding.
If you have not sanded balsa before, practice on
the scrap edges of the balsa sheets. You will be
surprised by how quickly the material is removed!
• When using glue (especially cyano), don’t use it
from the tube directly. Instead, drop some onto
a non-porous disposable surface such as clean
foil from a yoghurt pot lid. Alternatively, save
pistachio nut shells – one held upright and rm
on a piece of Blu-Tack or plasticine makes an
ideal disposable glue container. You can then
pick up precise amounts of glue on the end of
a pin or piece of wire to apply to the parts. This
saves overuse of the glue and the potential
embarrassment of sticking yourself or other items
to your model!
• All of the contact surfaces of the parts to be
joined should be covered in glue.
• To remove the balsa parts, cut through the tabs
that join them to the sheets with a sharp craft
knife or scalpel – do not try to snap them from the
sheets as they may split. Remove the remains of
the tab with a light sanding.
• Some parts have a laser engraved letter ‘T’
on them – this means that the part should be
orientated with the letter T to the top when it is
correctly assembled.
• If you decide to paint your model, then use paint
sparingly. It is very easy to add weight with paint
and your model will not y well if it is too heavy.
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Messerschmitt BF109
• The balsa sheets are graded. Sheet 1 is hard and
strong but heavy – it is used for parts where strength
is in preference to weight. Sheets 2 and 3 are weaker
and softer but light and are used for parts where
lightness is key, obviously at the expense of strength.
There are long lengths of cut balsa (known as strip)
on both the ‘light’ and ‘heavy’ sheets, so use strip
wisely and as suggested by the instructions to make
things as strong and light as possible.
• Never push pins through the balsa parts or strip –
it will weaken them or cause the wood to split. Use
pins each side of the parts either angling them or
using the head to hold the parts down.
• Never force a part to t – check and adjust it until
it ts snugly but without force.
• Pin parts together tightly but be careful not to crush
or damage the wood – a tight joint is a strong one.
• Trial t the parts before gluing and carefully adjust
them if required. They are cut accurately, but
small errors can occur between the parts and the
printed plan. Wood is a natural material and its
thickness may vary – it will contract and/or expand
after the parts are laser cut.
• You can work on several parts at one time.
For instance, you can make up the wheels and
undercarriage at the same time as something else
is setting. Just make sure you read through the
instructions rst and follow a logical sequence.
• If you have never bent wire parts before, then grab
a few paper clips and practice on those with your
pliers, before committing to bend the (expensive)
piano wire in the kit. Use a ne Sharpie marker to
mark the position of each bend as you go along.
• The internet contains a huge amount of
information to help you build your model.
Searching for terms such as ‘free ight scale’ and
‘stick and tissue’ will yield example builds and a lot
of useful information to help you with your build.
• Above all… take your time!
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MAIN PARTS AND FRAMES
BUILDING SCHEDULE
THE MAIN WING PANELS
1) Identify and remove one set of parts in the
following quantities from the laser cut sheets:
1 off each W1-W7, R1-R7, R2A, special
corner gussets L1, L2, T1 and T2 and 3 off
corner gussets.
2) On the left hand wing outline, pin down the
leading and trailing edges W1 and W2, along
with a stiff 1.6mm square strip that forms the
lower wing spar, noting that the spar nishes
inside the notch of R7.
3) Trial t the inner and outer ribs R2 and R7, then
once you are satised, t and glue all of the ribs
(not R1), making sure that they are upright and
properly located in the lower spar, leading and
trailing edges.
4) Glue in position R1, quickly followed by W5,
using the angled face to tilt rib R1. This sets the
dihedral angle.
5) In the two ‘bays’ between R2 to R3 and R3 to R4,
t the parts W6 and W7 on top of the lower spar
as shown on the plan.
6) Fit a stiff 1.6mm square strip as the upper spar,
noting that it runs from the notch of R7 and
nishes at the notch at R1.
7) Glue in position parts R2A ensuring that the
joints are snug and strong.
8) Glue tip pieces W3 and W4 in position, along
with special corner gussets L1, L2, T1 and T2 and
plain corner gussets.
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