Tower Hobbies UPROAR Manual de usuario

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

V 1.4 TUP4P02

Wing Span: 48 in.

Wing Area: 573 sq. in. Weight: 3.5 to 4 lb.

Length: 42 in. Wing Loading: 14 to 16 oz./sq. ft.

Engine: .32 –.56 2-stroke

WARRANTY

Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from

defects in both materials and workmanship at the date of

purchase. This warranty does not cover any component

parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall

Tower’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased

kit. Further, Tower reserves the right to change or modify

this warranty without notice.

In that Tower has no control over the final assembly or

material used for final assembly, no liability shall be

assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the

use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the

act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts

all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability

associated with the use of this product, they are advised to

return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to

Tower Hobbies.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK BEFORE

BEGINNING CONSTRUCTION.THIS BOOKLET CONTAINS

WARNINGS AND PRECAUTIONS REGARDING THE USE

OF THIS PRODUCT.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION ............................. 3

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES....................................... 4

DIE PATTERNS ................................................................... 5

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES............................................... 6

BUILD THE WING ............................................................. 8

BUILD THE FUSELAGE .................................................... 12

FINAL ASSEMBLY............................................................. 15

COVERING AND FINISHING.......................................... 16

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS..................................... 18

PREFLIGHT ...................................................................... 21

FLYING ............................................................................ 22

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION TO

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS.

Your UPROAR is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated,

working model that functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the UPROAR, if not

assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause

injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we

recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with

assembly and during your first flights. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to solo.

Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in

your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model

Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered

clubs across the country. Through any one of them, instructor

training programs and insured newcomer training are

available.

Contact the AMA at the address or

toll-free phone number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

TEL: (800) 435-9262

FAX: (317) 741-0057

Congratulations!

If you have been looking for a way to put the FUN back

into your Sunday flying, you have just found it with the

Uproar. The Uproar is a nimble little hot-dogger that assembles

fast and is easy on the budget. The Uproar does not require

any special building or flying skill – just traditional building

methods and a little tail-dragger time.

With its oversized control surfaces it turns, loops and

rolls in the blink of an eye. But the thick airfoil and light wing

loading allow the plane to slow way down for gentle spot

landings. If equipped with an engine like the Tower .40, it’s

possible to be airborne in a matter of feet, zip through three

rolls, and loop back for a landing before most of your buddies

are off the ground. What more can we say? The Uproar is the

most flying fun you can buy regardless of the cost.

ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION

HARDWARE: We recommend using Great Planes®, Hobbico®and

Tower brand accessories for your modeling needs.

❍4-Channel radio with 5 servos and a Y-harness

❍.32 - .55 2-Stroke / .40 - .56 4-Stroke

❍Engine mount – GPMG1041

❍(4) 4-40 x 1" Machine screws / blind nuts – GPMQ3544

❍(4) Faslink Pushrod Connectors (optional) – GPMQ3820

❍4 - 8 oz. Fuel tank – DUBQ0204, 0206, 0208

❍(2) 2-1/2" Wheels – DUBQ0875

❍(4) 5/32" Wheel collars – GPMQ4306

❍1" Tail wheel – GPMQ4241

❍(2) 3/32" Wheel collars – GPMQ4302

❍12" Medium fuel tubing – GPMQ4131

❍(2) Rolls covering film – TowerKote Film

❍(16) Hinges – GPMQ3950

❍24" Flexible pushrod cable and tube (throttle) – GPMQ3700

❍(2) Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors – GPMQ3870

SUPPLIES

❍2 oz. Thin CA – TOWR3800 ❍Masking Tape

❍2 oz. Medium CA – TOWR3801 ❍Waxed paper

❍2 oz. Thick CA – TOWR3802 ❍Clothespins

❍6-minute epoxy – TOWR3806 ❍Isopropyl Rubbing

❍30-minute epoxy – TOWR3810 Alcohol (70%)

❍Balsa filler – HCAR3401

0 102030405060 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"0"

TOOLS

❍Sanding block and paper – GPMR6170

❍Hobby knife and #11 blades – RMXR6900

❍Single edge razor blades – HCAR0312

❍Razor saw (optional)

❍Razor plane – MASR1510

❍Electric drill

❍Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers

❍Pliers with wire cutter

❍Sealing iron – TOWR3250

❍Heat gun – TOWR3200

❍T-Pins – HCAR5150

❍Straightedge with scale

Drill bits: ❍1/16" ❍3/16" ❍5/32" ❍1/8" ❍1/4"

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

• Unroll the plan sheets, then reroll the plans inside-out to

make them lie flat.

• Using a felt-tip or ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name

or size on each piece as you remove it from the box. Refer to

the parts list and plans for sizes and quantities. Use the die-

cut patterns shown on page 5 to identify the die-cut parts and

mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all

scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do

not force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby

knife or lightly sand the back of the sheet. After removing the

die-cut parts, use your sanding block to lightly sand the

edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

• Work on a flat surface over the plans. Cover the plans with

waxed paper. There are notes on the plans that tell you

what material to use to make each part.

• When instructed to test fit parts, this means DON’T USE

GLUE until you are satisfied that everything fits properly –

THEN glue the parts together if instructed to do so.

• The easiest way of cutting balsa sticks is with a razor saw.

Position the stick over the plan, mark its size, then cut the

part on a piece of scrap lumber. A modeling miter box works

well for cutting square corners and 45 degree gussets.

• A single-edge razor blade also works well for cutting balsa

sticks. Because the blades are both sharp and thin, they

don’t crush balsa as easily as #11 hobby blades.

DIE-CUT PAGE

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

STAB AND ELEVATORS

(Refer to this photo for the following 3 steps.)

❍1. Pin the shaped 1/4" balsa stab center section over its

location on the plans. Use 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa to build the

outer framework of the stabilizer and both elevators, gluing

each piece in position as you proceed.

❍2. Cut and install four corner gussets and two elevator

joiner wire gussets from 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa.

❍3. Cut and install the 1/4" x 1/4" and 1/4" x 3/16" internal

bracing as shown on the plans.

❍4. Attach the elevators to the stabilizer with masking tape,

making sure the outer edges are flush. Position the 1/8"

elevator joiner wire over the elevators as shown on the plans.

Mark the location of the joiner wire torque rods.

❍5. While the parts are taped together, round off all outside

edges around the perimeter of the assembly

❍6. Remove the elevators. Drill a 5/32" hole (7/8" deep) through

the center of each elevator’s leading edge at the locations you

marked in step #4. Cut a groove from the hole you drilled to the

root end of each elevator. The groove will allow the joiner wire

to fit flush with the elevator’s leading edge.

V-SHAPE

SAND THE LE OF EACH CONTROL SURFACE

TO A V-SHAPE AS SHOWN

❍7. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of both elevators.

Refer to the cross section on the plan, then sand the elevator’s

leading edge to a “V” shape.

❍8. Test fit the joiner wire into both elevators. Make sure

that both elevators are flat on the work surface and that the

tips of the elevators align with the tips of the stab. If necessary,

remove the joiner wire, then make adjustments by bending

the torque arms.

❍9. Roughen the torque arms with coarse sandpaper. Pack

30-minute epoxy into the elevator’s holes with a toothpick,

then permanently install the joiner wire. Be sure the elevators

are flat on the work surface and that the leading edge is

perfectly straight.

FIN AND RUDDER

❍1. Working over the plans covered with waxed paper,

assemble the outside framework of the fin and rudder using

1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa.

❍2. Add the corner gussets cut from 1/4" x 1" balsa.

❍3. Add the 1/4" x 3/16" balsa internal bracing.

❍4. Using the plans for reference, mark and drill a 1/8" hole

(3/4" deep) into the lower leading edge of the rudder to

accept the tail gear torque arm. Cut a groove from the hole to

the bottom of the rudder to allow clearance for the tail gear

bearing.

❍5. Refer to the cross section on the plans, then round off

the leading and top edge of the fin and the trailing and top

edge of the rudder with sandpaper. Shape only the leading

edge of the rudder to a “V” along the hinge line.

BUILD THE WING

AILERONS

❍1. Working over the plans covered with waxed paper, build

the ailerons frames from 1/4" x 1/2" balsa.

❍2. Add the 1/4" x 1/2" internal bracing. Carefully cut and

install the aileron control horn brace using the 1/4" x 1" balsa.

❍3. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of both ailerons.

Sand the leading edge of the ailerons to a “V” shape as shown

on the plans.

❍4. Don’t round off the trailing edge of the ailerons. Just

knock off the corners.

WING PANELS

❍1. Trim the length of the four 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" basswood

wing spars to 24". Save the remaining 6" pieces for later use.

❍❍2. Cover the wing plans with waxed paper. Use cross-

pinning (see illustration) to hold a wing spar in position

where shown on plans. The spar should be even with the

wing’s centerline and tip.

❍❍3. Cut the four 1/16" x 1-1/8" x 30" balsa trailing edge

sheets down to 24". Pin one sheet over the plans flush with

the trailing edge of the wing. NOTE: These sheets extend past

the rear end of the ribs by 1/4".

❍❍4. Position the die-cut R1 (see note) through R3 wing ribs

on the spar at the locations shown. Be sure the flat portion of

the airfoil is toward the building board and the ribs are fully

seated on the spar. Use a small drafting triangle to hold each

rib vertical while you glue it in position. NOTE: The main spar

is centered in the spar notch in the R1 rib to allow room for

the spar joiners to fit on both sides of the spars.

❍❍5. Cut two 24" trailing edge sticks from 1/4" x 3/8" x 30"

balsa. Glue the trailing edge (3/8" dimension is vertical) to the

ribs and bottom trailing edge sheeting. Sand the top of the

trailing edge (with a long sanding block) flush with the top of

the ribs at an angle that matches the slope of the airfoil.

❍❍6. Cut two 24" sub leading edges from the 1/16" x 1" x

30" balsa sheets. Center the sub leading edge vertically on

the front of the ribs (and flush with the wing’s centerline),

then glue it in position. Sand the top edge flush with the top

of the airfoil.

❍❍7. Cut two 5/16" x 1-3/16" x 30" balsa leading edges to

24". Vertically center, then glue, a leading edge to the sub

leading edge of the wing panel.

❍❍8. Glue the 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" top basswood spar in

position. Use a drafting triangle to be sure the root end is

even with the bottom spar.

❍❍9. Use the leftover 1/4" basswood spar material to make

two aileron servo rails 1-5/8" long. Insert two of the rails into

the notches between the closely spaced R2 ribs. Use a servo

of your choice to set the correct spacing between the rails,

then glue the rails securely in position.

❍10. Follow steps 2 - 9 to build the second wing panel using

the extra pieces you cut previously. Be sure to build a left and

right wing panel.

JOIN THE WING PANELS

❍1. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply leading and trailing edge

joiners and the four 1/16" x 1/4" x 6-1/2" ply main spar joiners

in the wing. Test fit the die-cut plywood servo tray between

the R1 ribs. Use a metal straightedge to make sure the spars,

leading edge and trailing edge are aligned and straight. When

everything fits well, glue the servo tray to both R1 ribs, then

remove the joiner pieces in preparation for gluing.

❍2. Be sure the wing is right-side up and flat on the

workbench, then use 30-minute epoxy to glue the leading

and trailing edge joiners in position. Next, install the top and

bottom main spar joiners, also using 30-minute epoxy.

Double check that there is no twisting or bowing and that

everything is straight before the epoxy cures.

★★★★ Pro Tip: Clothespins or spring-clips can be used to

clamp the pieces together and phone books or magazines

can be used to hold the wing flat.

ADD WING SHEETING

Be sure the wing is pinned flat on your work surface from the

spar to the trailing edge before you begin sheeting.

❍1. Glue a 1/16" x 1-1/8" x 24" trailing edge sheet to the top

of both wing panels.

R-1 CAP STRIPS SHEAR WEBS

LE SHEET

2-3/8"

24" 6"

❍2. Trim the four 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa leading edge sheets

to 24". Save the leftover 6" pieces for use later during construction.

Cut the 3" x 24" pieces down to 2-1/2" x 24". Save the 1/2" x

24" sticks to make the R1 capstrips.

❍❍3. Align a leading edge sheet with a wing tip, then hold

it tightly against the leading edge while using thin CA to glue

it to the sub leading edge. (See photo at step 5.)

❍❍4. Carefully lift up the leading edge sheet, away from the

ribs. Working quickly, apply a bead of medium or thick CA to

each rib, then roll the sheet into contact. Hold the sheet until

the CA cures. Wick some thin CA between the sheet and the

spar to secure the aft edge of the sheet to the spar.

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