Stevens Aero Model Stik 2.0 Manual de usuario

stik 2.0

Simple Aileron Trainer

V2.01

Span 40 in. / Length 34 in. / AUW 14-16 oz. / Area 350 sq. in. / For GWS EPS-350C-CS

WARRANTY

Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship

at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or

modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty

without notice.

In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final

assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by

the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user–assembled product,

the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer

is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

REQUIRED TO COMPLETE KIT:

Kit Contents:

Illustrated Instruction Manual

Laser Cut Balsa and Hardwood Parts Sheets (See Cut Parts Inventory Sheet)

Raw Materials (Taped to brick of wood)

•1 - 0.045” x 12” Music Wire

•2 - 0.045” x 24” Music Wire

•2 - 1/8” x 24” hardwood dowel.

Hardware Bag

•1 - Bag #16 Rubber Bands.

•4 - #2x3/16” Self Tapping Screws.

•4 - Du-Bro Micro2 Control Horns.

•4 - Du-Bro Micro2 EZ Links.

•2 - Rubber Wheel retainers (for main wheels)

•1 - Tail Wheel retainer (thick black plastic washer).

Finishing Items:

If you are not upgrading your existing GWS Slow Stick you will require the following:

1. GWS Slow Stick Assembly AS1 Fuselage with Hardware (GW/SLOW-STICK-AS1)

2. GWS Slow Stick Assembly AS3 Plastic Parts Tree (GW/SLOW-STICK-AS3)

To cover the model we suggest a light weight easy to apply iron on film.

3. One roll of AeroLITE covering available from www.stevensaero.com

Suggested Electronics:

1. 4-6 Channel Transmitter.

2. 4 - Hitec HS-55 Servos (use of HS-55 servos will negate the need for a long Y harness or servo extensions)

3. 1 - 3” Servo “Y” Harness (only required with use of non-computerized 4ch radio)

Items You May Need:

1. Thin CA (super glue) or White Glue

2. Plan/Table Protector (use the bag that this kit came in to protect your work surface from CA glue spills)

3. Razor Blade(s)

4. Med-Fine Grit Sand Paper and sanding block

5. Clear Tape ¾” Wide

6. 1/32” Drill Bit

7. Balsa Wood Filler

INSTRUCTIONS:

The stik is an adaptation of Binkley’s ET (Electric Trainer) wing. Thomas Binkley devoted a

considerable amount of time to developing this wing and produced a set of hand drawn plans

from which a number of ET's were brought to life. At Tom’s request we jumped on the

opportunity to work the ET over into a great little laser cut balsa kit.

This product is targeted for a first time build and as such; features traditional Stevens AeroModel

laser engineered interlocking design techniques... the laser cut parts are keyed and labeled in

such a fashion as to reduce the possibility of building the wing incorrectly. The wing features

diagonal interlocking sub ribs to reduce the possibility of warping the assembly during the

covering process. Wood selection is top notch with appropriate grain, thickness, and density hand

selected to produce an efficient design that is minimizes weight while being exceptionally durable.

I sincerely hope you enjoy building and flying your stik electric aileron trainer.

Bill Stevens

[email protected]

Stevens AeroModel “Laser Engineered Kits™”

1528 S. Nevada Ave.

Colorado Springs, CO 80906

Before You Begin

Before you begin aimlessly shaking the balsa bits from their sheets suggest you perform the

following steps:

1. Read these instructions thoroughly and Take a complete inventory of your kit and

compare your cut balsa sheets to the reference at the beginning of this manual.

Immediately contact [email protected] to report any damaged or missing

components.

2. While the parts are still retained within the balsa sheet use a fine grit sand paper and

lightly sand both sides of the sheet wood, this will remove any residue and discoloration

from the cutting process and will knock the grain down on the wood for better results

when covering. Tip! Do not get carried away here or you could significantly impact the

parts fit. I suggest light sanding with 250-400 grit paper.

3. As much as I love building laser cut kits, I don’t like to see dark laser “burn” marks

showing through my covering. I find it useful to keep some 400 grit paper handy to

remove the oxidation from the laser cutting process by lightly sanding any surfaces that

will be exposed prior to gluing them into position. Keep in mind that you should NOT

sand any interlocking surfaces or this will impact the fit and keying of the kit.

4. Thin CA glue (about ½ oz.) is suggested for the bulk of the assembly. ALWAYS use a

super fine glue applicator tip when working with thin CA to meter the amount of glue

required for each joint. If you have a CA allergy you may substitute wood glue (thinned

with water). Using wood glue will necessitate pinning parts to the building board until the

glue has cured.

5. Use the poly tubing that this kit was packaged in to protect your building surface from

glue spills. Tip: Wrapping your finger tips with masking tape will prevent the unfortunate

situation whereby you glue your fingers to the model.

6. All parts are laser scribed with a part number, take a mental note of where these parts

are located and DO NOT remove parts from the balsa sheet until it is required in your

assembly step.

7. If you purchased the full stik kit you will have received two original GWS Slow Stick

assemblies marked AS1 and AS3. You will not utilize all provided parts from these

assemblies. Retain the parts pictured in the photos below:

Empennage Assembly

1. Begin assembly by locating the 3/32” balsa empennage parts. Assembly the horizontal

stabilizer from parts HS1 (main assembly) and HS2 (cross grain end pieces). Vertical

stab “V”, rudder “R”, and elevator “E” require no assembly. A photo of the complete

empennage assemblies is given below for reference.

2. Sand the leading edge of the vertical and horizontal stabilizer round while leaving the

training edge square. The flying surfaces of the stik are simply tape hinged; this requires

that you sand a 45 degree bevel along the leading edge of both the elevator and rudder

while leaving the trailing edge square (see illustration below).

3. Final sand the empennage assembly in preparation for covering with AeroLITE.

Wing Assembly

Assembly method: Refer to plan sheet for the wing assembly parts location diagram. Full Size

plan sheets are not required and have not been included with this kit. The wing is of “I-Beam”

type construction which consists of a 1/16” balsa web which is slotted to accept the wing ribs.

This web is caped by balsa strips that interlock with the ribs to form the “I-Beam”. The wing is

assembled in one complete panel with center section plywood reinforcement.

When assembling the wing pay careful attention to the orientation of the spar, trailing edge, cap

strips, and turbulator as these parts have a directional component. I have keyed the wood to only

fit in one direction. In addition, many components are marked with arrows “->” which should

always point towards the wing center section (i.e. turbulators, spar web, spar cap strips, and

trailing edge).

The photos illustrate building out the right wing panel half; for each step complete both the right

and left sides of the wing.

As new components are called out we will note them in the instructions by placing “()” around the

part number.

Things to remember: As you assemble the wing panel apply only enough glue to tack the

assembly together. Each part that you add to the assembly will add to the rigidity and square of

the assembly. Once the bulk of the wing panel has been completed you can re-visit each joint

and wick a more liberal amount of glue along the bonding surface.

1. Begin wing assembly by locating the 1/16” spar webs (S1) and (S2), key together as

illustrated in the first photo below, and glue. Next, locate the 1/32” plywood spar doubler

(S5), align to center of spar web matching notches and edges. Glue as illustrated in the

final photo of this step.

2. The plywood spar doubler installed in step 1 must face towards the wing trailing edge.

Locate the 3/32” ribs (R2) and key to spar web assembly. Note: be certain to fully seat

R2 within assembly. Locate the 1/32” plywood servo pocket (SR1) and key to the spar

web assembly. Note that SR1 tabs into the notched portion of the S5 plywood doubler

and keys to the hole in rib R2. Once these components have been properly seated and

aligned retain them with a small drop of CA glue.

3. Locate the 3/32” balsa ribs (R1), glue together on top of one another matching slots and

edges perfectly to create one double thickness R1 center rib. Key the double thick R1 to

spar web center notch as illustrated in the second photo below. Do not glue.

4. Now locate the remaining ribs (R3), (R4), (R5), and (R6). Refer to the reduced size plan

set for proper location and key to the spar web. Pay attention to carefully and completely

seat each rib within the notches of the spar web. Do not glue.

5. Locate the top spar web cap (S4) and bottom spar web cap (S3) key these in their

respective positions starting with the locating tabs in the spar web between ribs R5 and

R6. Seat the S3 and S4 caps so that they interlock with ribs R1 through R6 and seat

flush against the top and bottom edges of the spar web. While holding the spar flat

against your building board tack glue the spar webbing to retain to assembly (complete ½

of the wing panel at a time).

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