Sparkfun Electronics RB-Spa-508 Manual de usuario
''Internet of Things'' Printer Assembly Instructions
In the future, everything will be connected to the internet. And all restaurants will be Taco Bell!
The "Internet of Things" refers to the idea of pervasive, ambient connections between physical objects
and the virtual world. If every modest sensor or output device could share information via the internet,
what new paradigms will arise? Our little printer is one such experiment. What value can be culled from
the internet without a browser interface, or even a computer screen for that matter?
Parts List
The Internet of Things Printer Project Pack includes the following items:
Mini Thermal Receipt Printer.
50' roll of thermal paper.
Metal on/off toggle button with green LED.
Panel-mount DC barrel jack.
5V 2A DC switching power supply.
Break-away strip male header (single piece similar to product ID #400).
A short length of ribbon cable.
Seven (7) laser-cut acrylic pieces.
Eleven (11) 1/2" #4-40 machine screws.
Twelve (12) #4-40 steel nuts.
Not shown: a short length of heat-shrink tube.
Because many users already have Arduino hardware, the kit does not include microcontroller and/or
network boards. You will need to additionally purchase or bring:
an Arduino Ethernet board and a USB-to-serial programming adapter such as the FTDI Friend or
TTL-232 Cable.
-or-
an Arduino Uno board and Ethernet Shield.
Directions are provided for both. In either case, you will also need:
Cables for USB programming and Ethernet.
Not included with the kit, the following tools are needed:
Soldering iron and solder.
Small Phillips screwdriver.
Optional: tape, pliers.
Not shown: wire cutters and strippers, lighter or heat gun for heat-shrink.
Preparation
If using the Arduino Ethernet (board, not shield), gently remove the 6-pin 90-degree male
programming header from its socket.
If using the Arduino Uno + Ethernet Shield, remove the Ethernet Shield if it's currently installed.
Peel the backing paper off the acrylic parts. This may create a static charge, so building the kit
with a grounding mat or wrist strap is recommended.
If using Ethernet Shield, there's an extra cutout on the back piece of the acrylic case that can be
snapped off using finger pressure or pliers. If sharp points remain, trim with wire cutters or a
file. If using the Arduino Ethernet, leave this cutout in place.
Note the unique Ethernet MAC address on the board —usually a white sticker on the bottom.
You will need this later, so write it down or snap a photo.
Assembly
1: Prepare pin headers
Using pliers or wire cutters, snap off three sections of pin header: two, three and five pins.
If using an Arduino Uno with Ethernet Shield, the three- and five-pin headers should be bent at
90 degrees to allow clearance inside the case. This can be done with a firm grip and pliers, or
you may want to use a bench vise. The 2-pin header can be left straight. You do not need to
bend headers if using an Arduino Ethernet board.
2: Prepare ribbon cable, power button
Peel away five strands from the ribbon cable. Here we'll be using the brown, red, orange, yellow
and green conductors. Save the other wires, they'll be used in a later step.
Strip about 1/4" (6mm) of insulation from these five wires.
Twist the ends of the orange and red wires together.
The power button has five solder legs. Looking at the back of the button, turn it so that the legs
are toward the bottom, forming a "smile" arrangement. Then use the following guide to solder
the wires to the legs shown. Note that the second leg is not connected, and the fourth leg is
joined to both the orange and red wires.
Locate the top piece to the acrylic case (it has a large rectangular cutout for the thermal printer,
and a smaller circular cutout for the power button). Feed the ribbon cable through the round
hole, then secure the power button with the included nut. (This acrylic piece is symmetrical —
there is no "top" or "bottom," so you can insert the button through either side.)
The wires of the ribbon cable can now be separated —but leave about 2 inches (toward the
power button) intact for sturdiness. Peel apart the remaining length of the green, yellow and
orange wires. The red and brown wires can be left mostly together —peel apart about 2 inches
near the end.
3: Install DC power jack
Locate the back piece of the acrylic case (with the Adafruit logo) and insert the DC power jack
from the outside, then secure it from the inside with the included nylon nut.
Peel away two more strands from the unused section of ribbon cable. Here we'll use black and
white. Strip about 1/4" of insulation and twist these together.
Solder the black and white wires to the outer of the two smaller legs on the DC jack. The inner of
these two legs is not connected.
Solder the yellow wire (from the power switch) to the large center leg on the DC jack. The top
and back case pieces are now conjoined by this wire and cannot be separated —be careful to
always move these two parts together.
4: Solder row headers
Strip about 1/2" (13mm) of insulation from all of the unconnected wire ends, and twist each to
prevent fraying.
The wires are then soldered to the row headers. Pinch the tip of a wire against the header's
plastic support and wrap the wire around the pin. Solder in place, then use wire cutters to snip
off the starting bit of wire.
The 5-pin header has only a single green wire connected. This is normal. Use the following photo
and wiring diagram for reference:
5: Install printer in top plate
Slide the thermal printer through the large cutout in the top piece of the case:
Secure the printer using the two plastic wedges. Screw down gently so as not to crack the
acrylic.
Connect the power and serial cables into the back of the printer. Note the functions of each wire as
labeled on the printer —we'll refer back to these later.
6: Attach board to bottom plate
This varies slightly between the Arduino Ethernet and the Uno + Ethernet Shield. In either case, only
three of the four mounting holes are used, but it's different for each board type.
For Arduino Ethernet Board:
The mounting hole near the DC power jack is NOT used!
Insert a screw in the mounting hole near the Ethernet jack and secure it in place with a nut.
Insert screws in the remaining two holes near the microSD card slot. Do NOT secure these with
nuts yet.
Place board on bottom plate by feeding the three screws through the corresponding holes.
Secure the three screws with nuts.
The 6-pin programming header can now be reinstalled.
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