SIG Four-Star 120 Manual de usuario

Specifications:(cont.) Imperial Metric

Wing Loading: 22 oz./sq. ft. 67 g/sq. dm

Radio Required: 4 Channels with 5 servos

Engine Required: .90 - 1.20 2-Stroke 15 - 20 cu. cm

1.20 - 1.50 4-Stroke 20 - 26 cu. cm

Kit Number: SIGRC65ARFR (Red) or

SIGRC65ARFY (Yellow)

* Calculated at full span, including fuselage

** Flying weight can vary with use of different engines, battery packs, & equipment

RADIO EQUIPMENT:

The FOUR-STAR 120 ARF requires a typical four-channel radio

system and five servos. We recommend you use ball bearing type

servos of at least 60 oz./in. of torque for the two ailerons and for

the elevators. We suggest using a metal gear servo of at least 100

oz./in. of torque for the rudder. The throttle can be driven by a

typical standard servo.

We have used and can highly recommend the Hitec radio

systems. These are affordable and reliable radio systems that offer

all the features for this and the many other R/C aircraft in your

future. For reference, this assembly manual will show the

installation of a Hitec radio system, using the upgraded servos

mentioned earlier. In addition, you will need two 12" servo lead

extensions, one 6" standard aileron servo Y-harness and one 36"

heavy-duty servo extension for the elevator servo. Due to the size

of the model itself and the fact that it uses five servos, we suggest

using an aftermarket airborne battery pack of at least 1000 mAh

capacity.

Last, many of the following assembly steps will require the use of

the radio system for the purpose of testing movements, etc. Before

you begin assembly, place your radio system on charge to be sure

it is ready to use during assembly.

ENGINE SELECTION:

The FOUR-STAR 120 ARF offers you the ability to use a wide

range of engine types and sizes. The airplane has been designed

to produce excellent performance when using the recommended

engine sizes. Do not use engines larger than those

recommended.

The FOUR-STAR 120 ARF flies very nicely using 4-stroke engines

in the 1.20 to 1.80 cubic inch displacement range. 2-stroke

engines in the .91 to 1.20 cubic inch displacement range will also

provide plenty of power and performance. For example, either the

AVIASTAR®1.20 or 1.50 glow engines would be fine choices for

this model. Aviastar®engines are powerful, ringed engines with

oversize ball bearings. These high quality engines are both

affordable and very reliable. Whatever engine you choose, take the

time to carefully break it in according to the manufacturer’s

instructions. A good running, reliable engine is a minimum

requirement for the enjoyment of this or any other R/C model

aircraft.

Use only the propellers suggested for your particular engine. We

also suggest using the larger diameter, lower pitch propellers

listed for your engine by the manufacturer. Such props tend to

provide very good pulling power during maneuvers, without a lot of

excess speed. An 18" diameter propeller is about as big as you

can use and still have adequate ground clearance. Lower pitch

props are also of help in controlling your landings. The FOUR

FOUR-STAR 120 ARF ASSEMBLY MANUAL

INTRODUCTION:

The SIG FOUR-STAR 120 ARF combines the great classic looks

and performance of the original Four-Star kit series, in an almost

ready to fly package. The FOUR-STAR 120 ARF is easy to fly

and makes an ideal choice for your first large low wing airplane.

Intermediate and advanced flyers will also appreciate the

maneuverability and smooth handling characteristics of this very

honest flying design. All of this makes the FOUR-STAR 120 ARF

the sport model that you will want to take to the flying field every

time!

With the control throws set at the suggested low rates for the first

flights, you will be able to easily get airborne, throttle back, and

enjoy a truly nice flying, gentle R/C model. As your skills and

confidence build, the control movements can be dialed up to match

your abilities for more advanced aerobatics. The FOUR-STAR 120

ARF is a capable aerobatic model. Inside and outside loops, rolls,

inverted flight, snap maneuvers, and great spins are all well within

the Four-Star 120's flight envelope.

The FOUR-STAR 120 ARF kit has been engineered to get you into

the air as quickly as possible with a R/C model that will truly last.

The airframe has been expertly built and covered with SIG

AeroKote®. This premium covering material is both rugged and

easy to repair. The provided self-adhesive decals are high quality

Mylar®and really serve to compliment the already striking color

scheme.

This assembly manual has been specifically sequenced to get your

FOUR-STAR 120 ARF assembled and into the air quickly. We

strongly suggest that you read through this manual first, to become

familiar with the various parts and their assembly sequences. The

proper assembly and flying of this R/C model aircraft is your

responsibility. If you are new to the sport/hobby of radio control, we

urge you to seek the assistance of a qualified person to help

you assemble this model airplane. If you do not understand

a particular assembly step or sequence, do not guess - find

qualified help and use it.

Specifications: Imperial Metric

Wing Span: 81 in. 2057 mm

Wing Area*: 1205 sq. in. 77.7 dm2

Length: 65 in. 1651 mm

Flying Weight**: 11.5 - 12 lbs. 12.5 kg

STAR 120 ARF has a fairly low wing loading and may tend to float

in ground effect during landings.

A lower pitch prop has a "braking"

effect in such circumstances and will get the airplane down to the

ground nicely.

We have made it a point to paint the tips of our

props with a brightly colored paint to make the prop arc visible.

Finally, always be sure to balance your flying props carefully to

minimize vibration and possible engine bearing problems.

COVERING MATERIAL:

Your FOUR-STAR 120 ARF has been professionally covered using

SIG AeroKote®. This high quality covering material is well known

for its ease of application, light weight, and consistency of color. If

you live in a dry climate, you may notice that some wrinkles might

develop after removing the various covered parts from their plastic

bags. This is perfectly normal in low humidity climates. Your model

was built and covered in a part of the world with fairly high

humidity and therefore, the wood was carrying a fair amount of

moisture. When exposed to drier air, the wood typically loses this

moisture, dimensionally shrinking in the process. In turn, this may

cause some wrinkles. However, wrinkles are easy to remove by

simply using a hobby type heat iron.

We suggest covering the iron shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as

an old T-shirt. This prevents scratching the film. The iron should

be set to about 280Oto 300OF. To avoid the seams from creeping

during the shrinking process, first go over all the seams, heating

them well and pressing them down with a cloth until cool. Use the

heated iron to lightly shrink the material in the open span areas -

do not press on it. Then lightly iron the material back down to the

wood. You can also use a hobby type heat gun to re-shrink the

covering but you must protect all seams and color joints to prevent

unsightly creeping. A good way to do this is to roll up a damp

paper towel and cover the seam with this while you apply the heat

gun on the adjacent areas. For reference, your FOUR STAR 120

ARF was covered with SIG AeroKote®in one of the following color

schemes.

AeroKote®#SIGSTL330 BrightYellow with AeroKote®#SIGSTL433

Yellow & Black Checks

AeroKote®#SIGSTL311 Bright Red with AeroKote®#SIGSTL413

Red & White Checks

REQUIRED TOOLS:

For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and

materials available:

•A Selection of Glues - SIG Thin and Medium CA Glue

SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute and

30-Minute Epoxy

•Thread Locking Compound, Such As Loctite®Non-Permanent Blue

•A Selection of Screwdrivers, Both Blade and Phillips Types

•Pliers - Needle Nose and Flat Nose

•Diagonal Wire Cutters

•Small Allen Wrench Assortment

•Hobby Knife With Sharp #11 Blades

•Scissors

•Heat Gun, Heat Iron & Trim Seal Tool for Model Coverings

•Soldering Iron, Solder & Flux -

StaBrite®Silver Solder & Flux Recommended

•Power Drill With An Assortment of Drill Bits

•A 90

Triangle or Square

•Masking Tape

•Paper Towels

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST:

The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.

Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to

inventory the parts in your kit.

❑BAG #1 Horizontal stabilizer and elevator - hinged but not

glued - 4 hinges per side - 3/8" (9.5 mm) gap in

covering in center of stab. top and bottom - wire

joiner installed and glued - hard points for braces

installed but not opened - all parts built up and

sheeted over then covered

❑BAG #2 Vertical fin and rudder - built-up, sheeted structure -

4 rudder hinges in place, not glued - hard points

installed for bracing but not opened - factory covered

❑BAG #3 Left wing panel - ailerons installed with 6 hinges but

not glued, held in place with tape - aileron servo

hatch/mount taped on bottom - tube for servo lead

installed - receptacle built into main spars to receive

aluminum joiner blade - locator dowel installed

towards trailing edge - hold down tab at l.e. of root rib

- servo lead hole in top sheeting but not opened

❑BAG #4 Right wing panel - same as bag #3 except for locator

dowel socket towards trailing edge

❑BAG #5 Fiberglass wheel pants - 1 left, 1 right - painted to

match covering w/ 2 each M3 blind mounting nuts

installed in each pant

❑BAG #6 Fuselage with canopy installed with six screws - black

frame painted on canopy - cockpit floor covered in

gray - spacer block installed in tail to protect stab.

openings - servo tray installed inside - servo mounts

provided under horizontal stab. but not opened -

fiberglass tube for servo lead installed - antenna tube

installed - pull-pull cable exit guide tubes installed -

4 blind nuts for landing gear installed - two 1/4-20

blind nuts for wing hold down installed - hole for neck

of fuel tank in firewall - thrust lines marked on firewall

- firewall and cowl cheeks fuel proofed - cowl drain in

bottom of cowl not opened.

4 each M4 Blind Mounting Nuts installed in firewall

❑BAG #7 Aluminum landing gear wrapped in foam padding -

painted yellow or red drilled for axles and wheel pant

bolts - drilled for fuselage mounting bolts.

❑BAG #8 Misc. parts bags.

❑Sub bag A 2 each 4" dia. (102 mm) foam wheels

❑Sub bag B 2 each Blue foam - 3/8" x 3" x 7-3/4"

(9.5 x 76 x 196 mm)

❑Sub bag C

Sub bag 1C 1 each 3" (76 mm) dia. spinner

assembly - white cone with

black plastic back plate

Sub bag 2C 2 each PA3 x 12 mm Phillips head

sheet metal screws

❑Sub bag D 1 each Plywood bolt plate for wing

center section, 2 bolt hole

drilled but not open

2 each 1/4-20 x 2" Nylon Wing

Mounting Bolts

❑Sub bag E 1 each Fuel tank - 16.9 oz. (500 cc)

square with offset neck - fuel

line and clunk weight inside -

10 mm square x 105 mm balsa

tank retainer

(25/64" sq. x 4-1/8")

Sub bag 1E 2 each 3 mm aluminum tubes -

40 mm (1-9/16") and

60 mm (2-3/8")

1 each Rubber stopper

2 each Zip Ties

1 each 3 mm I.D. x 20 mm silicone

tube

❑Sub bag F 1 each Wing Joiner Blade -

4.7 mm x 29.72 mm x 391mm,

Hardened Aluminum

(.185" x 1-11/64" x 15-25/64")

❑Sub bag G 2 each Plastic coated pull-pull cable -

1 mm dia. x 1 m long (.039 x 39")

2 each Z-bend pull-pull cable fittings

2 each

Threaded pull-pull cable fittings

2 each

Nylon RC Links with metal pins

2 each

D6 x 5 mm Blue Fuel Tube

4 each Copper swage tubes

❑Sub bag H 2 each Axles - 5 mm dia.x 47 mm with

M8 lock nuts (.197 X 27/32")

4 each Wheel Collars - 5.1 mm ID

w/ setscrews

4 each

M3 x 12 mm Phillips Head Bolts

4 each

M4 x 16 mm Phillips Head Bolts

❑Sub bag I 8 each T2 x 12 mm PWA Screws

❑Sub bag J 2 each 1/4" ID Wing Bolt Washers

❑Sub bag K 3 each

M2 x 18 mm Phillips Head Bolts

3 each M2 nuts

6 each M2 washers

2 each T2 x 8 mm PWA Screws

❑Sub bag L 8 each

M2 x 18 mm Philips Head Bolts

2 each M2 nuts

❑Sub bag M 1 each

Aileron Gage - laser cut plywood

1 each Laser-cut Pushrod Guide

❑Bag #9 Wire Parts: 1 each 2.5 mm x 152 mm (.098 X 6")

rod threaded 4-40 on one

end-Elevator pushrod

2 each 2.5 mm x 128 mm (.098 X 5")

rods threaded 4-40 on one

end-Aileron pushrods

2 each D2 x 202 mm

(.071 X 7-15/16")

rods with

plastic fittings at each end

2 each D2 x 254 mm

(.071 x 10") rods with plastic

fittings at each end-Stabilizer

braces

❑Bag #10 Tail Wheel Assembly, including:

3 each T3 x 12 mm PWA screws

2 each T2 x 10 mm PWA screws

2 each Tail Wheel Centering Springs

1 each “T”Bar

❑Bag #11 Motor Mount Assembly, including:

4 each

M4 x 12 mm Phillips Head Bolts

4 each M4 Flat Washers

4 each M4 Split Ring Washers

❑Bag #12 Control Horns, including:

3 each Left Control Horns

2 each Right Control Horns

3 each

#4-40 R/C Links (ailerons [2], elevators [1[)

3 each

#4-40 Solder Links (ailerons [2], elevators [1])

3 each

#4-40 Nuts (ailerons [2], elevators [1])

2 each

1/4 - 20 x 2”Nylon Bolts

❑Bag #13 Throttle Linkage Bag, including:

1 each .130 x 15" (3.3 x 380 mm) Inner Nyrod

1 each .060 x 18" (1.5 x 457 mm) Flex Cable

1 each 2-56 Nylon R/C Link

1 each Pushrod Connector

1 each Pushrod Connector Connector Keeper

1 each 4-40 x 1/8, Socket Head Cap Screw

❑4 each Decal Sheets

❑1 each Assembly Manual

Hardware 101:

Every modeler has heard stories about "inferior" foreign

hardware - we certainly have. While some of this might be

deserved, the fact of the matter is that much of this comes from

people who failed to use the right tools for the job. A case in

point is the common Phillips screwdriver. These things come

with bits in all shapes, sizes, and angles. If you use a Phillips

screwdriver that has too small of a bit for the screw or bolt, it will

almost always "roach" out the head of the screw or bolt under

the pressure of installing it. The same is true if the screwdriver

bit is too large. One size does not fit all! Slotted screws,

installed with under or oversize screwdrivers, can also suffer

from this same kind of abuse. From experience, we can also

tell you that magnetized screwdrivers are great for this

project. Having the right tools available for the job can make

a big difference in making the job all that much easier and

enjoyable.making the job all that much easier and enjoyable.

WING ASSEMBLY:

The FOUR-STAR 120 ARF wing has been designed to be a strong,

easy to assemble, two-piece unit to ease transport in today's

smaller vehicles. For more precise control authority, each wing

panel has its own aileron servo. While working on the wing panels

during the upcoming steps, we suggest that cover your workbench

with a protective blanket or foam rubber sheet. This precaution will

minimize unnecessary dings, dents, or scuffing of the covered

parts.

Aileron Servo Installation & Aileron Hinging:

For the following steps you will need:

•The left & right wing panels with their ailerons, hinges,

and servo hatch mounts

•The main aluminum wing joiner blade

•The aileron servos (at least 60 oz./in. of torque)

•Two 12" aileron servo lead extensions

•One 6" standard "Y" harness with connectors to fit your

radio system

•After-market extra strength servo output arms - this manual

shows our use of the DuBro #672 servo output arms for

Hitec servos

❑1) Start by first checking the fit of the two wing panels. Slide

the joiner blade into the receptacle in one of the panels and then

fit the opposite panel in place, sliding the two panels together at the

center section. The rear locator dowel should fit into the hole in the

opposite panel. Once satisfied, separate the two panels for now.

❑2) As received, the aileron servo hatch/mounts are taped onto

the bottom surfaces of each wing panel - remove these hatches

from the wing panels. Fit one of your aileron servos onto the hatch

mounting beams. Check to be sure that the servo arm will fit into

the provided slots. Open up the slot as required for a good

clearance fit. Repeat this process with the opposite servo and

hatch/mount. Place a 1/16" (1.5 mm) spacer shim between the

servo and the hatch and mark the beams for the four servo

mounting screw holes. Remove the servos and shims and drill

pilot holes for your servo mounting screws, using a #50 (1.8 mm)

bit.

The servo hatch/mounts

each have four mounting

holes - one in each corner.

Use a sharpened dowel

to open up these holes,

through the covering. Place

the hatch/mounts back

into their appropriate wing

panels and use a power drill with a 1/16" bit to drill pilot holes into

the wing panels for the retaining screws.

❑3) On the top center of both wing panels, just inboard of the

center wing rib, you will now need to remove the covering over the

servo lead exit holes, using a sharp #11 blade.

❑4) Install a 12" servo lead extension to both of the aileron

servos. We suggest securing these connections with a piece of

heat shrink tubing. Next, install the rubber grommets and brass

eyelets, that came with your radio system, into the servo mounting

lugs.

❑5) Using the mounting screws that came with your radio

system, mount the servo onto the hatch/mount. Using your radio

system, center the aileron servos, making sure the trims are at

neutral. Install an extra long servo arm onto each servo, making

sure it is centered in the slot and is at 90Oto the servo case. Once

satisfied, install the servo arm retaining screws into each servo.

Unplug the servos from the receiver and turn off your radio system.

Feed the servo extension leads through the tube inside the wing

and pull the connector out of the hole at the top center of the wing

panel. Use the eight T2 x 12 mm Phillips Head screws (Bag 8, Sub

Bag I) to install and secure the two aileron hatch/mounts into each

wing panel.

❑6) The ailerons are now hinged to the wing panels. Note that

the installation method for these hinges will be the same for all of

the control surfaces on this model. Press the six CA hinges into

the slots in each aileron leaving 1/2" exposed. Use two pins in the

center of each hinge to keep them centered when inserting them

into the corresponding slots in the trailing edge of the wing panel.

❑7) Carefully insert the hinges into the trailing edge of the wing

until the pins are tight against the trailing edge, setting the proper

gap between the aileron and the wing. Adjust the ailerons as

needed to align the tip with the wing tip, in top view. The aileron

should now be in the proper position for permanently hinging it in

place.

❑8) Flex the aileron down slightly and hold it in this position with

a piece of masking tape. Remove the pins from one hinge and

apply 4 drops of thin CA directly onto the hinge. We suggest using

a fine tipped applicator on the glue bottle to better control the flow

of glue - excessive glue can run through the gap and mar the

backside of the wing. Repeat this process on the remaining five

hinges. Remove the masking tape holding the aileron and turn the

wing panel over on your bench. Again flex the aileron and hold it

in position with a piece of tape. Apply four drops of thin CA glue to

each exposed hinge. Remove the tape, allowing the aileron to

return to the neutral position. Because it takes a little time for

the glue to fully wick its way through the hinge surface and

surrounding wood, allow 10 minutes or so before flexing the

aileron. Hinge the remaining aileron to the remaining wing panel

using the same procedures just described.

❑9) After sufficient time has passed, firmly flex the now-hinged

ailerons to free their movement. Also, pull on the aileron, at each

hinge location, to make sure that each hinge is firmly adhered in

place. Any clean-up required for CA glue drops, can be done with

SIG Debonder and a soft cloth.

Installing the Aileron Control Horns and Pushrods:

For the following steps you will need:

•1 each Left Hand Nylon Control Horn, Long with Back Plate

•1 each Right Hand Nylon Control Horn, Long with Back Plate

•2 each 4-40 x 128 mm Threaded Rod

•2 each 4-40 Threaded R/C Links

•2 each 4-40 Metal Solder links

•2 each 4-40 Hex Nuts

•4 each M2 x 18 mm Phillips head bolts

•Soldering Iron, Flux & Solder

•Laser-Cut Aileron Gage

❑1) As shown, use a square to locate the mounting position of

the control horn on the aileron. A perpendicular line from the

aileron hinge line intersects with the servo arm. Mark the leading

edge of the aileron at this point and then draw a line from this point

1" (25.4 mm) back, toward the trailing edge of the aileron

❑2) From Bag 12, locate one left and one right control horn. The

base of the control horn should be positioned toward the inboard

(fuselage) end of the wing. Place the control horn on the bottom

of the aileron with the upright arm of the horn next to the line, with

the linkage holes in the upright arm directly over the hinge line.

Mark the position of the horn mounting holes in the base plate onto

the aileron.

❑3) Use a power drill and a 5/64" drill bit to drill holes through

the aileron at the control horn mounting locations just made. Use

two of the M2 x 18 mm sheet metal screws to attach the control

horns to each aileron. The screws seat into the nylon retaining

plate, included with each control horn. After the screws are

securely in place, the excess screw tips can be trimmed using a

pair of side cutters. The remaining stubs can be filed or ground

flush to the retaining plate.

adjust the aileron pushrod R/C links as required to achieve uniform

contact with the bottom surface of the aileron gage.

Now, test the movement of the ailerons with the transmitter to

make sure the are moving in the correct directions - right stick

movement should cause the right aileron to move up. Once

satisfied, unplug the servos, turn off the radio system and set the

wing panels aside for final assembly later.

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY:

Fuselage Preparation:

To avoid damage, we suggest that you remove the canopy from the

fuselage and set it and its mounting screws aside for now. Next,

the fuselage has several openings that have been covered over

and now need to be opened up. These are;

a) The oil drain hole in the bottom front of the engine

compartment

b) The two pull-pull rudder cable exit holes on each side of the

fuselage beneath the horizontal stabilizer at the tail

c) The antenna tube exit hole on the bottom rear of the

fuselage, located about 6-1/2" forward of the tailpost.

Using a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade works well in making

these openings. In the case of the oil drain opening, we suggest

sealing the exposed wood with a few drops of thin CA glue to

prevent oil from penetrating the wood.

ENGINE INSTALLATION:

For the following steps you will need these parts:

•Your Engine

•Engine Mounting Hardware (not included)

•2 each Glass-Filled Engine Mounts

•Fuel Tank Assembly

•Fuel Tubing (not included)

•3" Dia. Spinner Assembly

•Your Propeller

•4 each M4 x 25 mm Phillips Head Bolts

•4 each M4 Flat Metal Washers

•4 each M4 Split Ring Washers

•1 each 1/8" dia. x 15" Inner Nyrod Tubing

•1 each 1/16" dia. x 18" Flex Cable

•1 each 2-56 Nylon R/C link

•1 each 2-56 Threaded Coupler

•1 each Pushrod Connector w/Setscrew

•1 each Pushrod Connector Keeper

•1 each Plywood Pushrod Guide

❑4) Thread one of the 4-40 hex nuts all the way onto one of the

4-40 x 128 mm threaded aileron pushrods. Thread a 4-40 R/C link

onto the pushrod, centering its threaded barrel, leaving an equal

amount of threads on each side. Clean the opposite end of the

pushrod with fine sandpaper and then slip a 4-40 solder link in

place.

❑5) Plug the aileron servo connector into the receiver and turn

the radio system on. Tape the aileron in the approximate neutral

position. Install the solder link into the outermost hole in the servo

output arm and install the threaded R/C link into the outermost

hole in the aileron control horn.

The solder link is now soldered to the aileron pushrod. We like and

recommend the use of Stay-Brite®silver solder and flux for such

connections. Apply a drop of flux to the solder link/pushrod and

apply just enough solder to allow it to "flow". When the joint has

cooled, remove the pushrod and thoroughly clean the solder joint

and lightly oil to prevent rust. Remove the tape holding the aileron

in position. Repeat this process on the opposite wing panel and

aileron pushrod.

❑6) The ailerons are now set to their neutral positions using

the provided laser-cut plywood Aileron Gage, found in Bag 8, Sub

Bag M. As shown, this gage is held against the bottom surface of

each wing panel, centered on the hinge line. Temporarily join the

wing panels and plug the aileron servo leads into the receiver

with the transmitter aileron trim at neutral. Using the aileron gage,

3/8”

IMPORTANT NOTE: The motor mounts provided with the Four

Star 120 ARF kit are of excellent quality and designed to work

well with both 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines up to 1.50

displacement. DO NOT use any engine larger than these with

the supplied motor mounts. DO NOT mount your engine on

these motor mounts by drilling and tapping them for bolts or

screws! These mounts should be drilled for clearance of the

engine mounting bolts and the engine itself should be secured

to the mount arms with bolts, washers, and lock nuts. Tapping

threads into these motor mount arms may weaken them,

potentially causing them to fail.

mount arms and mark the firewall with the appropriate position for

the throttle pushrod.

❑8) Remove the engine from the mounts and use a #29

(3.4 mm) bit, drill a hole through the firewall at the marked location.

You will also need to drill a new hole through the fuselage former

at the leading edge of the wing and the former in the approximate

center of the fuel tank compartment, on the opposite side of the

factory drilled hole. The throttle cable housing tube is now glued

into position in the holes in the firewall and two fuselage formers.

Position the engine compartment end of this tube flush with the

forward face of the firewall.

❑9) In the case of a 2-stroke engine installation, the hole for the

throttle cable tube needs to be drilled through the firewall. This

hole is located between the motor mount and the fuselage side, on

the throttle arm side of the engine. Use a #29 (3.4 mm) bit to drill

this hole. Now feed the throttle housing tube through the firewall

and through the holes in the two fuselage formers - leave about 1"

of tubing in front of the firewall. With the tubing now positioned, use

thick or medium CA glue to secure it permanently in place to the

firewall and fuselage formers.

Fuel Tank Assembly & Installation:

❑1) The 500 cc (16.9 oz.) fuel thank supplied provided with this

kit is now assembled. We suggest using a simple two-line fuel

❑1) Note that four M4 blind mounting nuts have been factory

installed behind the firewall. The spacing of these nuts, in

conjunction with oblong motor mount holes provides crankcase

mounting widths from 1-11/16" to 2-1/4" (42.8 to 57 mm). Such

spacing adjustment covers most recommended engine sizes for

this model. If the crankcase width of your engine is outside of

these dimensions, or you are using an alternate engine mounting

system, you will have to modify this bolt pattern accordingly.

NOTE: The engine and tank compartment were fuel-proofed

during the production of this model. However, if desired, these

areas can be additionally fuel-proofed. To do this, use a brush to

apply a coat of surfacing resin or clear polyurethane varnish to

these areas, as well as, the inside of the wing saddle in the radio

compartment. Be sure to brush the resin up to the covering edges.

❑2) Bolt the engine mounts in place on the front of the firewall

using the M4 x 25 mm Phillips Head Bolts. Put a M4 flat washer

and a M4 split ring washer on each of four M4 x 25 mm bolts, apply

a little thread locking compound to the threads and install the two

motor mount arms to the firewall - do not tighten in place yet.

❑3) As previously mentioned, the motor mount arms can be

positioned to adjust to the width of the engine's crankcase. Place

your engine on the motor mounts, moving the arms as needed to

accept the engine. Also, center the spinner backplate to the

fuselage in the top view. When everything appears correct, tighten

the motor mount bolts to the firewall.

❑4) Use a punch or a pencil to mark the engine's mounting

screw locations directly onto the motor mount arms. To make

these hole position marks easier to see, a neat trick is to use white

or silver plastic model paint or paint marker to paint the tops of the

motor mount arms.

❑5) Remove the engine and drill four clearance holes for the

bolts that will hold the engine to the mounts. Do not tap these

holes as doing so may weaken the mounts.

4-STROKE INSTALLATION DETAILS:

NOTE: If you are installing a 2-stroke engine, move ahead to

Step 9 in this section.

❑6) When installing a 4-stroke engine, note that the throttle

cable housing tube must be relocated. Start by pulling the throttle

housing tube out of the firewall and fuselage.

❑7) Install a pushrod connector into the outermost hole of the

throttle arm on the carburetor. Place the engine on the motor

❑5) To ease the

removal of the tank at a

later time, make a pull

tab at the rear of the

tank by wrapping a

loop of reinforced

strapping tape around

the front of the tank

allowing a 1" (25.4 mm)

tab to extend at the

rear.

❑6) To install the tank in the fuselage, first apply a generous

bead of silicone sealer around the neck of the tank. Install the tank

into the fuselage tank compartment. Make sure the offset neck of

the tank lines up properly with the round hole in the firewall. Firmly

press the tank body to the firewall and allow the silicone sealer to

set before proceeding.

❑7) Glue the provided 10 mm sq. x 103 mm balsa tank retainer

strip into position against the fuselage sides and firmly against the

rear of the tank. Trim as required to obtain a snug fit against the

fuselage sides. We suggest using a drop or two of thin CA glue to

both sides of the retainer strip, where it contacts the *fuselage.

This secures the strip nicely, but still allows it to be easily removed

should the need ever arise.

Final Engine & Throttle Linkage Installation:

❑1) Install the engine to the motor mount arms, using

appropriate sized socket head bolts, lock washers, flat washers,

and lock nuts (not provided).

❑2) Now is the time to address any modifications or clearance

holes that may be needed for your particular engine installation in

the nose of the fuselage. These may include muffler clearance,

system in this airplane.One fuel line is connected to the fuel

pick-up (clunk) line and to the engine's carburetor. This same can

then be used to fill the tank. The second line is the overflow line,

used when filling the tank. After the tank is full, this fuel line is then

connected to the pressure tap on the engine muffler, providing

muffler pressure to the tank when it is running.

❑2) Note that the rubber stopper has three holes molded into

the flanged side but not opened up on the interior side. Two of

these holes will be used for the fuel lines and need to be opened.

Insert the two aluminum tubes through these holes until about 1/2"

(12.7 mm) protrudes from the flat end of the stopper.

❑3) Gently bend the longer overflow tube upwards towards the

top of the tank on the inside. Cut the end of the short piece of

silicone tube at a 45Oangle. Slip this tube over the vent tube and

adjust until it just makes contact to the top of the tank. Make sure

the opening in the end of the tube does not become blocked by the

top of the tank. Adjust the length of the longer silicon tube to the

clunk weight, allowing the weight to move freely inside the tank and

so it is about 3/8" away from the back of the tank when at rest.

Install this tube on the other aluminum tube inside the tank.

❑4) Install the stopper assembly

into the neck of the tank and

secure it with a zip tie over the

flange on the tank neck.

In front view, the neck should be

offset slightly to the right and the

overflow tube should go to the top

of the tank.

MODELER’S NOTE: Whenever we assemble a new tank or

refit an older tank with new fittings, we make it a practice to

pressure-check the finished tank before installing it in the

model. This is simple to do. Simply install a couple of lengths

of fuel tubing onto the tank overflow and fuel line tubes. Then

submerge the tank into a pot of water. Blow into one or both of

the fuel lines and look for any "bubbles" coming from the tank

body. Make any fixes necessary and then install your fuel tank

with confidence.

❑8) If your engine installation is a 4-stroke type, all of the

previous instructions apply with the exception of the throttle cable.

From inside the fuselage, insert the unprepared end of the throttle

cable into the housing tube, feeding it all the way up to the engine

compartment and through the hole in the pushrod connector on the

carburetor arm (previously installed).

Connect the nylon R/C link into the outermost hole in the servo

output arm. Glue the throttle tubing support to the side of the

fuselage.

Use your radio system to adjust the throttle servo movement to

achieve true "low" and "high" throttle settings, with no binding.

Once satisfied with this initial set-up, tighten the setscrew in the

pushrod connector. Trim any excess throttle cable, as needed and

reinstall and tighten the servo output arm retaining screw.

❑9) With the engine installation now complete, the provided

3" dia. spinner assembly can be installed to the engine. First,

measure the outside diameter of the propeller shaft on your

engine. The center hole in the spinner backplate must be drilled

out to clear the prop shaft of your particular engine. This is best

done using a drill press.

Slip the spinner backplate onto the prop shaft of the engine,

needle valve holes, etc. These can be easily made using a

Dremel®Tool and sanding bits. Once these openings or clearances

have been made, any exposed wood should be fuel-proofed. This

can be done using thin CA glue, clear dope, or surfacing resin.

Finally, cut and install two lengths of fuel tubing, connecting the

fuel tank pick-up line with the carburetor and the tank overflow line

with the pressure tap in the engine muffler.

❑3) Prepare the throttle servo for installation by first installing

the rubber grommets and brass eyelets into the mounting lugs.

Place the throttle servo into the appropriate opening in the

fuselage servo tray and mark the four mounting screw locations

onto the servo tray. Remove the servo and drill four pilot holes for

the servo mounting screws. Place the servo back into the servo

tray and use the screws provided with your radio system to secure

it in place. Connect the throttle servo to the receiver and use

the radio to make sure the throttle arm is moving in the proper

direction to obtain high and low throttle settings at the carburetor.

Remove and reposition the servo arm as needed to achieve equal

fore and aft movement. Slip the laser-cut plywood pushrod

housing tube guide over the throttle tube.

❑4) The throttle cable is now prepared. Solder the 2-56

threaded coupler onto one end of the 1/16" dia.x 18" throttle cable.

Thread the 2-56 nylon R/C link onto the threaded coupler until

1/16" of threads are showing inside of the link.

Carefully note that if your engine is a 2-stroke type, the end of the

throttle cable with the soldered coupler and nylon R/C link will be

located at the carburetor throttle arm. Conversely, if your engine is

a 4-stroke type, the nylon R/C link will be located at the throttle

servo.

❑5) In the case of a 2-stroke engine installation, install the

pushrod connector with setscrew in the outermost hole of the

servo arm. Now insert the unprepared end of the throttle cable into

the nylon tube at the firewall and feed it back into the radio

compartment and into and through the pushrod connector on the

servo arm.

❑6) Using thick or medium CA glue, position and glue the

plywood pushrod tubing support directly to the side of the fuselage,

about 4" ahead of the servo.

❑7) With the carburetor fully closed and the servo rotated to the

idle position, tighten the setscrew in the pushrod connector,

locking the cable in place. Using your radio system, adjust the

servo end points to achieve full throttle servo travel with no binding

at either end of the throttle cable. Once satisfied with this initial

set-up, reinstall and tighten the servo output arm retaining screw.

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