SIG Bristol Scout Manual de usuario

Assembly Instructions

One of the most attractive rotary engined single-seat airplanes of World War I was the elegant little Bristol Scout. Based on a pre-war

racing design by Frank Barnwell, the diminutive Bristol Scout (22ft wingspan) was considered fast (97mph) and maneuverable when

it was introduced in late 1914. The Scout was used by both the Royal Flying Corps and the Royal Naval Air Service.

The first version to enter service in the war was the Bristol Scout C. Initially unarmed, the Scout C became a test bed for various ways

of mounting a machine gun to an airplane. Capt. Lanoe Hawker of RFC Sqn. 6 devised a method of mounting a Lewis gun to the

fuselage side of his Scout C. The gun was angled outward at a 45° angle to clear the propeller arc. With his new gun, Hawker became

the first pilot to be awarded the Victoria Cross for aerial combat when he attacked three German aircraft on July 25, 1915, destroying

one and damaging the others. Adding to this, Hawker had downed another enemy airplane four days previously.

Other pilots mounted a Lewis gun on the top wing, high enough to fire over the propeller arc. Some RNAS pilots simply mounted a

gun in front of the windscreen and fired through the revolving propeller without the benefit of an interrupter gear. If they were lucky

enough to avoid shooting off their propeller, the holes in the blades would be plugged and taped over before the next flight. By March

1916, the newer Bristol Scout D became the first British fighter to be armed with a synchronised machine gun that could safely fire

through the propeller arc. This configuration became the favorite mount of British ace Maj. James McCudden.

Soon outdated by more newer designs, the Bristol Scout was withdrawn from front line service in the summer of 1916 and relegated

to use as a trainer. Ultimately 161 Scout Cs had been produced, and 210 Scout Ds. Only one Bristol Scout D, ser. #5570, survived the

war, and it was owned by various civilian pilots until it was scrapped in 1930.

Your Sig Bristol Scout is a delightful reproduction of this classic biplane. Being a park flyer, your Bristol Scout is capable of being

flown in small restricted areas. The rugged airframe is very light weight and will provide many enjoyable flights. Take your time and

follow the assembly instructions carefully, and your Bristol Scout will take you on many rewarding flights.

SIG BRISTOL SCOUT SPECIFICATIONS:

Wingspan: 30.7”

Wing Area: 301.5 sq.”

Length: 25.5”

Weight: 10.8 - 11.2oz

Wing Loading: 5.2 - 5.4oz/sq.’

Power System: 180 Class with 4.4:1 Gear Box

Propeller: E.M.I. 8.5” x 8” Propeller (215.9 x 203mm)

Radio Requirements:

(1) 3 or more channel transmitter on “Aircraft” Frequency

(1) Micro Receiver

(1) Micro Servos

(1) 5amp Electronic Speed Control

Battery: 6 cell, 720AAA mAh NiMh Square Pack

Flying Time: 10 - 15 Minutes

Kit # SIGRC94ARF

Bristol Scouts of the Royal Naval Air Service on the western front 1914.

Bag #1: SIGRPFU294

1...Bristol Scout Left Fuselage Side

1...Bristol Scout Right Fuselage Side

Bag #5:

1...Bristol Scout Molded Plastic Hatch Cover SIGRPHC294

1...E.M.I. 8.5” x 8” Propeller SIGRPPROP293

Bag #6: SIGRPWH294

2...Bristol Scout 50mm Dia. Main Wheels

4...Wheel Retainers

2...Bristol Scout Molded Plastic Wheel Covers

SIGRPTF294

1...Bristol Scout Foam Horizontal Tail (Stabilizer & Elevator)

1...Bristol Scout Foam Vertical Tail (Rudder & Fin)

SIGRPWK294

1...Bristol Scout Top Wing

1...Bristol Scout Bottom Wing

2...Wing Reinforcing Tape

Bag #4: SIGRPMGDU293

1...Sig180 Class Power System

2...#3 x 10mm Phillips-Head Sheet Metal Screws

1...Soft Rubber Prop Shaft Protector

Kit Contents: Do a complete inventory of your kit before starting assembly.

Bag #2: SIGRPWB294

1...Bristol Scout Wooden Parts Die-Cut Sheet

Bag #3 & Bag #4: SIGRPCW294

1...Bristol Scout Molded Plastic Left Cowl Half

1...Bristol Scout Molded Plastic Right Cowl Half

1...Bristol Scout Molded Plastic Nose Ring

Bag #7:

Bag #8:

4...Wing Attach Rubber Bands (#32)

2...#2 x 8mm Phillips-Head Sheet Metal Screws (cowl attach)

1...Velcro® Hatch attach strips

2...Molded Plastic Control Horn

2...Molded Plastic Control Horn Retainer

2...Molded Plastic Control Horn Clevis

2...Molded Plastic Control Horn Clevis Retainer

2...4mm x 3-11/16” Aluminum Wing Tubes

Loose Packed in Box:

1...Bristol Scout Wire Main Landing Gear SIGRPBM294

2...Wire Pushrods with “Z” Bend at one end

1...Bristol Scout Decal Sheet SIGDKM294

1...Instruction Manual (not shown)

Additional Items Needed To Complete This Model

Tools and Supplies:

- Small Phillips Screw Driver - Hobby Knife With #11 Blade - Needle Nose Pliers - Straight Pins

- Small Side Cutting Pliers - 12” Ruler - Small 90° Square - 1” Paint Brush

- Scissors - 1/16” Drill Bit

- Sig 5-Minute Epoxy - 220 Grit Sandpaper - #32 Rubber Bands or Low Tack Drafting Tape

- Sig 30-Minute Epoxy - Rubbing Alcohol

- Sig Thin C/A Glue - 3/4” wide 3M Scotch® Crystal Clear Tape

Radio Equipment:

Transmitter... We used a HiTEC 4-channel transmitter. Although the Sig Bristol Scout only needs three channels for operation, a four

channel or more transmitter will work fine when used in conjunction with an ultra light receiver and servos, as explained below. We

do not recommend that you buy a new 3-channel transmitter just for the Bristol Scout. If you need to buy a new transmitter, we

recommend that you buy one with four or more channels, that will allow you to fly more advanced models in the future.

Airborne Radio Components... We used the HiTEC FEATHER PACK, which is a package offered by HiTECH of ultra light airborne

components for small electric models like the Bristol Scout. Other radio companies may offer a similar package of light weight

airborne components. The HiTEC FEATHER PACK includes a FEATHER-4 ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT 4-CHANNEL RECEIVER,

Two HS-55 FEATHER SERVOS and a MICRO SWITCH HARNESS. There are a number of other small receivers and servos on the

market that can be substituted with equally good results. Select components that have specifications similar to the HiTEC equipment

listed. Watch the weight of components carefully as using heavier than recommended equipment will have a detrimental effect on the

flight performance of your Sig Bristol Scout.

Electronic Speed Control... We used a MAXX PRODUCTS MX-9104 MICRO ELECTRIC SPEED CONTROLLER. Other

electronic speed controllers may be used as long as the have a minimum rating of 5 amps.

Batteries:

The transmitter can either have alkaline or rechargeable NiCad batteries. Use the batteries recommended by the manufacturer of the

transmitter.

The airborne battery powers both the electric motor and the airborne radio components. The recommended battery is a 6-cell (AAA)

720 mAh NiMh (Nickel Metal Hydride) rechargeable pack. This pack is matched to the models power system and performance. When

properly charged and with proper throttle management, this battery pack can provide flights in excess of 15 minutes.

Chargers:

If your transmitter has rechargeable batteries, use the charger that is supplied or recommended by the manufacturer. This is

usually a slow charger (overnight). Although there will be some variation from transmitter to transmitter, the average fully charged

transmitter battery will provide around two hours of operation.

The airborne battery charger is an extremely important piece of equipment and failure to select an acceptable charger or improper

operation will cause performance problems and unsatisfactory results. A majority of performance related problems can be traced

directly to improperly or incompletely charged batteries.

To charge the recommended battery pack you MUST have a charger that is capable of performing peak detection charging of NiMH

(Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries. We used an Astro Flite 112D charger. This unit is capable of charging at different rates and uses a

12 volt power supply such as a car battery. Other chargers can be used as long as they have capabilities similar to the Astro 112D.

Before Beginning Assembly

Take your time and follow the assembly instructions carefully. The foam parts of your Bristol Scout can be dented easily so be gentle. To

help protect your model during assembly, cover your work bench with a towel or a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet. Use only the glues

specified or you will damage the parts. Specifically, DO NOT use C/A Glue on any of the foam parts or they will be damaged.

Twist tube to bevel

Remove burrs from ends

Slight bevel on inside

Fuselage Straight Fuselage Bent

Fuselage side (cross section)

Apply epoxy sparingly to inside

edge of one fuselage side

as shown.

GOOD BAD

Assembly Starts Here:

1...Use a small piece of 220 grit sandpaper to remove any

burrs from the ends of the two 4mm x 3-11/16” Aluminum

Wing Tubes. Now use your hobby knife to slightly

bevel/sharpen the inside of one end of one tube as shown.

2...Prepare the fuselage sides for assembly by using the

sharpened end of the aluminum tube to open up the four holes

in the fuselage sides. Lay the fuselage side flat on a firm

surface and gently press the tube into the hole with a twisting

motion to finish cutting through the fuselage sides. Next, use

your Hobby Knife to open up the pushrod holes in the rear of

each fuselage side. Finally, lightly sand the mating surfaces

of both sides to remove any flashing from the foam.

3...Carefully apply 30 minute epoxy to one of the fuselage

sides as shown. Since the epoxy is many times stronger than

the foam, you only need to use a small amount to bond the

fuselage sides together. By applying the epoxy in this manner

you will eliminate having a lot of epoxy squeezing out on the

outside of the model. We recommend using #32 rubber bands

to hold the fuselage sides together until the epoxy hardens.

Use care to make sure that the fuselage is straight and not bent

or twisted. NOTE:You can also use low-tack drafting tape to

hold the fuselage sides together if preferred. However, use

caution because tape can pull the paint off the model if the

adhesive is too tacky. Use tape only on areas of the model that

will not be seen after it is completely assembled.

Servo Tray

Firewall &

Cowl Mounts

Wing Tubes

Tail Skid

4...Use 5-minute epoxy to glue the

plywood Firewall, (2) Cowl Mounts,

Servo Tray, Tailskid, and aluminum

Wing Tubes in place in the fuselage.

Be sure the firewall is seated snugly into

the recess molded in the front of the

fuselage. This provides built-in down

and right thrust to the motor.

Glue the servo tray in with the grain

running across the fuselage.

The wing tubes should stick out an

equal amount on each side of the

fuselage.

The tail skid should be positioned at the

very front of the slot.

5...Use 3/4” wide 3M Scotch® Crystal Clear Tape to hinge

the tail surfaces. Apply a strip of tape to the top of the

Horizontal Tail and another strip on the bottom. Each tape

strip should be centered over the slot between the parts and

should run the full length of the slot. Do the same to both

sides of the Vertical Tail.

NOTE: 3/4” wide tape is available at most office supply

stores. Use only clear tranparent tape. Do not use frosted

Scotch® Magic Tape.

6...Use a sharp new hobby knife to trim the foam tabs and

excess tape from both ends of the horizontal tail and the top

and bottom of the rudder tab.

7...Use a small diameter dowel with a smooth rounded end,

or similar shaped object, to indent the tape on each side of

the tail surface until the two pieces of tape contact each other

in the middle of the hinge gap, creating the finished hinge.

8...Apply the rudder decals to both sides of the rudder.

DECAL APPLICATION NOTES: The decals provided in this kit are a type of water transfer decal that you may not have used

before. They are extremely thin and light, and when they are on the model they look like they’re painted on. Notice that the decals

are printed on the paper carrier upside down. There is a thin clear plastic sheet over the decals that protects a low tack adhesive.

9...Use your hobby knife to open the control

horn slots in the rudder & elevators. Insert

the rudder control horn so that the arm sticks

out of the left side of the rudder. Insert the

elevator horn from the top so that the horn

sticks down from the bottom. Now slide the

retainer plates onto the horns and press into

position to lock the control horn in place.

You will hear or feel two clicks when the

retainer is in the proper position.

GOOD

BAD

90°

To apply the decals, leave the clear plastic in

position while you cut the individual

marking from the main sheet. Then remove

the clear plastic and place the decal on the

model in the desired position, adhesive side

down. Make sure you get the decal exactly

where you want it. The light tack adhesive

allows the decal to be picked up and

repositioned if necessary. With the decal in

the proper position, use a brush to generously

12...Plug the airborne electronics together and test for proper function. The two servos are plugged into channels 1 and 2 on the

receiver. The electronic speed control plugs into channel 3 on the receiver. Plug the motor, without the prop in place, into the

output of the electronic speed control. Fully charge the transmitter and airborne battery.

apply cold tap water to the paper. The paper will immediately begin to soak up the water. Let the paper soak for at least 30 seconds,

and then carefully SLIDE the paper from the top of the decal. DO NOT try to lift the paper from the decal as it will damage the decal.

Also, after the paper is removed DO NOT try to move the decal on the model surface. The decal is very thin and fragile. If the decal

has air bubbles under it, use a soft cloth to pat out the bubbles, making sure that you pat straight up and down, not sideways. DO NOT

try to push the bubbles sideways out from under the decal. While these decals are more fragile than “normal” decals, the end result

is a marking that looks like it was painted on. Allow the decal to dry at least one hour before handling.

10... Attach the lower wing to the fuselage with two rubber

bands. Use 5 minute epoxy to glue the horizontal

stabilizer to the fuselage. The stabilizer should be roughly

parallel to the wing and should not tilt to the left or right.

Use several straight pins to hold the stabilizer in position

until the epoxy sets. Any excess epoxy that enters the fin

slot in the stabilizer and fuselage must be cleaned out

before it dries.

11...Use 5 minute epoxy to glue the vertical stabilizer to the

fuselage. The tab on the front of the vertical stabilizer is

inserted completely into the slot in the aft end of the

fuselage and should be 90° to the horizontal, and should not

tilt to the left or right. Use several straight pins to hold the

vertical stabilizer in position until the epoxy sets.

13...Install the servos into the plywood servo tray. The servo

output arms should be at the back end of the servo. Use care

to not move the servo output arms from their neutral position.

Feed the wire pushrods into the fuselage from the rear exits.

The “Z” bends should be at the front and attached to the

output arms. Tighten the servo arm screws.

14...Slide the plastic Control Horn Clevis Retainer onto the

rudder pushrod wire. Snap the plastic Control Horn Clevis

into the rudder control horn. Then with the rudder servo in

neutral position, hold the rudder in neutral while you lay the

threaded end of the pushrod wire into the groove in the

plastic clevis. Push the wire down firmly into the groove.

15...Slide the Clevis Retainer onto the Clevis, trapping the

pushrod wire in place. Check to be sure that the rudder is still

in the neutral position. If it is not, unsnap the clevis from the

control horn and adjust the pushrod length by screwing the

clevis in or out on the threads.

Now repeat this process to install the clevis onto the elevator

pushrod.

Clevis

To operate the system, first turn the transmitter

on and place the throttle stick in the low

position. Now plug the airborne battery into

the input side of the electronic speed control

and the system is operational (see NOTICE:

below). Test the system by moving the right

stick on the transmitter, which should move the

rudder and elevator servos.

Initially, the motor is not armed and will not

function when you move the throttle stick. To

arm the motor you must move the throttle stick

to the high position and hold it there for

several seconds. Then move the throttle stick to

the low position and hold it there for several

seconds. The motor is now armed. Moving the

throttle stick now will activate the motor. Make

sure everything is functioning properly on your workbench BEFORE you install any of the components into the model. While the

radio is on make sure that the rudder & elevator trim levers on the transmitter are in the centered position. This will make sure that

the servos are centered. Unplug the battery from the electronic speed control to turn the system off.

NOTICE: The HiTEC FEATHER PACK airborne package we used came with a small MICRO SWITCH HARNESS. We

elected not to use the switch harness to save weight. It is easy to turn the radio system on and off simply by plugging in and

unplugging the battery pack.

Clevis

Retainer

Velcro

16...Finally, plug the servos and electronic speed control

into the receiver. Place the receiver in the fuselage beneath

the servos. The electronic speed controller sits on the

bottom of the fuselage in the battery compartment, between

the servos and the firewall. Plug the battery into the system

and check the radio for proper operation. If the servos move

in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing switches on

your transmitter to change the direction of travel.

Adjust the control throws to the following measurements:

Rudder: 3/4” Right 3/4” Left

Elevator: 1/2” Up 1/2” Down

17...Drill a 1/16” hole in the bottom of the fuselage at the

location shown. Feed the receiver antenna through this hole.

Pull the antenna back to the rear of the fuselage and hold it

in place just in front of the tail skid with a piece of Scotch®

Tape. Allow the full length of the antenna to trail behind the

model. Do not cut the antenna to shorten it, as that will

reduce the reception range of your radio.

18...Remove the cabane struts from the die cut plywood

sheet and glue them to the fuselage sides using 5 minute

epoxy. They should sit on the ledges on the bottom of the

pockets on the side of the fuselage. When viewed from the

front the cabane struts should be vertical and should not lean

to one side or the other.

19...Trim the plastic Hatch Cover as shown. Test fit the

Hatch Cover to the fuselage and adjust as required

to achieve a proper fit. Note: A sharp hobby knife and

miniature snips are the best tools for trimming the part.

Remove the paper from the adhesive on one side of the

velcro squares and apply the two velcro squares to the top of

the fuselage as shown. Now remove the paper from the

adhesive on the top of the velcro and press the plastic

Hatch cover into position to attach the velcro to the cover.

22..Apply the Wing Reinforcing Tape (14mm X 43mm) to the lead-

ing edge of both the top and bottom wing. The tape should be cen-

tered on the leading edge left and right and should be applied so

that it wraps around the leading edge with half on the top of the

wing and half on the bottom of the wing.

Apply the two star decals to the top of the top wing and allow to

dry.

Remove the two plywood wing struts from the die cut sheet. Insert

the struts through the bottom wing. Use 5 minute epoxy to attach

the struts to the bottom wing. The struts should be aligned vertical.

Now glue the top stubs into the top wing with 5 minute epoxy.

Align the wings square and allow the epoxy to dry.

22..Use 5 minute epoxy to glue the two die cut plywood landing

gear inserts into position on the landing gear. The short one goes

at the front of the landing gear and the taller one is at the rear.

Trim the two Molded Plastic Wheel Covers as shown. Use a 1/16”

drill bit to drill a hole for the axle in the center of each cover.

Press one Wheel Retainer on each axle and slide all of the way in.

Now place the wheel, wheel cover and outer Wheel Retainer into

position. The outer wheel retainer should spaced so that the wheel

turns freely.

23..Attach the wing on the model using 4 rubber bands. Now

install the landing gear by pressing the front and rear upper ends

completely into the slots in the fuselage. Attach the number decals to the fuselage sides between the wing and the tail surfaces.

24...Plug the speed control into the receiver. Charge and connect

the airborne battery and test the radio and power system WITH-

OUT THE PROPELLER ATTACHED.

Make sure that all of the controls and the throttle function properly.

When everything checks out, securely attach the propeller onto the

power system.

25...Place the battery in the model and install the Plastic Cockpit

Cover. Check the balance of the model. To do this, turn the model

upside down and support the model on your finger tips placed 1/2”

back from the leading edge of the bottom wing. Hold your fingers

20...Pre-drill the two motor mount holes in the firewall with a

1/16” drill bit. Use the two #3 x 10mm Phillips-Head Sheet

Metal Screws to attach the motor to the front of the model.

Feed the motor connector through the hole in the front of the

fuselage and connect it to the electronic speed controller.

21...Trim and assemble the molded plastic Cowl as follows:

A. Trim the round plastic front ftom the cowl as shown.

B. Trim the plastic from the back of the cowl and remove the

landing gear slot.

C. Trim the plastic from the hatch opening. Trim the flanges

along the top and bottom of the cowl to /1/6” wide.

D. Tape the left and right cowl halves together. Carefully

allign the edges and be sure that they make full contact and glue

the cowl halves together.

E. Trim the flange from the base of the nose bowl and

remove the plastic from the front opening.

F. Glue the nose bowl to the front of the cowl halves..

G. Fit the cowl onto the model. Use a 1/32” bit to drill two

mounting holes through the cowl and into the plywood cowl

mounts. Mount the cowl to the model using the two

#2 x 8mm Phillips-Head Sheet Metal Screws to attach the cowl

to the model.

22...Apply the Wing Reinforcing Tape (14mm x 43mm) to the

leading edges of both the top and bottom wings. The tape

should be centered left-to-right on the leading edge, and it

should be applied so that it wraps around the leading edge with

half on the top of the wing and half on the bottom of the wing.

23...Apply the two star decals to the top of the top wing and

allow to dry.

Step 21A Step 21B

Step 21C Step 21D

Step 21G

Steps 21E & F

Remove bubble

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