Phoenix Props Kylo V2 Manual de usuario
Phoenix Props Kylo V2 assembly instructions
This is to help you put this saber together, give you an idea where all the screws go, how the parts
assemble and so on.
This is a example of the unpacked saber you will get.
In the box the top half and shroud are separate from the lower half of the hilt. Simply put them
together. The hole on the shroud below the cutout should line up with the hole on the main body.
These holes are where the cable holders fit.
Inside the box is also a small bog of parts (should be inside the hilt body and the display plaque.
This is an exploded view of the parts
Here you see the 2 different clip spacers, the clip, screws and wires.
The black 8mmtall bar should be used when you plan on using the saber to hang on your belt for
cosplay. If you only will display your saber and cliping it on a belt is not important then use the silver
4mm bar. The hero prop, prop shop hilt and several actual props have this 4mm high bar and it’s not
functional so I’m giving you the choice based on what you want to do with your saber.
If you use the 8mm spcaer for functionality, you’ll need to use the 2 x 12mm screws. If you use the
4mm spacer, this is what the 2 x 8mm screws are for. All of these screws are M2.5. You can also use
the 12mm screws for both bars if you like, but the 12mm screws might cause issues with a chassis if
you’re using them with the 4mm bar.
The 2 blue wires for the core and the red wire for the length of the saber.
4 cable holders for gluing to the body of the hilt.
3 round headed M3 main body screws.
Here is an exposed view of the upper section. The 3 blade plugs are fixed with a setscrew. The
Quillion setscrew is M2.5 and the main blade in M3.
The 2 quillion emitters screw on. Please pay attention to which side they are on. Each one is only
guaranteed to align right on the side it’s attached to when you got it. So if you swap them and things
don’t align, just swap them back.
Inside the core at the quillion there are 2 heatsinks with 2 holes to pass through wires for those who
wish to install the electronics. These heatsinks do not remove. They are fixed in. If you really, really
want to remove them it’s possible by heating the area and turning them out. It may take a lot of
force. Best to leave them.
This piece does not disassemble more. The upper and lower section of the core are in a fixed
position. This ensures the correct alignment.
The lower section also disassembles some. You can unscrew the red endcap and inside, you will see a
hand engraved number. This number should match the display plate you have as well. Once you
unscrew the redcap, you can stick a finger in the core and then turn the core out.
If you wish to remove the blade plugs, it’s very simple. Here is how you do it. Please be aware, this is
a M2.5 screw and as a very small screw, and if you’re not careful it can strip. So please be careful to
avoid overtightening to not strip it out.
To remove the mainplade/core there are 2 M3 set screws under the shroud on the back side.
These screws are also acessable with the shroud on.
The core semi and fully assembled.
When you want to add in the red wire, look under the saber with the core out. There is a 3mm hole
to the left of the spacer location, under the saber. The wire will simply be plugged in and the wire
will stay in place without any glue.
Then you screw in the core, which also acts to hold this piece in place.
In order to hold the red wire at the top, you will fold this under around the opening in the core. If you
need to open the saber, you can simply pop this extra wire out and pull it through the wire holders.
As an alternative you can epoxy the red wire to the backside of the emitter and to open the saber
remove the lower core and release the wire at the bottom.
Here is where you place the blue wires. You may have to cut them a little shorter. I gave extra for
safety. You can simply epoxy them down. Be careful at the top as only a small part is hidden, so don’t
use much glue otherwise you’ll see the glue through the shroud when it’s put on.
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