Meister Scale P-47 Manual

102” REPUBLIC P-47 THUNDERBOLT

BUILD INSTRUCTIONS

(COPYRIGHT PROTECTED 2014)

BEFORE YOUR START

The fuselage self-jigging system used allows easy accurate assembly. But, attention to

detail when cutting the parts from your patterns is very important.

SUGGESTIONS FOR PARTS ACCURACY

1. Cut the patterns to within 1/4” of the outside lines.

2. Attach to the selected wood with scotch tape.

3. Use a #11 blade to punch through the patterns. Every few inches, place scotch

tape over the cut area. When done, you still have the patterns to verify your

finished parts. If you acquire a desk style scotch tape dispenser it will be a great

asset now and in the future.

4. Alternate methods used are of carbon paper over the wood, or “SEE TEMP” to

make separate patterns while preserving the originals.

5. After cutting out the bulkheads, make a 1/4” x 3/8” x 1” piece of balsa to be used

as a depth gauge. Check all notches in the bulkheads for proper depth. (Same for

wing rib notches.)

REMOVAL, ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLING THE WHITE PLASTIC PARTS

1. A small pair of tin snips is an excellent choice for accurate and easy cutting along

the separation lines. A razor saw is good for straight cuts.

2. When ready to install the several plastic parts to the fuselage, tape the parts in

place. Use thick C.A. to glue. DO NOT use kicker as it will attack the plastic.

BELIEVE!

CANOPY

1. When canopy has been fitted and exactly in place on the fuselage, install some

pins next to the front windshield, along the bottom of the sides and at the rear to

facilitate exact location when gluing the canopy down. Note: Recommend five-

minute epoxy or R/C 56 glues. Do Not Use C.A.

WING INSTRUCTIONS

Note: This wing design has a flat bottom, thus no need for jigs, etc. However, you will

need a flat surface to build your wing. If you don’t have a suitable surface, find an

inexpensive hollow door from your local Home Depot or building supply store. Use a

level to insure no twist exists.

1. After all ribs have been cut out, do yourself a favor. Check all spar notches for

exact depth and width NOW! Make up the “spar brace” now. It should be just

under 3/4” wide. Make from basswood or equivalent. Write left and right on

each end.

Note: The 3/8” x 3/4” spar material must all be of the same width (3/4”) in order

for the shear webs to fit flush to the bottom, mid and upper spars. Check this

now.

2. Make up the main rear spars now. There are 2 lefts and 2 rights, so go slow. The

1/4” x 3/8” spars install to the bottom of the wing (see rib notches).

Note: This wing is framed directly on the plans without any sheet. The wing

sheet panels are shown with dotted lines and are made up after complete wing

framing is complete. The flaps (optional) and ailerons are fabricated away from

the main wing plans.

3. Epoxy the W-5A and W-7A doublers to the W-5 and W-7 ribs. Remember to

make up two lefts and two rights as the “A’s” face each other. Important!

4. Pin in place the main and secondary spars. Also the flap FH-1 and aileron AH-1

headers.

5. Install all ribs now. Be sure that they all touch the work surface. Adjust notches

as needed.

6. Loosely install the top spars. Use a 48” straight edge to check that the spars are

seated into the notches and have no high spots. Adjust as needed. Do not glue

yet.

7. Install the single piece 3/32” balsa shear web’s to center of both bottom spars

between ribs W-7 and W-12.

8. Put in place the two top spars. Check for high spots. Trim the shear webs as

needed. With the spars straight glue in place.

9. Install front and rear vertical grain 3/32” shear webbing to the secondary spar.

10. Install the 3/32” vertical grain shear webbing to the front only of the main spar

W-1 thru W-7.

WING SEPARATION FEATURE

11. Place your “Spar Brace” in place against the bottom spar. Wedge in place. Be

sure the centerline on your “Spar Brace” is lined up with W-1. (Note: If you want

a one piece wing, glue the “spar brace” to the bottom spar.)

12. Cut the mid spar pieces 3/8” x 3/4” stock to 3-7/8” long. Place against the top of

“Spar Brace” and against the front shear web. Apply a small amount of thick

C.A. to each end where it touches theW-5 and W-6 ribs. When set remove the

“Spar Brace” to insure that the glue did not contact the “Brace.”

13. Reinstall spar brace and repeat above until all mid spar pieces are in place. Note:

The piece between W-1 and W-2 has to be shaped in order to fit in place.

14. Remove spar brace. Thoroughly glue (C.A.) all mid spar pieces to the front web

and ribs.

15. Now install the shear webs to the back of the main spar. Use thick C.A. and not

so much that it runs inside of cavity.

16. Watch for glue running into “Spar Brace” cavity. Remove any globs.

17. Install the spar brace and check fit. It must enter to a depth of the centerline. Did

you put the proper left-right side into the wing when doing the mid spar

assembly? If not, change the designation (reverse the left right).

18. Install the “G.P.” (Gear Plate) and two “G.B.” (Gear Blocks) to W-5, 6, & 7.

Install 1/4” thick by 3/8” balsa to top and bottom of “G.P.” at W-5 & 7.

19. Install the “Wing Tongue” to front of W-1-2. Use 30 Minute Epoxy.

20. Pin the 1/8” L.E.-2 to front of ribs with the top edge even with the top front of the

ribs. Use your straight edge to check for ribs that are too long. Trim. Glue in

place. Sand to an angle that part of L.E.-2, which flows into rib contour.

21. Install the W.P.B. 1/8” ply part between W-1 and W-2 behind the flap header.

Install the 1/8” balsa F.H.-2 to F.H.-1. This part ends flush with top of ribs (see

plans).

22. Your retracts should be installed now if you are going to use bolts and blind nuts.

If you plan on using sheet metal screws you may proceed. The flap actuators are

also installed NOW!

23. Make up 4 “A”-“B” wing sheet parts. Glue the “B”s to the “A”s. (You will have

to add on a 1”extension to the “A” and “C” sheets.) (Do this to the tip end.)

24. Make up 4 “D” and “E” sheets. Glue together. The “E” sheet is cut to size of “E”

template shown.

25. The top and bottom “C” sheets are now installed. The front of these panels

centers on to the secondary spar (front). Note: When cutting the edges so that

they are straight, be sure the width of “C” sheet is 3 15/16” wide when done.

26. The “D”-“E” panel is trimmed so that the rear edge centers onto the 1/4” x 1/4”

spar before gluing in place. The “H” panel (3/32” bal with 1/32” ply laminate)

butts to the rear of “D”-“E” panel. See side view of flap detail and detail shown

on right wing plan.

27. Make up “E” panel and sand angle to it as shown on side view of flap. Lay aside.

28. For proper flap fit to the wing it is important that the rear edge of the “E” sheet

centers on the 1/4” x 1/4” spar. Doing so properly positions the “H” panel in

relation to flap.

Note: Do not install the “D”-“E” sheets until flap actuation system is decided on.

We only show the system we think is most appropriate. You may actuate the flap

in same fashion as ailerons if you like.

29. Proceed to build ailerons and flaps. Suggest that you install flap hinges (Dubro

#257 suggested) before installing the “H” panel to wing.

Note: The flap activators shown will work with standard 70 oz. servos. However,

180° proportional servos would be a better choice. In order for the aileron to

operate freely when the flaps are down, you will have to angle sand the end of the

aileron. This will not be noticed from above.

30. See plans instructions for aileron and flap building instructions.

HORIZONTAL STAB INSTRUCTIONS

1. Draw a straight line on your workbench 36” long. Center both S-9’s onto this

line. Glue the S-10 onto the S-9’s. Pin the assembly to your work surface in a

convenient place to work.

2. Be sure you have the 90° braces on hand. Glue the two W-1’s together. Put rib

location marks onto the S-8’s and S-9’s NOW.

3. Pin the W-1s in place (onto the S-10). Install the 90° brace in place – glue base to

S-10.

4. In order to use a square to align the W-1’s you will need two pieces of 1/8” balsa

under one end of the square to level it with the top of S-10. A centerline on the

W-1’s helps with alignment.

5. Repeat step 3 and 4 to install S-6. Be sure you install the hinge blocks now.

6. Install S-8’s.

7. Install all ribs now. Be sure that they are not over length, as they will cause a bow

in the S-8’s (use a straight edge along S-8 at this time).

8. Important: Install the inboard hinge blocks NOW! Don’t forget!!

9. Sand an angle to top and bottom of S-8’s to match the flow of the ribs. Same for

S-9’s.

10. Make up 4 “A” “B” 1/8” balsa panels. Join the “B”s to “A”s and the scrap parts

to the “B” parts. These panels should be 1/8” larger than the frame.

11. Trial fit the panels to stab frame. Trim inboard edge so that it centers on the W-

1’s.

12. In order to avoid warping of the stab frame, it is advisable to install the top and

bottom panels at the same time. Do this as follows.

A. Pin both panels to S-8 being sure that they center on W-1s and overhang

the S-8 by 1/16”. Now glue to S-8.

B. Apply white glue to all ribs.

C. Pull both panels down onto frame and C.A. rear edges to the S-9.

D. Sand the panels flush with the S-8 and S-9.

E. Install the 3/8” x 1/2” leading edge. Shape.

F. Install S-7 tips. Do not shape these yet.

G. Reinforce the center section with 1” wide reinforcing tape and thick C.A.

or your choice of glues. IMPORTANT!

ELEVATOR INSTRUCTIONS

1. Using template supplied make up 4 1/16” balsa “E”-9 elevator parts.

2. Lay one onto the plans and pencil mark rib locations onto the “E”-9. Do the same

onto the right side “E”-9.

3. Glue the “E”-8 in place being sure it is 90° to “E”-9. You might use the hinge

blocks to assure this. Be sure the 1/8” x 1” ply control horn plate is in place.

4. Install all ribs.

5. Use a large sanding block to angle sand from the “E”-8 to the trailing edge of the

“E”-9. See cross section of elevator. If you want a scale like edge at the trailing

edge you should sand the E-9 down to about 1/32” thick or less.

6. Angle sand the top “E”-9 at its trailing edge. Same as bottom “E”-9. Cut away

that portion that overhangs the E-1.

7. Note: When top E-9 is in place the trailing edge will be slightly forward of the

bottom “E”-9 edge. This allows easy C.A. application in this area.

8. When top “E”-9 is in proper position apply C.A. to trailing edge area between

“E”-2 and “E”-4.

9. You can pry the “E”-9 away from the frame in order to apply white glue to ribs

and the rest of frame. Use masking tape to hold down while glue dries.

10. Install “E”-6 tip blocks. Sand close.

11. Hinge elevator to stab.

12. Apply masking tape to both sides of hinged area to hold elevator straight. Now

sand the stab and elevator tips to shape.

VERTICAL FIN AND RUDDER

1. The vertical fin assembles the same way as the stab.

A. Pin the F-2 to work surface.

B. Install the two 90° braces next to proper rib locations.

C. Install F-4 & F-8 ribs – be sure they are 90° both ways.

D. Install balance of ribs. Do not force them, as they will cause F-1 to distort.

E. From the supplied templates make up the fin sheet from fin sheet 1, 2 and

3 templates.

F. These fin sheet parts must install flush to top of F-8 and F-2. The lower

edges will eventually be trimmed to fit the top of the horizontal stab.

RUDDER

Note: All control surfaces on the full scale had their trailing edges end in a thickness of

1/16”. In order to duplicate this, a bit of patience is needed in properly sanding to the

correct angle the two cover sheets and the center R-3. Study the cross section before

proceeding. Decide now if you want to hinge in scale fashion.

A. Make the R-3 and R-1 parts. Both should be as hard as you have on hand.

Should be “C” grain.

B. To locate the R-1 onto the R-3, position the 3/8” x 3/4” x 16” block “A” to

front of R-3 then place the R-1 next to the block “A.” Glue R-1 only.

Remove the Block “A” – One side only.

C. Make up ribs from scrap 1/8” balsa. Glue in place one side only.

D. Put masking tape over the top edge of the R-1 to protect it from sanding

the ribs.

E. Use a 2” x 6” block sander to shape the ribs and trailing edge of the R-3.

F. Install the 1” balsa hinge block NOW!

G. Install the 1/16” sheet to the rudder. Trim.

H. Install the R-2 block “A.” Sand flush with sheet.

I. Turn over and repeat above.

UNDER BELLY (U.B.)

This assembly is designed to be removable for easy access to the hold down bolts. You

may choose to make a one piece wing and glue the under belly to the wing which will

require access holes to the wing bolts. We advise that you make the U.B. removable.

1. Assemble the U.B.2A, U.B.-2, 3, 4 and 5.

2. Install the wing and bolts. Tighten.

3. Test fit the U.B. assembly to the wing and fuse. Trim the U.B.2A as necessary.

4. Put wax paper between the ends of U.B.2A and fuse bulkheads F-2 and F-4C.

Install the assembly with pins.

5. Install the U.B.P. 6’s. The two layers of soft 1/16” will make this part easy.

Same for the U.B.P. 7’s. Use wood glue to install the top U.B.P. 6 & 7’s.

6. Remove the U.B. and install the U.B.P.-8’s.

7. Install the 1/4” x 1/2” x 2” A/C ply part (for front U.B. hold down) to the F-2 into

the opening called for on F-2 template.

8. Install the 1/8” x 1” x 3” A/C ply part to wing with 1/4” overhanging center of

wing. (This allows rear U.B. screw attachment.)

9. Install the 1/16” ply inlays at screw head locations. Drill and counter sink for

screw heads (1 - #8 x 1-1/2” wood screw and 1 - #8 x 2-1/2”).

10. Install assembly using the wood screws. Check for clearance where the U.B.P.-8

nears the wing. You should have a small gap. Install 1/4” x 1/4” stringer to

inside of U.B.P.-8 just above its edge to strengthen the area.

11. Suggest you use “Bondo” putty (available auto supply stores and elsewhere) to

make a perfect fit of the U.B. to the wing. Lay saran wrap on wing. Use tape to

hold flat.

12. Mask the area to avoid a mess. You should have a small spatula to apply and

shape your fillet. Do not create a thin edge when shaping.

FUSELAGE

The fuselage builds onto a simple crutch in the bubble canopy version. The “razor back”

version is achieved with the option formed fiberglass part available at a nominal charge.

1. The crutch drawing is supplied on the plans in two parts. Be sure to use a four

foot straight edge when taping the two drawings together.

2. Make up the fuselage side parts FS-1 and FS-1A. Use a straight edge along the

“Top” edge of these parts to insure an exact straight edge. Note: This edge glues

to the crutch and makes the crutch straight. See next step. Use 1/64” ply to

double the FS-1. See plans. It must be able to bend to conform to bulkhead

curvature.

3. The method of aligning the crutch when installing the FS-1 and 1A side parts is

very simple. Make a line down the sides of the crutch on its center. The crutch

material is 3/8” x 3/8” so the line should be 3/16” from the top or bottom of the

crutch sides. Install pins on this line at each cross piece location.

4. The top of the crutch is the side without the triangle braces. Turn over so these

triangle pieces face up. Set the sides (F.S.-1 and 1A) against the pins with the tail

ends of the sides even with F-10. Tack glue both sides at F-10 area. Be sure the

sides are down against the pins, slowly glue both sides simultaneously to the

crutch going forward from F-10. Go Slow!

5. A simple method to keep the crutch from twisting follows.

A. Install F-2 and F-8 to crutch. Make up 90° triangles from scrap to insure

these bulkheads are glued at 90° to crutch. Very Important.

B. Make up two supports from 1/8” x 7” x 12” pieces of light ply. Tack glue

to front of F-2 and F-8 up against the fuselage sides.

C. The supports align the crutch to your workbench.

D. Put the fuselage on the bench in a comfortable place to assemble. Mark

the bench where the supports touch. This allows accurate placement when

returning the model to the bench.

E. In order to check the crutch for alignment, lay an 18” long straight

anything across the crutch at F-1 and F-8. Sight these two straights from

either end of fuselage. If needed install shims to adjust the support.

Recheck alignment.

6. Tacks glue the rest of the bulkheads in place (except F-1 & F-8A). F-9A is now

installed between the F-9 & F-10. Sand the exposed edge to angle – see F-9.

7. Install the top center 1/4” x 38” stringer between F-4 and F-9 (do not glue yet).

The F-8 should be at 90° to the crutch. Measure the distance between F-8 and F-9

at the crutch level. Glue the stringer to F-8. Measure between the F-8 and F-9.

Distance should be the same as the crutch level. Adjust and glue stringer to top F-

9. Repeat this through F-4. Install F-1 firewall now. Be positive you have it at

90° to the crutch. Make 90° triangles to assure this. Install F-3 now.

Note: F-8A is installed after retract T.W. is installed to it. You may install F-8A

any time before the bottom side stringers are installed. However, before

continuing, the tiller arm and 1/8” wire part that holds the wheel must be removed

so that the retract can be retracted up into the fuselage because the rest of the

lower fuse parts are installed over the retract. Then the T.W. door material is

laminated (3 layers of 1/64” ply with a thin layer of white glue applied to both

sides of center layer) and then taped to the door area of the fuse. This creates

curve shaped doors. Then door template is then placed on the curved door

material and the doors are then cut out. Neat, eh?

8. The F-123 part when installed to top of F-1, F-2 and F-3 might require trimming

of the notches to allow the F-2 & F-3 to remain at 90° to crutch. Install the two F-

123-A and F-123-B parts now, to the first notches above crutch in bulkheads F-1,

F-2 and F-3.

9. Install the two stringers just below the crutch. Use clothespins to clamp the

bottom of FS-1 and 1 fuselage sides to the stringers. Do both sides at the same

time to avoid distortion of crutch. Check crutch alignment again. If O.K., glue

the sides to the stringers.

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