LDC Racing Sailboats RS200 Manual de usuario

RS200

OWNER’S MANUAL

LDC Racing Sailboats, Trafalgar Close, Chandlers Ford, Eastleigh

SO53 4BW, GBR

Tel. +44 (0)23 8027 4500 Fax. +44 (0)23 8027 4800

www.ldcracingsailboats.co.uk

Introduction

Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS200.

The RS200 was designed by Phil Morrison and launched in the UK at the

beginning of 1996.

Designer Phil Morrison

Length 4.00m 13'0"

Beam 1.83m 6'0"

Sail Area (main & jib) 11.52sq.m. 124sq.ft.

Sail Area (asymmetric) 8.29sq.m. 89sq.ft.

Weight 78Kg 172lbs

Important Note

The RS200 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. It is a

light weight racing dinghy and should be treated with care. In order to get

the most enjoyment from your boat and maintain it in top condition,

please read this manual carefully.

Whilst your RS boat has been carefully prepared, it is important that new

owners should check that shackles, knots, mast step bolts etc. are tight. This

is especially important when the boat is new, as travelling can loosen

seemingly tight fittings and knots. It is also important to regularly check such

items prior to sailing. Make sure that you have a basic tool kit with you the first

time you rig the boat in case there are tuning / settings changes that you wish

to make.

Index

1. Rigging and Sailing by Phil Morrison page 2

2. Care and Maintenance by Richard Woof page 20

3. Sail Care Guide by Hyde Sails page 23

4. Racing and Tuning page 24

5. RS Class Association page 27

6. Class Rules page 28

7. Class Association membership form page 35

For further information, spares, accessories, and service, please contact:

LDC Racing Sailboats

Trafalgar Close

Chandlers Ford

Eastleigh

Hants SO53 4BW

Tel: 02380 274500 Fax: 02380 274800

E-mail: [email protected]

www.ldcracingsailboats.co.uk

Rigging and Sailing

By Phil Morrison (designer)

Your RS 200 will have been examined and checked both at the factory and by

your dealer. The following is a step by step guide to rigging the boat for the

first time and some general advice on sailing your new RS 200.

Preliminary checks

As delivered the mast may be wrapped for transport please remove the

wrapping carefully and perform some preliminary checks as follows:-

(1) Check that the shroud ‘T’ terminals are correctly seated in their sockets

on the mast and that they are securely attached to the end of the spreaders.

(2) Ensure that the spreaders are angled slightly above horizontal with no

slack in the shroud above the spreader. It is a good idea to secure the

spreader ends with PVC (electrical insulating) tape to prevent them moving up

or down the shroud

(3) Wrap tape around any sharp edges onthe spreaders or brackets to

protect the spinnaker.

(4) Attach a short length of shock cord between the shrouds approximately

300mm down from the top and passing around the jib halyard and forestay

this will help prevent the spinnaker being trapped in the angle formed between

the jib halyard and the mast under certain situations.

(5) Check the spreader settings, spreaders should have been pre-set at

the factory or by your dealer but the recommended initial settings are as

follows:-

Length of spreader measured from the wall of the mast to the shroud 390mm

Distance from a line between the shrouds and the back of the mast 140mm

(6) The main and jib halyards should be sorted out and dressed neatly

down the mast

(7) Check that the spinnaker halyard passes through the Tweeker ring

which is tied to a line which emerges from the front of the mast just above the

forestay

(8) Dress the spinnaker halyard down the mast in the manner described

below

Warning:-

The spreader settings recommended are safe general purpose

settings. Most people should not find it necessary to deviate substantialy from

these positions. We have deliberately left the spreaders adjustable in the

RS200 to enhance its potential as a racing boat and broaden the range of

competitive sailors. Extreme settings, especially a reduction in the distance

from the shrouds to the back of the mast, may lead to mast failure in strong

winds.

Stepping the mast

Before stepping the mast

(1) Check the surroundings for electrical power lines! On no account

attempt to step the mast near electrical power lines or if there are any lines

between you and the sailing water!

(2) Check, all sheaves and pulleys rotate freely

(3) Check the shrouds, forestay and halyards for damage or chafe, the

spreaders for alignment and that the spinnaker halyard and Tweeker line

move easily.

(4) Fit any racing flag or wind direction indicator to the mast head.

It will help if the boat and launching trolley are off the road trailer base when

stepping and unstepping the mast as this keeps theboat as low as possible.

Stepping the mast

(1) Check the shrouds and forestay are free and ready to attach and that

the mast step in the boat is clear of ropes and obstructions, the kicking strap

rig tension and cunningham controls should all be aft of the step

(2) Rotate the mast to the upright position whilst standing beside the boat

adjacent to the mast step.

(3) Try to ensure that the tenon at the base of the mast remains free of

sand, grit or stones.

(4) Lift the mast into position. If you are uncertain or there are strong winds

it will be helpful if one crew member stands in the boat just behind the mast

step. Be careful to keep forward of the launching trolley wheels when in the

boat.

(5) Ensure that the tenon is fully located, both in the step and between the

two bolts. It should be a snug fit, any rotational play reduces the

efficiency of the spreaders to control mast bend.

(6) One crew member remains holding the mast.

(7) The other crew member can then attach the shrouds.

For a first setting locatethe shrouds 5 holes down on the longer range of

adjusters.

(8) Secure the forestay to the large eye bolt at the bow using at least 3

turns of the lanyard and finally finishing off with 3 or 4 half hitches.

(9) Do not over tension the forestay, a light tension sufficient to prevent the

mast moving around excessively is sufficient.

It is desirable that the forestay has some considerable slack in it once the jib

is hoisted and tensioned. The windward performance of you RS 200 may be

adversely affected if the forestay becomes tight whilst sailing!

(10) Once the mast is stepped and secured tape all the rigging pins on the

shrouds for extra security.

(11) The clip on the Tweeker line, which exits from starboard side of the

mast just above the gooseneck, should nowbe connected to a similar metal

clip to be found near the inboard end of the spinnaker Sprit.

The RS 200 mast is fairly light, most people will have little difficulty simply

lifting the mast into place in the mast step as described. If you are short

handed, however, it is possible to step the mast with the shrouds already

attached.

Warning:-

The forestay on the RS 200 is intended solely to support the mast

when ashore without sails hoisted. Do not attempt to sail the boat without a

fully hoisted and tensioned jib. Should the jib fall down or lose tension for any

reason return to shore as quickly as possible sheeting the mainsail only

lightly.

Normally, before lowering the mast:-

(1) Un-reave the spinnaker halyard tail right back to the exit slot in the

mast.

(2) Make a large bowline in the fall of the halyard.

(3) Pass the whole of the tail of the halyard through the loop of the

bowline.

(4) Keep hold of the bitter end of the halyard tail

(5) Pull on the halyard where it exits from the mast slot, hoisting the

bowline up the mast taking a loop of the tail with it.

(6) When the halyard has got to the end of its travel the end can now be

secured at the exit slot with a couple of half hitches.

(7) Any remainder can be wrapped around the mast or used to secure the

shrouds etc.

This method of securing the spinnaker halyard when de-rigging has the

advantages of keeping everything tidy when lowering or stepping the mast.

More importantly it does not require a lot of winding or coiling which helps to

keep the halyard twist and kink free when sailing.

The Sprit is fully rigged and set at the factory but you should see the sections

below, on operating and rigging the Sprit for details of operation.

Reaving the spinnaker halyard

If you have dressed the spinnaker halyard on the mast as recommended

above:-

(1) Untie the hitches and pull the halyard down.

(2) Keep the bowline on the end of the halyard and hook it over a handle

of the launching trolley. This is a precaution to ensure the halyard is not

inadvertently pulled up the mast, or worse still, pulled through the top sheave.

(3) Feed the tail of the halyard directly from the exit slot forward through

the outer (unsprung) pulley at the aft end of the sprit tube.

(4) Pass it around the single block attached to the pole launch line,

situated toward the front of the tube.

(5) Pass it back through the fairlead and cleat at the inboard end of the

sprit tube.

(6) Lead the halyard tail, which is now the downhaul line, via the block

fitted close to the port forward end of thecentreboard slot and directly back to

the turning block at the aft end of the spinnaker sock.

(7) When you attach the spinnaker (see:-Rigging the spinnaker), this line

must be fed through the spinnaker sock to the chute mouth and tied to the

downhaul patch on the spinnaker. A sail batten or stiff wire will help with this

on the first occasion.

(8) Remember to pull the end of the spinnaker sheet or some other rope

back through the sock when you subsequently de-rig in order to facilitate this

action in future.

Hoisting the Jib

When using a brand new jib for the first time carefully unroll it in a clean area

and hold it out by the three corners:-

(1) Ensure that the eye in the luff wire at the head is correctly aligned with

the attaching tape.

(2) Now whilst applying firm tension to the luff wire make a small lashing at

the tack between the eyelet in the sail and the eye in the luff wire ensuring

these are correctly aligned. (You cannot do this with the jib rolled as this twists

the wire relative to the sail.)

(3) Leave the lashing quite slack at this stage you can adjust the tension

once the sail is hoisted and the luff wire correctly tensioned.

(4) Attach the jib sheets, knotting the sheet rope at its centre through the

clew cringle.

(5) At the boat, shacklethe tack to the same eye bolt as the forestay

ensuring the eye in the luff wire and the sail lashing are correctly aligned fore

and aft without any twists.

(6) Shackle the jib halyard to the head of the jib, ensuring the jib or halyard

are not twisted.

(7) Tape these two areas generously to prevent snagging the spinnaker.

(8) Hoist the sail by pulling on the jib halyard tail, which exits from a slot

just beneath the gooseneck

(9) Hook the loop of wire which emerges onto the jib halyard tensioning

purchase. It may help to obtain sufficient slack at this point if one crew

member pulls firmly forward on the forestay.

(10) Ensure that the tensioning purchase is not twisted or fouling other

systems (it should be the one closest to the mast).

(11) Pull on some rig tension, a generous heave should be sufficient.

(12) Stow the halyard tail in the halyard bag provided.

(13) Check that the forestay now has plenty of slack in it and that the jib is

not twisting at the head. If it is, it may be necessary to lower the sail and turn

the wire (undoing the temporary lashing) at the tack until the sail lies fairly well

fore and aft.

(14) Adjust the lashing at the tack so that the tension is just sufficient to

remove the wrinkles in the sail cloth (it may be necessary to redo these

adjustments after one or two sails as the jib and luff wire settle down).

(15) Finally pass the jib sheets through the jib fairleads andfinish off with a

figure of eight knot in the usual manner.

(16) If conditions permit cleat the jib to save it flapping and remember never

leave any sails especially the jib and spinnaker flapping unnecessarily as this

considerably shortens the life of the sail.

Rigging the spinnaker

If conditions allow, it is simplest to rig the spinnaker with it partly hoisted and

whilst the jib is up.

(1) Identify the three corners of the sail, the tack is close to the sailmakers

mark and should be attached to the tack line which is permanently fixed to the

end of the Sprit, tie this on with a bowline.

(2) Next attach the halyard to the head of the spinnaker (the corner with

the narrowest angle), first checking that it is clear of the jib halyard and

forestay.

(3) Partially hoist the spinnaker and with the slack thus gained in the

halyard/downhaul pull it out of the chute mouth and attach it to the downhaul

patch on the spinnaker. Remember this line should go directly from the chute

mouth to the spinnaker if the spinnaker is lying on the port side or around in

front of the jib luff if the spinnaker is to starboard, it shouldnotpass inside the

jib luff in order to reach the spinnaker.

(4) The spinnaker sheets should be fed under the kicking strap and boom

but over the jib sheets and spinnaker halyard, passing directly across the boat

between the ratchet blocks attached at each shroud anchorage. Take care to

ensure that they are threaded the correct way through these ratchet blocks

(the arrows indicate the direction of sheeting in, i.e. they should point into the

boat). You can check this by holding the sheet on either side of the block and

applying some load to engage the ratchet whilst moving the sheet back and

forth.

(5) Take the ends of the spinnaker sheets and bring them together at the

jib luff ensuring that they pass outside everything to do with the jib and

forestay andinside everything to do with the spinnaker.

(6) Take both sheets to the spinnaker clew (the corner with the greatest

angle.....the only one left!) ensuring one sheet passes around the jib luff and

tie them securely making sure they are inside the downhaul. Keep these

knots neat and tape the ends to avoid snagging the downhaul and jib luff

when dropping the spinnaker. A tip is to tie one slightly large bowline to the

clew spinnaker. A tip is to tie one slightly large bowline to the clew cringle and

tie the secondsheet to the loop of that bowline to prevent a large bunch right

at the clew.

(7) Finally if conditions permit try the sail on either gybe to ensure

everything is rigged correctly and lower the sail pulling gently on the downhaul

and carefully feeding the sail into the chute making sure it does not snag on

the launching trolley handles etc.

(8) Tape everything which may snag a wayward spinnaker.

(9) Whether it was possible to check that the spinnaker was rigged

properly whilst ashore or not; it is good racing practice to make a habit of

hoisting the spinnaker and trying a gybe or two prior to the start of the race

anyway.

Hoisting the mainsail

(1) With a brand new sail carefully unroll the sail in the boat or on a clean

smooth surface and ensure the battens are fully inserted into their protectors

at the luff and securely tied into the sail. It is preferable, initially at least, to tie

the battens in too tightly rather than too loosely. This helps to prevent the

formation of wrinkles emanating from the battens in use. Other than this the

sail is ready to hoist.

(2) Ensure that the boat is as near as possible head to wind. This is

especially important with fully battened sails as point loads at the end of the

batten tend to accelerate the wear on the luff tape if care is not taken when

hoisting and lowering the sail. The use of candle wax or silicon spray in the

luff groove from time to time is highly recommended, this will certainly ease

hoisting and prolong the life of your sail.

(3) Do not attach the boom.

(4) Tie a permanent overhand knot in the end of the halyard for security.

(5) After checking that the halyard is clear attach it to the head of the

mainsail by tying another overhand knot through the eye in the headboard. A

bowline is not recommended as it wastes distance at the mast head, it is also

a weak knot especially when tied in Kevlar.

(6) The exit for the main halyard is positioned on the port side of the mast,

when hoisting try to avoid letting the halyard run through the Clamcleat. Hoist

the sailtaking care to feed the sail carefully into the metal feeder on the luff

grove. You will notice that this becomes a little harder just after each batten as

the tension in the sail cloth tries to force the bend into the batten. You will help

this situationby holding the luff rope just below the feeder and pulling it

forward of the sail track, this will force bend into the batten and take the load

off the sail where it enters the feeder.

(7) Do not force the sail into the feeder, if it catches ease the sail down a

little and then start again using the technique described above.

(8) When fully hoisted slip the halyard into the Clamcleat and stow the

halyard tail in the stowage bag beneath.

(9) Secure the tack around the mast using the webbing and buckle

provided.

(10) Ensure that the cunningham eye purchase is untwisted and connect

this by passing the knotted end of the single line through the higher cringle in

the sail and locating the knot into the short length of sail track available above

the jib exit slot immediately under the gooseneck.

(11) Pull fairly hard on the cunningham control and release, now pull hard

on the main halyard once again and re-cleat, this helps remove stretch in the

halyard.

Rigging the boom and mainsheet

(1) Check and adjust if necessary the position of the sliding eye

attachments for the central mainsheet block and kicking strap, ensuring that

the latter is very firmly screwed home. These may be adjusted to suit your

personal preferences however the following positions are recommended as a

guide:-mainsheet at 1030 mm and kicker at 380mm, measured from the

inboard end of the boom to the centre of the eye.

(2) After sailing your RS 200 in a variety of conditions, and you are

satisfied these positions are correct, a small hole drilled in the underside of

the boom track where the slider screw locates will ensure these fittings do not

slip under load.

(3) Attach the kicking strap purchase to the eye on the boom ensuring it

runs freely and is clear of twists.

(4) Reave the mainsheet. Tie a figure of eight knot in one end of the

mainsheet then pass the other end through the fairlead on top of the

swivelling mainsheet cleat, through the ratchet block in the opposite direction

to the indicating arrow and up to the central block on the boom. From here

feed the mainsheet through he slot in the underside of the boom until it

emerges at the outboard end, thence through the block at the end of the

boom. Finally pass it through the loop in the centre of the aft bridle and tie a

simple overhand knot to prevent it pulling back through.

(5) You may wish to tie a further fig.8 knot in the helmsman’s end of the

mainsheet, positioned so that the boom will not hit the shroud with the

mainsheet released. this saves wear and tear on the boom and mainsail and

could prevent a broken boom or mast in the event of a capsize in strong

winds.

(6) If not already supplied by your dealer you are recommended to fit a

gybing rope as follows:-tie one end of a piece of rope approx. 900mm long to

the centre boom eye and make a bowline in the other so that the loop

encircles but does not restrict the fall of the mainsheet. This rope enables the

helmsman to pull the boom over positively in a gybe rather than pulling on the

mainsheet.

(7) Normally the mainsheet and kicking strap may be left permanently

attached to the boom for ease of use.

Fitting the rudder

(1) Fit the tiller extension to the end of the tiller, the flexible joint on the

extension locates in the fitting provided on the tiller and is locked in place by

rotating the cover plate.

(2) The tiller extension, as supplied, is certainly long enough for most

tastes. If you find the extension on the long side it is perfectly acceptable to

trim it to length by cutting off the outboard end.

(3) Ensure the extension is properly located then wrap tape around the

cover plate and tiller as a precaution against accidental release.

(4) Ensure the down haul line is released and fully raise the rudder blade

in the stock.

(5) Adjust the wing nut pressure so that the friction will safely hold the

blade up.

(6) Pass the tiller and extension under the mainsheet bridle and slide the

rudder assembly onto the transom fittings.

(7) Check that the rudder retaining clip engages correctly over the lower

gudgeon.

(8) Immediately prior to launching ensure the tiller extension is clear of the

mainsheet

Attaching the boom

As the boom can be readily attached whilst the mainsail is hoisted, you will

find most owners do not attach the boom until they are just ready to launch

and soon release the clew on coming ashore. You will find this makes the sail

a lot more manageable and removes the potential danger from an

uncontrolled boom.

When ready to launch you should attach the boom to the mast and sail as

follows:-

(1) Release the outhaul line near the inboard end of the boom so there is

about 500mm of line available at the outboard end.

(2) Slip the inboard end of the boom onto the gooseneck.

(3) From the aft end of the boat maintaining slight forward pressure so that

the boom does not fall off the gooseneck, lift the outboard end of the boom to

the clew of the mainsail.

(4) Engage the clew slider into the slot on the top of the boom and pull aft.

(5) Thread the outhaul line through the clew cringle and locate the knotted

end in the ‘V’ notch at the end of the boom.

(6) Tension the outhaul to the desired setting. A setting allowing about

50mm draught in the foot of the sail will make a good starting point.

Adjusting the centreplate friction

The friction pad which holds the centreboard in position is pre-set at the

factory after a few sails it may be necessary to adjust this setting:-

(1) Whilst the boat is on the launching trolley and trailer base raise the bow

of the boat as far as it will go.

(2) Armed with a good “Posidrive” screwdriver and ashort piece of wood

or plastic approx. 25 x 5 mm in section get under the boat near the forward

end of the centreboard slot gasket.

(3) Insert the piece of wood through the slot in the gasket and rotate it to

spread the gasket.

(4) The two screws locatingand compressing the centreplate friction pad

should be readily visible

(5) Adjust the friction pad as desired screwing in to increase centreplate

friction.

Tabla de contenidos

Otros manuales de Bote de LDC Racing Sailboats

LDC Racing Sailboats

LDC Racing Sailboats RS600 Manual de usuario

LDC Racing Sailboats

LDC Racing Sailboats RS400 Guía de inicio rápido

LDC Racing Sailboats

LDC Racing Sailboats RS800 Manual de usuario

Manuales populares de Bote de otras marcas

Raymarine

Raymarine ST70 Instrument Manual de usuario

Pro-Line Boats

Pro-Line Boats Pro Line 19 Sport Manual de usuario

Jeanneau

Jeanneau CAP CAMARAT 8.5 CC Manual de usuario

Tiara Yachts

Tiara Yachts C49 2024 Manual de usuario

Monterey Boats

Monterey Boats Sport Yacht 330 Manual de usuario

J 105 Manual de usuario

PURSUIT

PURSUIT OS 335 Manual de usuario

Boston Whaler

Boston Whaler CONQUEST 345 Manual de usuario

Jeanneau

Jeanneau SUN ODYSSEY 41 DS Manual de usuario

Meridian

Meridian 490 Pilothouse Manual de usuario

Advanced Elements

Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame Expedition AE1009 Manual de usuario

Robo Marine Indonesia

Robo Marine Indonesia GEOMAR Manual de usuario

Swallow Boats

Swallow Boats BayRaider Manual de usuario

Intex

Intex Excursion 5 Set Manual de usuario

X SHORE

X SHORE EELEX 8000 Manual de usuario

ISLAND PACKET

ISLAND PACKET 370 Manual de usuario

Sea Ray

Sea Ray 175 Sport Manual de usuario

Regal

Regal 2300 Manual de usuario