GREAT PLANES Sportster Bipe 40 Manual de usuario

Sportster

Bipe

Instruction Manual

Engine size

.35-.45

Wingspan 45 1/2"

Length 41 1/2"

Wing Area

716 sq

in.

Weight

5-61/2

Ibs.

Materials Needed to Complete

the

Sportster:

Channel radio Propeller Fuel tank

Engine Wheel collars Spinner

Fiberglass cloth/resin Wheels Covering

Engine mounting bolts Hinges Instant glue

Pushrods/clevises Wing bolts EPOXY

The Sportster Bipe

was designed for sport flying. This biplane design with symmetrical wings pro

vides full aerobatic maneuverability, yet has enough wing area for docile low speed capability.

The parts are machine cut and sanded for accurate fit. Should you notice a difference in size between

plans and parts, it is usually because paper changes size with moisture.

Different types of glue may be used such

epoxy, cyanoacrylate(instant glue) and aliphatic resin (white

glue). Build on a flat surface for straight wings and fuselage.

Please read through this step

step instruction manual before you start building

you will have an

overall idea of the construction steps and to avoid mistakes. Use the plan and parts list to identify the var

ious parts.

WAR

This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious

bodily harm and property damage.

YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS

ALONE

to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying

gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and fly

only

with experi

enced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards and common

sense as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.

is sug

gested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before you attempt to

fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR

LOCAL HOBBY SHOP

WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

1810 Samuel Morse Dr.

Reston, VA 22090

BOX

788

URBANA

lLLlNOlS61801

2171367

2069

BUILDING THE TAIL

SECTION

PREPARE THE FIN AND RUDDER

Sandthe forward and rear sectionsof the fin

neces

sary for a good fit. Working over the plans, glue the fin section

pieces together. Sand both sides of the rudder.

CUT THE HINGE SLOTS IN THE FIN AND RUD

DER; CUT OUT RUDDER FOR JOINER CLEAR

ANCE

Draw centerlines down the trailing edge of the fin

and the leading edge of the rudder. Mark and cut the hinge

slots. Two hinges are used above the stabilizer. The third hinge

should be just below the stab and above the tail wheel strut

tab. Cut out part of the rudder leading edge for elevator joiner

wire clearance. Wait to shape the leading edge until the hole

is drilled for the tail wheel tiller arm later.

GLUE STAB PARTSTOGETHER; SAND THE STAB

AND ELEVATORS

Check the fit and sand the forward and rer parts of

the stab

they fit together well. Glue them together. Sand both

sides of the stab and elevator halves.

DRILL HOLES IN THE ELEVATOR HALVES FOR

ELEVATOR JOINER WIRE

Draw a front to back centerline down the top side of

the stab and a centerlinedown the leadingedges of the elevator

halves. Mark the center of the elevator joiner wire. Align the

stab, elevator and joiner wire and mark the hole locations for

the joiner wire arms on the centerline of the elevator leading

edge. Drill the holes.

GROOVE OUT THE ELEVATORS

FOR

JOINER

WIRE CLEARANCE

Cut a groove in the elevator leading edge inside of

the hole

when the joiner wire is installed it will be flush with

the leading edge of the elevator.

both elevator halves.

TRIAL FIT THE JOINER WIRE

Temporarily install the elevator joiner wire into the

elevator halves. Check to make sure that this assembly is

aligned properly. Bend the joiner arms

necessary for a perfect

fit.

DO NOT GLUE THE JOINER WIRE

THE ELEVATOR

HALVESUNTILAFTERTHE PIECESARE COVEREDLATER.

CUT HINGE SLOTS FOR THE STAB AND

ELEVATOR

Mark and cut the hingeslots for the stab and elevator

halves as you did with the fin and rudder. See the plans for

locations. Shape the leading edges of the elevator halves to a

V’.

READ THIS FIRST BEFORE YOU START BUILDING THE

WING PANELS: It is very important that you buildstraight wings

with no warps or twists or you will get some flying characteristics

you didn’t expect! Be very carefulwhen you align the ribs, spars,

leading edges, trailing edges and sheeting at the various steps

below. All these parts should be in their correct positions before

you glue them in place. Hold or pin the parts in place, then

glue. Use the following instructions to help you build the wing

straight and warp free.

Remember: Anyone can build a wing. Only

careful builder

can build a straight wing.

BUILDING

THE

TOP

WING

Start the top wing by building two spars from 1/4 x

1/4 x 24 balsa, aleadingedgefrom 1/4 x1/2 x24balsaand

a trailing edge from1/4 x1/4 x 24 balsa. Use waxedpaper

on the plan. Cut the parts, fit them together and then glue

overthe plan. The top wingis built in one piece. You will

build the top wing upside down at first. Use epoxy when

you glue these pieces together in this step.

PREPARE THE RIBS

Draw a rib alignment line down the center of each

top wing rib. Note that the three center ribs have 2 extra notches

for the cabane mounting plate. Draw rib alignment centerlines

down the back of the leading edge and the front of the trailing

edge.

ALIGN AND GLUE RIBS, LEADING EDGE AND

TRAILING EDGE TO TOP SPAR

Pin the top spar (the wing will be built (upside

down) over the waxed paper covered plan. Place the ribs on

the spar. Align the ribs at the positions shown on the plans.

Make sure that the three center ribs have the cabane notches

as shown. Shim up the trailing edges of the ribs with the

extra 1/4 x 1/4

24 spars, making sure the centerlines you

drew on the ribs are parallel to the building board. When the

ribs are aligned correctly, and at 90 degrees to the building

board, glue the ribs

the spar. Line up the lines on the ribs

with the line on the leading edge. Glue the ribs

the leading

edge. Line up the trailing edge line

the rib lines and glue the

ribs

the trailing edge.

GLUE IN SPAR FILLER BRACE, BOTTOM SPAR

AND SHEAR WEB

Cut out the area between the spar notches on the

two end center ribs for the 1/4 x 9/16 balsa spar filler brace.

Glue in the 1/4 x 9/16 filler brace pieces from the center rib out

past the spar scarf joint on both sides of the center rib. Glue

in the bottom spar. Now cut shear web pieces from 3/32 x 3

24 balsa to fit between the spars at the rib bays shown on the

plan. The wing should still be shimmed up with the extra spars

throughout the building process. Use epoxy in this step.

ADD THE CABANE HOLDERS

Glue in the two plywood 1/4 x 1/2

6 1/2 cabane

wire holders with epoxy into the slots in the htree center ribs.

Make sure the cabane holders are flush with the top edges of

the ribs.

ADD THE SHEETING AND CAP STRIPS

Cut the sheeting to fit first then glue in place. Glue

on the 1/16

2-1/8

24 leading edge sheeting, the 1/16

7/8

24 trailing edge sheeting and the 1/16

15 center section

sheeting. Do not glue the sheeting

the cabane holders as

you will cut away this sheeting later. Cut cap strips from 1/16

3/16

36 balsa and glue them in place over the rib edges.

ADD 1/4 TRI STOCK BRACES

After the glue is dry, turn the wing over and pin it

down

the building board. Use 1/4

36 triangle stock and cut

pieces

fit along the length of the cabane holders as shown

on the plan. Glue this 1/4 tri

the sheeting and

the cabane

holder. Also cut tri stock

fit

either side of the three center

ribs on top

the cabane holders. Glue these braces in place.

ADDTHE REST OFTHE SHEETING

Glue on the1/16

2-1/8

24leading edge sheeting,

the1/16

7/8

24trailingedge sheeting and the 1/16

center section sheeting. Glue onthe1/16

3/16cap strips.

ADDTHETRAILINGEDGE

Addthetapered3/8

24balsatrailing edgestock

andthe3/8

6taperedcentertrailingedgepiece.Cutparts

fit first and then glue them in place. Now cut the curve in the

center trailing edge as shown on the plan and in the photo.

BUILDING

THE

BOTTOM

WING

PREPARE WING RIBS

Mark all bottomwing ribs with a rib alignment center-

line. Also draw centerlines down the 1/4

1/2

24 leading edge

and the 1/4

1/2

24 trailing edge pieces. There is no top or

bottom to the bottom wing at this point.

GLUE THE RIBS TO THE SPAR

Build the right and left wing panels separately. Build

the left panel first. Use the extra spar as a shim at the trailing

edge as you did with the tio wing. Pin the bottom spar over the

plans. Align the ribs to the spar, shim up the trailing edges of

the ribs and glue the ribs

the spar. Use the 1/4

7/8

wing

hold down block as a spacer for location of ribs #1 and #2.

(Note: These hold downs are the same size as the ones that

glue into the fuselage later.) Do not glue the hold down block

in place yet.

ADD LEADING EDGE, TRAILING EDGE, TOP

SPAR, HOLD DOWN AND FILLER

Align the above parts first and then glue in place

(leading edge, trailing edge and top spar). Use epoxy to glue

the hold down in place. Glue the balsa 1/4

x 5/8 x

filler above

the hold down and sand the it

the shape

the rib contour.

ADD THE SHEETING

Glue on the 1/16

2-118

leading edge sheeting, the 1/16

x 7/8 x

24 trailing

edge sheeting and the 1/16 x 3

15 center section

sheeting. Cut cap strips from 1/16

3/16

36 balsa

and glue them in place.

ADDTHE SHEETINGAND FILLER ONTHEOTHER

SIDE

THE WING PANEL

When the glue is dry, turn the wing panel over, realign

it to the board and glue in the balsa filler on the other side of

the hold down. Sand it to shape. Add the leading edge sheeting,

the trailing edge sheeting and the center section sheeting.Add

the cap strips. This completes the left wing panel for now. Re

move the panel from the building board when it is dry. Now

build the right wing panel by following steps 1 through

INSTALLING THE WING TIPS

GLUE THE WING TIPS TO TOP AND BOTTOM

WING PANELS

Cut

off

the sheeting and spars even with the tip rib.

Do not cut

off

the leading edge! Glue the wing tips on both the

top and bottom wingslpanels. The tips should be centered on

the tip rib and the leading edge centerline. The wing tips for

the top wing will have to sanded to an angle at the top to fit

against the leading edge. Cut the tip brace pieces from the 114

scrap provided (1/4

7/8). Add the filler piece at the

lower end of the wing tips, top and bottom. Sand this filler to

shape later after hinging and installing the ailerons. Sand the

leading edge to the rounded shape shown on the plans. Cut

off

the spars and sheetingeven with the root rib on the panels.

Cut

the inner tip filler from some scrap balsa and add to

the inside

the tip. Shape

match the ailerons and

tip filler blocks.

INSTALLING THE CENTER

TRAILING EDGE (BOTTOM WING)

MAKE CENTER SECTlON/TORQUE ROD AS

SEMBLIES

Draw a centerline down the trailing edges of the wing

panels and down the leading edges of the center sections. Cut

a groove along the centerline in the tapered

5/8

3/4

1/2

balsa center section pieces for the aileron torque rods. Notch

the center sections for backward torque rod arm movement.

Glue the brass sleeves of the torque rods into the blocks with

epoxy. Make right and left assemblies. Also notch the trailing

edge of the wing panelfor forward movementof the torque arms.

GLUE THE CENTER SECTIONS TO THE WING

PANELS

Use vaseline at the ends of the tube of the torque

rod

you don't glue the wire to the wing. The rod must be free

to move. Glue the rod/center sections to the wing panels up

the centerlines.

JOINING

THE

BOTTOM

WING PANELS

GLUE THE CENTER RIB TO THE LEFT WING

With the wing panels

, glue the wedge

shaped

balsa center rib

the root end of the left wing panel. Make

sure the wider edge of the center rib is down and that the

leading edge and trailing edge are centered on the tapered rib.

Use

minute epoxy.

PANEL

SAND THE CENTER RIB TO THE WING PANEL

CONTOUR

Rough cut the center rib to the wing airfoil, leaving

it about

1/8"

oversize. Sand the remainder away with a sanding

block

that the center ribedges areflush with the wing sheeting

surfaces.

JOINTHEWING PANELS; ADDTHEWING PLATES

Join the wing panels upsidedown. Line up the lead-

ing and trailing edges of the panels. Use a straight edge to

make sure the leading edge of the wing is straight. Block up

the wing

7/8"

at the center and glue the panels together using

slow set epoxy. See the drawing on the plan. Remember the

wing is upside down

this point! When the glue is dry, turn

the wing over and mark the aileron servo well location. Add the

1/16

1/4

plywoodwing plateto the bottomof the wing.

GLASS THE CENTER SECTION OF THE WING

NOT OMIT

THIS

STEP!

Doing

may result in a wing failure during flight!

Coat the

area

where the wings were joined with

minuteepoxy and use

wide strip

oz.

glass ornylon

cloth to reinforce the centerjoint. Saturate the cloth with

epoxy and then wipe

off

any extra epoxy. The cloth strip

shouldcover both the top and the bottom

the wingjoint.

When the epoxy is

dry,

sand the center section lightly

without sandinginto the glass cloth.

PREPARE THE AILERONS

Cut the aileron stock

(5/8 x

17-1/2 tapered stock) to

length and draw a centerline down the leading edge of the

ailerons. Mark and drill the torque rod holes. Groove the aileron

for torque rod clearance. Make right and left ailerons.

CUTTHE HINGE SLOTS; FINAL SAND THE AILE-

RONS

Mark and cut the hinge slots into the ailerons and

the wing trailing edge. Shape the leading edge

the ailerons

to a

“V’.

Temporarily install the ailerons with hinges to check

the fit. Final sand the wing tips to match the aileron contour at

neutral. Do not permanently hinge the ailerons until after they

are covered.

BUILDING

THE

FUSELAGE

PREPARE THE FUSELAGE SIDES

Mark the inside of the fuselage sides “right” and

“left”. Cut out part of the wing saddle area at the rear as shown

on the plan.

STOP!

you plan to install a 4

cycle engine, read and follow

the instructions on installation of 4

cycle engines at the end of

this instruction book.

LEFT

PREPARE THE BULKHEADS

Locate the 1/4

x 3

x 2-3/4

plywood Bulkhead

#1,

the

Firewall. Mark the “top” of the firewall (the bottom has a slight

angle). Mark the position of the motor mount. Mark and drill the

holes for the motor mount

screws. Put the 4

40 blind nuts

in positions in these holes you drilled. Temporarily place the

mount on the firewall with the screws. Cut the screws

off

back of the firewall

they won’t get in the way

the fuel tank.

Notch a hole in Bulkhead #2 for the throttle linkage. Prepare

Bulkhead #3 by drilling holes for the outer pushrod housings.

3.DGLUETHEDOUBLERSTO

THE

FUSELAGESIDES

UsingBulkhead #1 as a spacer, install the 1/8" balsa

doublers crossgrain onthe inside of the fuselage sides. Cut the

doubler pieces from 1/8 x 3 x 36 balsa first, position andthen

glue inplace. Use slow set epoxy or thick cyanoacrylate. The

doubler should extend 1/4"beyond the position of bulkhead #3.

Trimthe doublers to the fuselage contour.

Note:

Becareful

when

you

cut the

doubler

stock

as you

need

to usewhat isleft inthe next step.

4.D BUILDTHETHREE REAR FORMERS

Make Formers #4,5 and 6 from 1/8x 1/4x 36balsa.

Usethe plans as a guide andcut the balsa to size. Glue the

parts together to make the three formers. Make push rod braces

from scrap 1/8x 3 x 36 left over fromthe doubler stock inthe

step you just did.The widths of the braces are the same as

that of each of the formers. The braces will beinstalled when

the pushrods are installed

later.STOP!

Did you read the4-cycle

engineinstructions ifyou planto install a 4-cycle?

DMARK BULKHEAD POSITIONS

Mark the positions of bulkheads #2 and #3 onthe

fuselagesides.Also

mark

the

position

thebalsadashbetween

#2 and#3. Markthe positions of the cabane blocks now ifyou

wish.

6.D DRILL PUSHROD EXIT HOLES

Markanddrill the holes inthe fuselage sides for the

pushrodexits for the elevator and rudder.See the plans for

suggested positions of the pushrods to estimate the hole posi-

tions. A piece of brass tubing sharpened on the inside with an

X-Acto knife blade makes a neat,clean angled hole for tube-

style pushrods.

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