Fei Bau F 15-Eagle Manual de usuario
Fei Bau 1/6th scale F 15-Eagle
Developed and written by Luke Cullen
The following instructions are developed based on using twin turbines. The ARF
kit can be optioned from the factory for either twin or single turbine. This kit
included mounts for 2 engines, 2 thrust tubes and tanks with the capacity for 2
turbines. The build for the single engine is similar so the twin version will give you
the general idea for your single engine build. Think of the build as working from
the back to the front which makes it seem easier. Every step focuses on easy
maintenance when the need arises.
ISCLAIMER:
THIS IS NOT A TOY; it’s a high performance model capable of high speeds and
damage to persons and or property if not used responsibly. The manufacturer
and its distributors cannot control how you assemble this model, what type of
equipment you use, or how you fly it. FB can assume no liability whatsoever for
any damages that may occur when you fly your aircraft. By assembling this
model, you are agreeing to indemnify and hold blameless the manufacturer and/or
his agents from any and all torts and liability associated with the use of this
product. Please inspect all parts before beginning assembly. If any parts appear
to be missing or suspect, contact your dealer or the manufacturer for repair or
replacement BEFORE you begin. Once you have assembled the aircraft, you are
the pilot in command and assume any and all responsibility for the use of the
model and any damages that might occur by flying or attempting to fly this
aircraft. R/C model jets require a high level of skill in both their assembly and their
flying. If you do not feel confident in either your building or flying skills, PLEASE
seek assistance from more experienced modellers. It is advisable no matter what
level of skills you have to have a second experienced modeller go over your
installation after assembly. This is advisable during the build to use the inspector
who will do the final turbine inspection. A second set of eyes may spot a problem
you have missed. If you have not flown a model like this before, it is HIGHLY
recommended that you get an experienced turbine pilot to do your maiden flight.
Very often, the first few seconds of a maiden flight are critical until the aircraft is
trimmed out, and having an experienced pilot at the controls can make the
difference between a wrecked aircraft and once that enjoys many hundreds of
flights. Be sure to select a suitable open field for flying...take the time to find a
large paved runway if at all possible, especially for test flights, until you feel
comfortable getting the aircraft in and out of smaller grass fields.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
Keep this in mind as you proceed:
Look at EVERY assembly step you finish, double check what’s done and make
sure it’s correct. Even the smallest component is important and can cause the
loss of your airplane, so take the time to do things accurately. Correct problems if
they are wrong. Careful work will result in a long-lasting plane that gives you
years of pleasure, one loose component could result in the complete loss of the
aircraft and all the components inside it, and someone can even get hurt.
Use quality digital servos and alloy servo arms to increase strength and
durability. Also this decreases the chances of slop in surfaces which is important
to avoid flutter with such a fast model.
The FB F15-E as it comes from the factory includes the following parts:
Accessories included:
Accessories included:Accessories included:
Accessories included:
2 x Stainless steel double walled thrust tubes
2 x wooden engine mount spacers for Jet cat engines
2 x large 2.7 litre fuel tanks with plumbing hardware
1 x large 4.6 litre fuel tank with all plumbing hardware
3 x coils of coloured plastic airline
1 x brake valve
1 x retract valve
1 x bag of air Y connectors
1 x bag of 4 way air connectors
1 x bag of fuel Y connectors
1 x bag of fuel plugs
8 x servo linkages
2 x small air tanks
2 x large air tanks
1 x bag of servo mounts and hardware
1 bag of steering cable parts including wire and crimps
Multiple named bags with socket headed mounting bolts
Airframe parts included
Fuselage section
Nose section
2 x detailed cockpit
2 x rudders
2 x elevators
2 wing panels
Plywood formers and trays
Ordinance for the wings and fuselage
Control horns
Servos used in this build
Ailerons x 2 Spektrum 6030 20kg
Flaps x 2 JR 8911 24 kg
Rudders x 2 Spektrum 6030 20kg
Elevators x 2 JR 8911 24kg
Steering x 1 JR 8231
I have used SWB alloy arms for all of the flying surfaces to increase the integrity
of all the controls. They are 25mm arms which is ample for the amount of
movement you need.
I have tried to arrange a construction sequence that will allow you to keep moving
forward, rather than standing around waiting for glue to dry before you can
proceed to the next steps
Introduction:
You have chosen a model that represents the pinnacle of ARF technology. While
there is not a lot of building to do, there is enough to keep you busy for a many
hours. Even if you have assembled other ARF jets, we highly recommend
following our assembly sequence and procedures anyway. Chances are it will
save you a lot of time, prevent you from running down dead ends, and perhaps
remind you of a few small things that might end up saving your aircraft.
Just because the model is almost completely built does not mean you can rush
through the assembly. You need to employ fine craftsmanship every step of the
way, turbine models need critical care and attention.
Keep this in mind with everything you do, every part you install...look at the work
you just did, evaluate it critically, and ask yourself "is this going to potentially
crash my airplane?" If there is any doubt about the work you have done, back up,
and re-do it properly.
Adhesives: The correct adhesive to use for all procedures is Loctite Hysol 9462.
This is a very strong white epoxy that is thixotropic. "Thixotropic" means it does
not run at all, but stays only where you put it. It is infinitely superior to regular
epoxy, even slow-setting epoxy, for our purposes, because of this characteristic.
Regular epoxy will run downhill with gravity as it dries, taking it away from where
it is intended to be.
A good example is in the hinges...using regular epoxy, a good portion of the glue
will migrate down away from the hinge into the inside of the wing as it dries, and
you won't even know it is happening. Hysol stays where you put it. The downside
of Hysol is it takes overnight to dry properly, but I have tried to arrange things to
keep you busy while waiting for glue to dry. I also highly recommend that you only
use a proper Hysol dispensing gun with the long-type mixing nozzles.
The short nozzles do not mix this glue enough and only a thin nozzle and gun will
let you fill the hinge and control horn holes properly with glue, you can't do it
mixing your Hysol on a flat surface and trying to get the glue in the proper place
by a brush or stick.
You can buy a complete Hysol setup including a mixing gun, nozzles and
cartridges of glue from your local hobby supplier. Consider it a great investment,
the glue is the best you will use. Two cartridges will be plenty to assemble your F-
15E
AIR SYSTEMS:
The F-15E uses pneumatic brakes and retracts so follow the steps and you should
have very reliable leak-free operation. Neatness counts so
all airlines should be secured to the airframe to keep them from flopping around
or getting kinked. I used plastic clips to keep all the wiring and airlines both neat
and away from heat. The other very important thing is to cut off the end of each
airline dead square before
installing it on the nipple. This is VITAL. You can either purchase a professional
tubing cutter from your dealer Intairco or similar, or you can make up a jig to hold
the airline and keep a sharp, new razor blade perfectly upright as you cut. Either
one works, just ensure that all ends of all airlines are cut off dead square. Make
sure all airlines are pushed ALL THE WAY onto their nipples.
They should not need to be secured otherwise, but you can add fine wire safety
wraps if you like. Make sure all left and right matching airlines are the same
length, particularly the brake lines, or you will get uneven retraction or braking
action. It's worth taking the time to get everything pneumatic right the first time,
as having your landing gear fail to retract is not that bad, however having it fail to
deploy can really ruin your day and the paint on the bottom of your model.
FUEL SYSTEM:
The F-15E has a very simple fuel system, 2 x 2.7 litre tanks in the ducting area and
a 4.6 litre main tank that fits in front of the main ducting. There is heaps of room
for a UAT or similar header tank. There is not much to go wrong, but like the
pneumatic system it does need to be done right the first time, with some careful
craftsmanship.
As with the airlines, all fuel lines must be cut off square. I have used all Festo
fittings for all fuel lines or tie wire where Festo fittings are not available. The
UAT’s I have used are from INTAIRCO and provide all Festo fittings. Everything
needs to be dead clean including the inside of all the fuel tanks.
Rudders
RuddersRudders
Rudders:
::
:
1. Remove the screws holding the servo covers from the rudder servo bay. Keep
the orientation of the servo cover correct, do not flip or rotate the servo
covers, as there may be slight variations in the screw holes and they may not
fit perfectly if you rotate the covers.
2. Mount the plastic brackets as indicated then mount the servos to the brackets.
3. o not over tighten and strip the screws. o not use any grommets or other
servo hardware. Vibration isn’t a problem for jets which is why you don’t need
to use the rubber grommets. Secure the screws with Loctite
4. Check the depth of the servo mount with the servo. Relieve if needed with a
sharp exacto knife.
5. Feed the wires for the servo to the hole provided that goes through the
fuselage.
6. Rough up the rudder horns and check the depth where they sit on the rudder.
Check the positioning as the hole in the horn should be directly over the hinge
point.
7. Hysol the control horns to the rudder.
8. Rough up all the hinges with 60grit sandpaper before gluing them into the
surface to ensure a good glue joint.
Hysol tips work well getting glue in the hinge holes.
9. Mount the rudders on the fuselage with the screws already fitted inside the
model.
10. Tighten both rudders after assembly.
Elevators
ElevatorsElevators
Elevators:
::
:
The elevators are an all moving piece with a pre-installed pivot. The servos are
mounted inside the area provided. Some trimming may be required to use an alloy
mount for the servo as I did.
Check the position of the alloy arm to provide clear movement of the servo and
linkage
Loctite the 3mm socket screw to locate the tailplane. Be sure to put the nylon
bushes between the tailplane and fuselage.
Before mounting the servo to the tailplane it needs to be mass balanced. I had to
add 80grams to the leading edge. I used a carbon tube that I filled with lead. I then
capped it with plywood keep the tailplane free and add weight till it holds being
level. This is to make the servo more effective and less chance of flutter.
Hysol the carbon tube in the tailplane for the counterweights..
Wings
WingsWings
Wings:
::
:
The same methods are adopted for the servos and linkages for the ailerons and
flaps. Keep in mind the position of the control horns; they have to be directly over
the hinge line. Make up extension leads for the aileron as they need to be longer.
Where possible I used rubber grommets to protect the servo wiring.
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