Extreme Flight RC YAK-54 Manual de usuario

YAK-54

48” Electric Profile ARF

Congratulations on your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 48 inch profile

Electric ARF. This aircraft was designed to provide maximum performance and fun in a

great looking, lightweight, easily transported, fully aerobatic profile ARF aircraft. Using

a powerful and efficient brushless outrunner motor and speed controller and a single high

discharge 3S or 4S Lithium Polymer battery (2170 - 2500 mah), the 48 inch Yak 54

provides unlimited 3D aerobatic performance. Great care was taken to design a light

weight yet robust airframe. Expert engineering and modern laser cutting methods in

conjunction with a carbon fiber wing tube and composite control horns keep weight to a

minimum. The Yak is quick and easy to assemble and can be ready to fly in a couple of

evenings.

Of course the Yak 54 excels at 3D maneuvers. Incredible yaw, pitch and roll authority

allow the Yak 54 to obey your every stick command. Sport flyers fear not! With reduced

rates the Yak 54 is a very easy plane to fly. Its super light wing loading allows it to land

at a walk. It will instill confidence and allow you to improve your flying skills. When

you’re ready for more advanced aerobatics, flip the dual rate switch and hang on!

As with any high performance aerobatic aircraft, great care must be taken to avoid excess

speed. Excess speed could lead to control surface flutter and quite possibly the complete

destruction of your aircraft. Don’t let this happen to you! Always have the motor at idle

when the airplane is pointed down and reserve full throttle for vertical climbs. Make sure

you have adequate mechanical advantage in your control linkage setup. If you are unsure

about this, have a more experienced flyer look over your set-up before flying. Extreme

Flight RC, Ltd. in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter. As with all of our planes,

we put the Yak 54 through a rigorous flight testing regime and have not experienced any

control surface flutter. It is your responsibility to ensure the airworthiness of your

aircraft.

The 48 inch Yak 54 was designed around the Torque Revolution 2814/820 Brushless

Outrunner motor and Airboss Elite 45 Amp ESC with SBEC. This is the best choice for

powering the Yak, providing plenty of power for any maneuver imaginable. Other

outrunner motors in this class will work as well but may require slight modification to the

motor mount. We also recommend the use of the Hitec HS-65 micro servo for aileron,

rudder and elevator. If you pan on touching the ground with the rudder repeatedly you

may want to upgrade to the metal gear version of the HS-65. Please take a few minutes

to read this manual before beginning assembly to get familiar with the process.

Tips for Success-Please read before beginning assembly!!!

1. Read the instruction manual thoroughly before starting assembly.

2. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship exhibited by the workers

in our factory. However, these are mass produced models. As with any ARF,

take a few minutes to go over the model and add CA to high stress areas or

any joints that appear to need more glue. Specific areas to pay attention to are

servo mounts, wing root rib and motor mount joints. A few minutes and a few drops

of CA will help to insure the longevity of your model.

3. Make sure your prop and spinner are balanced! These aircraft perform as well

as they do because they are built light. Excess vibration caused by unbalanced

components can cause damage to the airframe.

4. Buy a Watt meter! For less than the cost of a single battery pack you can

purchase one of these. This will save you a lot of time, money and frustration

and provide you with a lot of valuable information about your set up. One

battery pack saved is worth this investment!

5. Observe the C rating of your batteries. For example if your battery is rated at

2100 mah and 20C continuous discharge rate then you can safely pull 42000

mah or 42 Amps from it (2100 x 20= 42000 mah=42 Amps). Use a watt

meter between your battery and ESC to determine the number of Amps you

are drawing as well as the number of Watts you are generating. I have found

it is best for battery longevity if your maximum amp draw at wide open

throttle is in between the continuous rating and the burst rating of the battery.

Prop your airplane accordingly.

6. We have done a lot of experimenting with various props. Using the Torque

2814/820, 4S 2170mah Flightpower lipos and APC 12 X 6E prop will provide maximum

performance at or near sea level. Depending on your elevation you may want to

experiment to find what works best for you. Remember to test each new prop with a Watt

meter attached to the system to be sure you are not overworking any of the

components.

7. Decals- clean your airplane with glass cleaner and a paper towel before

starting to apply the decals. Mist the area where the decal will be applied with

glass cleaner or water mixed with a little bit of soap. Use scissors to remove

the decal from the sheet. For best results cut as close to the edges of the decal

as possible. Position the decal in place and use a credit card or rubber

squeegee to push the excess liquid from under the decal and allow to dry.

You may need to secure the edges of the decal with masking tape to prevent

them from rolling up until the solution has dried and evaporated.

Wing assembly

□1. Unwrap wing and disconnect aileron from wing. Align hinges such that they are

centered in the slot and exactly ½ of the hinge is exposed to mate with the wing. Set aside

and do not glue at this time.

□2. Locate the aileron servo hole and cut the covering as desired to reveal the plywood

servo mount. We suggest leaving about 1/16” to 1/8” covering that may be ironed to the

inside of the hole for a cleaner installation. See figure 1.

Figure 1

□3. Trial fit your servo (we recommend the HS65MG or similar for all surfaces) as you

may need to trim for final fit and an extension may be necessary. Once the fit is as

desired, mount the servo with the arm oriented to the aileron (if using a half arm have it

pointing to the wingtip). See figure 2.

□4. Fit the aileron to the wing making sure it is flush at the wingtip, this will allow about

1/16” gap at the root. Deflect the aileron one direction and apply thin CA to the 4 hinges.

Turn the wing over and do the same to the other side of the hinges. Be sure there is no

more than 1/16” gap between the wing and the aileron.

□5. Next locate the hardware bags and find the control horns. There will be four of them,

the ailerons use the larger of the two sets. The aileron has a slot for this horn, it is located

by measuring from the leading edge of the aileron root (closest to fuselage) outward

toward the tip 6 ¼” and then back from the aileron leading edge 1/2”. Trim this covering

and mount the horn with CA or epoxy.

TIP: we suggest scuffing the horn with sandpaper where it mounts into the wing, this will

enhance the glue bond.

□6. There are 4 pushrods provided, locate the shorter ones for the aileron pushrods they

will be 2 ¼” long with a “Z” bend. Insert the Z end into the horn, the servo arm will use

the quick connector. Grind a flat surface where the quick connector will secure to the

pushrod, be careful not to grind too much material. You should barely be able to see a flat

spot if done properly.

□7. The quick connector is mounted thru the desired arm hole then finger tighten the nut

to the bottom side of the servo arm, be sure to use some thread lock on the nut and that it

moves freely, allow thread lock to fully cure. Figures 2 and 3 show detailed photos of a

properly installed servo/horn/pushrod installation.

Figure 2 Figure 3

□8. Repeat these same procedures for the other wing. Figure 4 shows a completed wing.

Figure 4

Fuselage assembly

□1. Take the fuselage and we will locate several holes and remove the covering to

expose the hole. Below are several measurements to aid in locating those holes. You may

feel with your finger or slide a warm covering iron over the area to better reveal these

holes. For all measurements below the first number is from the nose of the fuselage and

the second is from the bottom of the fuselage.

A. 11 ½” and 3 1/4” for the wing tube socket

B. 8” and 3 ½”, forward wing alignment pin

17 1/8” and 3 1/8” aft wing alignment pin.

C. 9 9/16” and ½” gear lower bolt hole

9 ¾” and 1 ¼” gear upper bolt hole

D. 3 ¾” and 3 ½” forward fuselage side

E. 23”, 26”, 28 ½”, 31 1/2”, aft fuselage side

Once located, cut the covering to expose these holes, they are for the fuselage sides. The

slot for the horizontal stabilizer is obvious at the rear of the fuselage. See figure 5.

Now is a good time to carefully cut the trailing edge of the vertical stab for elevator

clearance.

Figure 5

□2. Take both wings, the carbon fiber wing tube, (4) allen head bolts 3/8” long with

washers and put the tube in the fuse and slide both wing panels onto the tube. Cut the

covering on the wing attach points and then mark where the bolts will go into the

fuselage. Slide the wing away from the fuse and cut the covering where the wing bolts

will enter the fuse. Now attach the wings, insert the bolts and tighten, there are internal

threaded nuts and the bolts will thread into them. See figure 6.

Cut this area to

allow full elevator

movement. See

Figure 15 for

another picture

Figure 6

□3. From the leading edge forward to the motor mount we recommend removing some

covering to expose the wood for gluing the forward fuselage sides, providing a wood to

wood bond. See figure 7, this picture was taken from the nose of the fuselage. Be sure not

to remove more covering than the fuse side will cover and do not cut into the balsa wood.

Several light pressure cuts with a sharp Xacto are recommended to pierce the covering

only. Repeat for other fuse side.

Figure 7

□4. Trial fit the motor mount in place as it has to be installed before the horizontal

fuselage sides. This mount is made for the Torque 2814/820. Use the supplied 3/8” wood

screws to secure the mount to the fuselage, making sure that the mount is oriented to

provide right thrust to counter spiral slipstream effect. Locate the forward horizontal

fuselage sides and remove the covering on the aft portion where the key on the leading

edge of the wing will go. Now trial fit the part and once satisfied glue into place, Medium

or thick CA or epoxy is fine. Keep the wings attached to aid in alignment of all the

fuselage sides. NOTE: do not glue the fuselage pieces to the wing, only to the vertical

fuselage if you would like to have the wings removeable. Repeat for other fuselage side.

See figure 8.

TIP: some color schemes may necessitate that there will be a left and right part. The

mount comes unpainted, we chose to paint ours black for looks only.

Figure 8

□5. Using the same procedures as above, install the aft fuselage sides. See figures 9 and

10. NOTE: Use the trailing edge of the wing for alignment, but do not glue the fuselage

piece to the wing if you would like the wing to remain removeable.

Figure 9 Figure 10

□6. Locate the horizontal stabilizer and trial fit it into the slot. You will want to be sure it

is perpendicular to the fuselage, level with the wing and equal distance to the wing. I will

explain how we do this, but there are other methods that work. Our method, slide the

horizontal stab in the slot, there is a small key from the aft fuse sides that the front of the

horizontal will fit in to. I use a small right triangle tool and check for square to the

fuselage. If that is good, you can confirm this by measuring from the aft wing tip (not the

aileron tip) to the aft tip of the horizontal respectively. Do this to both sides and if it is

square to the fuselage, the measurements will be the same. Now place the fuselage on to a

surface and prop it up so the wing is level. View the plane from the front and rear and this

will show if it is parallel with the wing. Once this is satisfactory, use a low adhesive tape

(such as blue painters tape) and place a small strip on the horizontal stab flush to the

fuselage. This lets me know where to cut the covering (remain inside of the tape for

cutting covering) and when I place the horizontal stab back in to the slot, it will serve as

an alignment reference. Remove the horizontal stab and cut the covering. I recommend a

slow curing adhesive here such as 15 minute epoxy or thick CA, this will allow

adjustment time. Replace the horizontal stab into the slot and with the tape you should

only need to check for level with the wing. Glue in place. See figures 11, 12 and 13.

Figure 11 Figure 12

Figure 13

□7. Take the rudder and the tail wheel wire and rout a channel in the bottom forward

section of the rudder for the tail wheel wire. Be sure the wire will not interfere with

rudder movement once installed. Glue wire in place and set aside to dry. See figure 14,

this is just before seating the wire and applying glue.

Figure 14

Potential fourth

hinge, see step 10

□8. Trial fit the vertical stabilizer in the slot on the top rear portion of the fuselage.

Check alignment with horizontal stab and the fuselage. Similar techniques to the

horizontal alignment may be employed here too. Whichever the case, once it is as

desired, glue in place. Check that the vertical is flush with the trailing edge of the

fuselage and glue in place. See figure 15.

Figure 15

□9. Now remove the wood strip just behind the horizontal stab, see figure 15. Locate the

elevator and hinge it to the horizontal using the same procedures as for the ailerons in the

wing assembly. There are two hinges per elevator half. See figure 16.

□10. The rudder has 3 installed CA hinges, however a fourth hinge should be installed

¼” up from the bottom of the rudder (see figure 14). This is highly recommended to

better sustain the forces of the tail wheel during taxi. You may now attach the rudder with

thin CA. See figure 16.

Figure 16

Cut this area to

allow full elevator

movement.

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