Bavsound BMW E38 Manual de usuario
BMW E38 Subwoofer System Installation Guide:
d110.e38 for BMW 7 Series, ʼ95-ʼ01
Youʼll need:
•Bavsound tool kit (or some variety thereof - the video highlights the tools needed for
this particular installation) - http://www.bavsound.com/product/414/361/BSW-Interior-
Disassembly-Tool-Kit/
•Wire Crimpers
•Metric Wrench / Socket Set
•Tunes in the garage (your choice)
Before you Begin
•Please review and familiarize yourself completely with these instructions before
starting work on your vehicle!
•Ensure that your bass and treble settings are set to their default middle positions
before installing your new speaker upgrade. Once youʼve installed your Stage 1,
you can reset the bass and treble settings to taste. Keep in mind that we
generally recommend keeping them both very close to center as large
adjustments introduce distortion into the audio signal and will lower performance
of your system.
•Be sure and watch this video, which covers the amplifier connections on your
new Bavsound amplifier: http://vimeo.com/28744796
•And, once completed with the install, be sure and watch this video which covers
tuning the amplifier in your E38: http://vimeo.com/28722047
The Process
Weʼre going to proceed as follows:
1. Removal of factory subwoofer enclosure
2. Mounting the new amplifier
3. Power connections for the new amplifier
4. Audio inputs for the new amplifier
5. Connecting the new amplifier to the new subwoofer enclosure
6. Installing the new subwoofer enclosure
7. Tuning/testing the new amplifier
Rear Deck and Factory Subwoofer Removal:
Keep in mind this takes an experienced installer about 15 minutes. It should take you
between 30-45 minutes, depending on your experience with vehicle disassembly.
We wonʼt be reinstalling the subwoofer enclosure, so put it away in the garage
somewhere.
First remove the bottom of the rear seat by pulling upward on the front of the cushion.
There are two hooks on either side that need to be disengaged. This is super easy to
remove. (See arrows)
1. Youʼll next want to remove the back portion of the backseat. First remove the
three headrests from the seat cushion. Do this by lifting upward on each
headrest. You may find it easier to pull up on one side at a time. This seems
to work best if you donʼt want bust a vein in your forehead while trying to
remove those headrests.
2. Now locate the 10mm bolts that line the underside of the seat which secure
the cushion to the rear firewall. There are bolts on either outer side of the
cushions where the cushion meets the sides of the car. Two nuts will also
secure the arm rest portion toward the center of the seat. There is also a nut
underneath the center of each side cushion. Remove all of these.
3. Youʼll want to remove the back seat in three pieces. Start with the outer sides,
and remove the center portion lastly. Lift each piece upward and outward
towards the front of the car.
4. The seatbelts can be removed as well on the passenger side just to make
your life a bit easier. A 17mm bolt secures the seatbelt assembly. Remove
this.
Removing Interior Pieces:
Youʼll also need to remove the C-Pillars on either side of the rear windshield.
1. Using a panel removal tool or flathead screwdriver, carefully pry outward on
the top of the lighting assembly, freeing the top portion. The bottom will simply
fold out toward you once the top is free.
2. Unplug the harness going into the light by gently pulling it outward from the
assembly.
3. There are three 8mm bolts behind the light. Remove these.
4. Now, pull the actual C-Pillar toward the front of the car, being careful not to
scratch your rear window tint. You have tinted your windows, havenʼt you?
Before you get much further, go ahead and pop out the speaker grilles located on either
side of the rear deck. You can use you fingers here. Be careful and donʼt force anything.
1. Work your way around from the front of the grille (side closest to you) and around
to the sides, being careful not to break the grille. Lift upward, and then toward
you. The rear of the grille is simply slid underneath the deck.
2. Remove the two 2mm Allen bolts located underneath each grille.
Now, some E38ʼs are equipped with baby seat tie downs on the rear deck. There will be
three of them across the rear deck. If your E38 doesnʼt have these, the bolts mentioned
below will be underneath the rear deck once youʼve removed it. They will still need to be
removed.
1. To remove the tie downs, youʼll first pop off the plastic cover that sits atop the
circular rear portion of the hook. Simply use your panel removal tool or your
fingers if youʼre really tough.
2. 13mm bolts will be revealed, and youʼll need to remove them using a ratchet or
wrench.
3. Notice the four black plastic anchors that run along the width of the bottom edge
of the rear deck. (See arrows) These need to be removed. Now the rear deck is
free. Simply pull it toward you and out of the vehicle.
Factory Subwoofer Removal:
Now we just need to remove the subwoofer assembly. Can you believe that thing is so
huge? Where was the bass?
1. Remove the two 8mm bolts on either outer side of the enclosure toward the
front of the car.
2. Remove the black plastic anchor in the center of the enclosure using your
panel removal tool or flat head screwdriver.
3. On vehicles equipped with the factory baby seat tie downs, youʼll also need to
remove an additional 3 13mm bolts on the backside of the enclosure.
4. Now, lift the enclosure upward and pull it towards you. Weʼll need to unplug it
before we can remove it. The plug is on the driverʼs side underneath the
enclosure. Remove the enclosure.
Hereʼs what youʼll see with the factory subwoofer removed:
Tip: Donʼt put the deck back in just yet. We recommend installing the entire
subwoofer system and testing it out before doing so. Trust us on this one.
Trunk Disassembly and Wiring Connections:
Weʼll first need to remove the Navigation Unit and itʼs trim ring before we can remove
the side panel from the car. So, letʼs get started.
1. Using a radio removal tool (available at any auto parts store) insert one tool
into each side of the navigation unit. Pry each tool outward and slide the
navigation unit out. Unplug the harnesses and navigation antenna.
2. Now, weʼll need to remove the trim ring from around the navigation unit. Youʼll
see how itʼs hooked into the metal frame. Just pry it out from around the
frame and pull it towards you.
3. Now weʼll need to remove the top portion of the carpeted panel that was
covering the CD changer and navigation unit. Simply pry the panel from
around the navigation cage and CD changer outward. Weʼll need to unscrew
the two black plastic fasteners at this point.
4. Lift up the carpeted liner on the floor of the trunk and youʼll notice two black
plastic fasteners attaching the bottom part of the panel to the floor. Remove
these and the panel will be free to remove from the car.
Mounting your new Amplifier
Youʼll want to start by first deciding exactly where you want to mount your new amplifier.
From there, youʼll decide on appropriate paths to run your wiring.
The ideal location for the amplifier in our subwoofer system is directly in front of the
factory amplifier, where the CD Changer is located. Most vehicles do not have CD
Changers, and if you do well then itʼs time for a SoundPlicity iPhone/Android Interface!
We secure the amplifier either by Velcro strips or if you want to get creative, you can
fabricate a couple of brackets and attach it to the factory brass bracket assembly.
Conversely, you can also use zip ties to secure the amplifier to the brackets that secure
the amplifier/navigation computer.
Donʼt mount the new Bavsound amplifier until youʼve made all wiring connections and
tuned the amplifier.
Since the majority of our wiring connections take place in this same area, the install is a
breeze!
Power Connections to your New Amplifier:
*Before you make any connections, we recommend disconnecting the negative battery
terminal from the battery. This will eliminate any chance electrical damage to the
vehicle.
Power Wire (Red Wire included in your amplifier wiring kit)
•Youʼll want to run the large red wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The
battery is located on the passenger side of the trunk behind the down panel.
Loosen and remove the 10mm nut on top of the terminal that secures the actual
terminal to the battery. Put the amplifier power wire ring over the bolt, and tighten
the nut back down with the terminal on the battery. This wire will be connected to
the +12 terminal on the amplifier. Do NOT put the fuse into the fuseholder until
you have connected the other end of the wire to the amplifier. Once youʼve made
this connection, it is safe to install the included fuse into the fuse holder.
Ground Wire (Black Wire included in your amplifier wiring kit)
•The large black wire goes to a chassis ground. This essentially means metal.
In the E38, the ideal location is one of the 8mm bolts that secures the tail light
housings to the chassis on the driverʼs side. In other words, weʼll want to use an
existing factory grounding point, which will look something like this:
•Once connected at the location above, the ground wire will connect to the GND
terminal on the amplifier.
Remote Turn-On Wire: (Blue Wire included in your amplifier wiring kit)
Locate the small gauge white wire going into the factory amplifier in the largest plug.
Tap into the remote turn on wire with the included blue wire and red butt connector. Run
this to the “Turn On” input terminal of your new amplifier.
Below is a visual of how weʼll make the connections. Basically, weʼre just “Tʼing” into the
factory wire, so youʼll want to cut the wire directly in half, at a minimum of 3” away from
the factory plug.
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Otros manuales de Subwoofer de Bavsound
